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Member postings for Skarven

Here is a list of all the postings Skarven has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Is there a limit on images/albums?
28/12/2011 12:46:41
Posted by KWIL on 28/12/2011 10:46:09:
Trying to upload 5MP? Convert to JPEG and it may well go??

They were 5 MegapPixel JPEG. They loaded fine one by one.

28/12/2011 07:22:47
Hi,
I have had the same problem when trying to load several pictures in one upload.
When I loaded only one at a time it was OK. My pictures were 5MP.
I'm using Firefox, but I also tried IExplorer getting the same problem.
Thread: Lard Oil or it's modern day equvalent?
27/12/2011 06:53:46
After testing different oils, I use rapeseed oil. It cost next to nothing, does not smell, is not poisonous. And it does not have the label that almost all cutting oils have that tells you of all the bad things that can happen if you get it on your skin.
It also seems to be a quite good lubricating oil.

I have used the rapeseed oil on my mill and lathe both for aluminum, steel, cast iron and brass. I know you are supposed to cut cast iron and brass dry, but with oil it doesn't fly all over the place.
 
Here in Norway I can buy rapeseed oil for about £1 per litre. That make it even cheaper than the cutting oils that can be diluted 10 to 1. Here that cost £14 per litre
Thread: Christmas 2011
24/12/2011 10:28:59
Hi All
I let John speak for me too!
Thread: Vertical to Horizontal Mill conversion.
24/12/2011 07:53:59
A thought I had was to make a ISO32 collet for the grinders motor shaft. I have never seen a ISO32 collet, but it should be possible. Or maybe the cone isn't right for collets?
24/12/2011 07:41:21
Hi Charlie
Nice pictures. I see that you have made what I am thinking of.
I picked the grinder apart to have a look at it and it looked quite good.
The grinder is a really cheap one from Biltema that I bought for about £18 a few years ago.
It is 900W at 11000 rpm.
The gear has 12 and 37 teeth giving 3.083:1. With my mill this will for 65-3200 rpm give a range of 21-1040, which should be OK.
The motor body is centered in the gearbox by a circular flange resting against the gearbox inside of the four holes for the screws connecting the gear to the motor.
The Motor shaft has a woodruff key for the small gear. There is one ballrace bearing for the motor in the gearbox, and one on the other end of the shaft.
The bearing for the output shaft seems to be quite good, with no play in any direction.
The gears also seems to be quite good, although there is a little bit of play there. I can't imagine that this should be a problem for the intended use.
 
My first thought was to remove the motor and fan, cut the motor shaft to suitable length and fix the shaft in an ER32 collet chuck.
This seems a bit long to me, so I'm also thinking of making an adapter between the ISO30 mill shaft and the grinder motor shaft, as this will make the whole thing mch shorter and sturdier.
The gearbox is grease lubricated as is, but I wonder if a hypoid gear oil (for car rear axle) might be better. The load on this gear will of course be higher in this setup, but being little bit cautious I think you could keep it down to a factor of, let's say 2, compared to the design load.
900W at 11000 rpm = 0.78Nm
mill is 1100W at 3200 rpm = 3.27Nm
The only thing now is to make the shaft adapter and the adapter between the gear body and the quill
 
24/12/2011 07:04:16
Hi Neil,
A search for bilidowcar popped up so many strange words that your native land has to be Wales! In Norway we have many names for that bird, among them kvitlåring (whitethigh), ålekråke (eelcrow), Shags ....
20/12/2011 18:51:19
Hi Les
You weren't that far off, I was in England for Sandown Park last weekend, and might be going there end of January.
Skarven is better known as Cormorant with you. A bird with sometimes rather peculiar flying characteristics. (When it has caught a lot of fish.) I adopted that name when I started flying model aircraft
20/12/2011 14:31:57
Hi Les
The guy with the gearbox only ship to the UK, so Norway is out! But this gearbox looked really good.
 
