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Member postings for Clive Hartland

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 Next > Last >>
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
24/07/2011 15:10:26
Hello Ian, I presume it was a Cessna. I flew from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to strip called Loyangaleni in the Northern Frontier District of Kenya.
This is alongside Lake Rudolph where we fished for Nile perch.
The strip was very short and had a clump of Pandenis palms at the end and it was a bit hair raising.
I really have no idea what make of aircraft it was but assumed it was a Cessna at that time. This in the time period 1963/4
All I noticed was a lot of vee belts driving the prop from the engine shaft underneath it.
It was a low wing plane and could carry four people. That maybe describes loads of small planes? This plane was definately belt driven! I know someone will now make a joke about that.
 
Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 24/07/2011 15:11:03

Thread: Locomotive axle length- clearance between wheels and axle boxes
24/07/2011 10:19:04
This is interesting as I am making a 2-10-0 Evening Star in three and a half inch gauge and I also wondered about axle end float.
With 10 driving wheels the Evening Star has a problem getting around curves and the driving links have a lot of end float as well.
I did find some very close tolerance at the front end of the chassi but managed to clear that.
You cannot scale down and achieve all the same clearances as a full size loco.
Your clearances sound about right though Peter.
 
Clive
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
24/07/2011 10:14:42
This must be a big problem with the Cessna aircraft, I have seen the drive from the engine to the propellor where it was at least six belts driving the propellor shaft.
I did think at the time, 'What happens if a belt snaps'.
 
Clive
23/07/2011 16:36:40
I have just checked a couple of websites for the cost of linked belt and its almost triple what RDG are charging per Mtr.
I could not find any that were less than £35 per Mtr.
 
Clive
22/07/2011 08:11:35
All the reports sound very positive so i think I will replace the the 'V' belts I have at the moment with the link type, thank you all for the comments.
 
Clive
21/07/2011 08:06:37
Looking to change the drive belts on my ML10 and wonder if the link type nbelts advertised from RDG will do the job?
Has anyone used these belts and can comment.
They would save dismantling the headstock.
 
Clive
Thread: Extending X capability of KX1?
20/07/2011 09:57:36
My work was once on Plotting tables where the 'Cut and Peel' materiel was held in place by vaccuum . The table was aluminium and had numerous small holes drilled uniformly all over at about 10 to 15mm spacing. The table was at least 1Mtr square and there was never any shift of the 'Cut an Peel' materiel. It had a porous matting placed on the surface.
I have used the vaccuum method on an engraving machine on thin perspex which is difficult to cut and engrave and incidently is not flat but has undulations on its surface!
The items were line engraved and legend placed on it and then cut out as a shape.
It worked very well.
I did note that you were using an adhesive underlay but only offered the vaccuum method as a viable alternative.
The machining marks indicate that the cutter lip is picking up and and carrying a bit of plastic which is stuck on the cutter face. This is much like the build up on a lathe tool.
It might help if you use a single lip cutter as it runs cooler.
A continuous air jet can keep things cool.
 
Clive
Thread: Hex shank drills
20/07/2011 09:44:49
I have noticed that the hex. shank drills usually appear in the packs of drivers and bits in the pound shops! Quality is non existant at that price.
Why not make your own. A bit of an allen key and drilled and the shank of the drill polished and soldered into the drilled Hex. piece.
Simples, a nice home made accurately running drill. If not, try again.
 
Clive
Thread: Extending X capability of KX1?
19/07/2011 09:06:50
Have you considered a vaccuum table to hold down the styrene you are machining?
You could make a table exactly the size you require and again using pegs relocate for the next step of macining.
A good vaccuum machine would give all you all the suction you require.
The table will have to have a lot of small holes drilled in it where your workpiece sits.
I do believe these sort of vaccuum tables are available commercially.
 
Clive
Thread: Milling drawbar
18/07/2011 18:04:38
SPG Tools.com are offereing some draw bars, worth a look.
 