No, I want to use the gearbox the 'right way' with the mill shaft connected to the grinders motor shaft,'input shaft', and the saw at the output shaft, where the grinding wheel is. I think the torque would be reduced to much the reverse way.
20/12/2011 04:00:57
Hi wotsit
I agree that most of the sound of these grinders comes from the gear, probably because of the rather low quality. But this will not have a major impact on the sawing operation. I would be more concerned for the quality of the bearings.
 
Ian
Yes, it would be easier, but they are also quite expensive and at least the power hacksaw has a limitation when it comes to long cuts, say 500mm. I already have a 'metal cutter' which is more like a 2200w angle grinder with a 355mm cutting wheel in a stand. The longest cut I can do with this cutter is about 140mm. With an angle gear and slitting saw I can do cuts as long as the mill table's travel, about 600mm.
 
A band saw would of course be the answer to all problems. I have one which will cut aluminum of about 2mm thickness. I think that a bandsaw that can cut, say 25mm of steel for 300mm, would be quite expensive.
Thread: Wide A Wake launch for Stuart twin
19/12/2011 19:09:07
Beautiful!
 
Is the reversing gear original on this engine, or have you made your own?
Thread: Vertical to Horizontal Mill conversion.
19/12/2011 19:01:28
Hi Coalburner
The proper right angle drives that I have found cost something like £1700 + + +, and they do not fit my mill, a 'Tongli ZX45 Super'. That price is not very far from what I payed for the mill.
 
Even if the gearbox of the grinder does not last for long, at a price of £17 I could buy a few to swap when they wear out.
I do think that they will last for a while though, because the power they are made for is 900 watts at 11000rpm input. The mill is 1100 watts at 3200 rpm, giving about 4 times the torque, and at lower speeds I can certainly overload the gear more than that.
But you do not use the full power for normal operation, so if I keep the power at let's say 500 watts it will be relatively easy on the gear.
 
I think
 
The cutting operations that I intend to use this setup for, does not have any accuracy criteria, so the question is if it is good enough to not brake the slitting saw.
 
I will have a look in MEW for the angle drive, but the gear cutting is still a bit scary for a beginner!
19/12/2011 12:37:18
Hi Ian
I guess the commercial workshop use is more intense than my hobby use of them, but they have seen quite hard work, especially when cutting steel. That is when they burn out too!
If you have a good nose, they will often give you a "smelly" warning before they start smoking!
 
I have begun using a power meter to have an indication of the load. You get a cheap one for about £10 where you can read Volts, Amps and Watts. If you look at the power from time to time when using it, you will after a while know how much you can push the machines. This is useful for all kind of machines, mills, drills, lates, grinders... This may be the reason why I don't burn them. This will also probably be kind to the gearboxes.
19/12/2011 11:28:33
Hi Hansrudolf
I intend to use the input as input. My mill has a maximum of 3200 rpm, so with 5:1 i would still get 640 rpm and that should be enough for most sawing with a 100 or 125mm saw.
I'm also installing a VFD that might give me a little bit higher rpm.
19/12/2011 08:28:01
Hi
 
Ian wrote:
Presumably the grinder input shaft is actually the motor armature spindle so if you ditch the motor you will have to engineer something to hold the gear.
 
I think it should be possible to remove the motors rotor from the shaft and then make an adapter that fits into the ISO30 shaft. Then I can use the motor bearing in the gearbox end as is, and support the 'upper end' of the shaft in the mill. I would have to sort out how to fasten the ISO30 adapter to the motor shaft. A key or maybe Loctite?
I could use the ER32 adapter with a suitable collet, but that would require a very long adapter for the grinder body. If I turn the outside of the grinder stator, I could make a simple adapter by turning one end for the quill, the other for the turned and cut grinder stator. There are so many possibilities, so this will have to lie 'working in the background' for a while. I'll be back with some pictures later on.
 
One possible solution would be to make fixture for the whole grinder with motor.
But mounted on the quill it will at least look ugly
 
Charlie:
I do not think that you will be ridiculed by some of the better engineers on this forum. I have only seen friendly and helpful responses not only to my own questions, but to all generally as well. That is why I like this forum so much.
Please put in a few pictures if you have them. To a 'want to be engineer' it is interesting to see other people's methods and solutions.
18/12/2011 19:08:03
Hi,
I have no supply of all the standard pieces of steel and Al, square and round in different dimensions ..., so I have to cut most of the pieces from large pieces of steel and Al. I use a slitting saw in the mill for this, and it works great, but I often think that the work holding would be a lot easier if I had a horizontal mill shaft for the slitting saw. I have 3 angle grinders (why?) and I have been looking at the gearbox on them to make a Vertical to Horizontal conversion for my mill.
 
These angle grinders are cheap at about £20 on special offer, and if you let them idle at full rpm for a little when they start to smell burnt insulation, they will last a long time.
I have never had a gearbox on them fail, so they must be quite good.
 
My mill has a cylindrical quill 96mm diameter at the lower end, ISO 30 shaft, and it should not be to difficult to make an adapter for the quill and shaft.
 
Has anybody tried something similar to this!
 
I know there are commercial products out there, but they cost a lot, and most of the fun is of course the making of it.

Edited By Skarven on 18/12/2011 19:24:33

Thread: The Sandown Park Model Engineer Exhibtion 2011
13/12/2011 17:43:27
I was there on Friday and again on Sunday, and I must say I have never seen anything like this exhibition. So many nice and interesting models. I also got a lot of pictures of Stewart Harts Overkrank Engine, which I intend to build some day. It was really nice!

I went home to Norway with about 30kg of new tools for my workshop, and many new ideas.

I must also say that the whole exhibition had a very friendly atmosphere, where a beginner could ask questions. Everything was fine. I'll be back next year.
Thread: Top Slide Self Act?
08/12/2011 19:41:23
I have programmed both PIC, Atmel and several other microcontrollers, and I agree with Neil. Atmel is much easier to program than the PICs. You also get a good free C-compiler for the Atmels, an for most people learning to program in C is a lot quicker.
Thread: MEW, would less be more?
07/12/2011 20:07:55
I get both the MEW and ME and although I like both, I must admit that I am more of a MEW type. I'm amazed by the ME articles and admire them, but in the end I find more lasting interest in the MEW.
 
But I do not want to wait any longer for any of them. They make me happy, just coming out of the mailbox, and I look forward to get them. As a beginner, I might find more than most in the two magazines. But I also feel that it is interesting, not only to read the things that I find interesting, but what other people with similar interest do and like.
 
Keep them coming!
Thread: How many T-Slots on a Rotary Table, 3,4,6?
06/12/2011 20:27:20
Posted by Ramon Wilson on 06/12/2011 20:08:44:
Hi Skarven,
 
What ever version you decide on I would take a good look at the table itself to see if you can modify it to fit adjustable rotary stops at some stage.

 
My R/T is in constant use and I used to use the ubiquitous felt tip pen marks to work to but now having fitted stops can't imagine being without them. They make repetitive angular moves a doddle without the constant worry of over shooting or turning the handle the wrong way as you start .
 
My table was a MES home built, the table itself fortunately having sufficient material to allow a tee slot to be cut into the periphery. I see some tables have a slot cut in for the table clamp - perhaps this can be used either by tee slotting or making expanding stops to grip into the slot.
 
Hope this is food for thought
 
Enjoy the show
 
Regards - Ramon
I realize the stops will make some machining easier, but why are there no commercially available rotary tables with this feature. It is the same situation with my lathe. It is supposed to be 'high quality ...", but why are there no stops for the feeds in X and Y.
 
What are the dimensions of your tee-slot on the periphery of the table?
 
And I will enjoy the show, The Model Engineering Exhibition is like nothing you can see in Norway.
 
Regards.
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