Clive
Thread: Toolco.co.uk
18/07/2011 17:49:01
I have just been looking at Toolco's web site where they offer a new line in Mills.
One of these the VM30 at approx. £850 looks quite interesting. Has anyone seen these machines and has anyone comments about the machine?
Are they far east origin.
 
Clive
Thread: The perfect ME Lathe
18/07/2011 17:43:45
Dream on, Dream on. No one lathe has all the desirable specification but a large bore spindle is a must for me and cam loc or stud chuck mounting.
Slotted cross slide and compatable accessories to go with it. Tail stock to be substantial and of decent quill travel.
The drive to be fully variable and the lead screw to be electronic thread count.
One more important thing is a chuck back plate pre-drilled with 60 holes for indexing which a lot of you have missed out!
 
Clive, Oh, and less than £3000 cost, dream on!
Thread: Rust and how to remove it.
16/07/2011 07:41:16
The name of the rust remover is Phospheric Acid and comes in small containers mixed into a jelly, sometimes a liquid which does not stick to the job.
A trade name is 'Naval Jelly'.
Apply and leave for a while and it will eat away any rust, remove with hot water.
 
Clive
Thread: How to clean a bandsaw
14/07/2011 14:01:57
Dave, here in the UK Kerosene and Paraffin are as expensive as veh. fuel if you can find it.!
There is a white oil that is sold in garden centers for greenhouse heaters but it is also expensive.
We settled on the white spirit because it is the cheapest and we can filter it for re-use.
Everything else of a volatile nature is too expensive for cleaning purposes.
The only thing about white spirit is it affects rubber based components and these we clean in detergent only.
The whit spirit dissolves hardened grease and even silicone grease so it is quite versatile.
 
Clive
14/07/2011 07:57:01
Buy a litre of white spirit and a couple of small brushes and if you are going to strip it down place the parts in the white spirit to soak for a few minutes. This will soften all the detritus and it can be brushed off.
To get rid of the white spirit, dip the parts in a bucket of hot water with a little washing up liquid in it and then rinse in hot water.
You can then use a hot air gun to dry the wet parts, beware of getting too close with the hot air gun.
If there are large parts to clean then use one of these high pressure water jet machines that are available.
This is our standard measure that we use for cleaning up parts in our Instrument repair shop as some of the instruments come on covered in unmentionable muck.
 
Clive
Thread: Best way to improve fit of main spindle quill in casting (long)
07/07/2011 14:14:54
Thats interesting, the head shown in the link is the same head fitted to a Maximat11 lathe.
We too had problems with being able to clamp the head tight.
When clamped and milling you could see the head working against the column.
In retrospect I think I would fit some hard nylon plugs backed up by skt drive grub screws in the clamping area. M8 sounds about right and they are easily replaced and adjusted.
Any comments on this method?
 
Clive
Thread: Motor as Dynamo/Generator
06/07/2011 07:48:44
Your best bet would be an old bicycle dynamo, they worked very well at low rpm.
I think they put out about 3volts?
 
Clive
Thread: Iron Burning
06/07/2011 07:43:07
I was told by an engineering friend of a fire in the swarf of a CNC lathe, it was cutting dry and the mass of fine turnings ignited.
I did later see the machine and all the paint around the housing was scorched!
 
Clive
Thread: Using Micrometer/Hi-Spot blue
03/07/2011 17:25:59
One item that I have found good for applying the blue is a wad of rolled up felt.
The type that the children use for making finger puppets I believe.
I roll it into a round shape about or less than 1" and then bind with string.
It never wears and stays moist and you dont get blue fingers.
further to the mode of scraping, by sliding the item being scraped across the surface carrying the blue then the lighter areas are the highest. The darker areas are the hollows.
I do not try to achieve 100% coverage by scraping, this would defeat the object of scraping anyway. The idea is to get a flat surface with some surface mottling which will retain lubrication.
Any scraping patterns are purely cosmetic and may look good but do little for the purpose of scraping.
 
Clive
Thread: Frame
01/07/2011 19:17:09
Remember, measure twice and drill once! I will not tell you what happened with mine but lets say its got eight holes full of rivets and solder!
 
Clive
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