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Member postings for Clive Hartland

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Generators in the home workshop
31/08/2011 19:11:23
Ah, Ring main and VFD its not possible so forget that idea.
It should be possible to get shielded male and female plug, have a flying lead from VFD and with female socket and a male plug on machines. Use one at a time as required.
Sorry about the mess up there.
 
Clive
31/08/2011 16:03:04
One thing about generating your own Leccie is cost, Its about 4 times what the power company charge.
The other aspect is noise from the generator, under load it will really grumble!
Outside, if its cold its a pig to start, I have been down to -18F and could hardly turn the engine over.
Allow TWICE the rating that you calculate for the load. If you say, calculate the load at 1.5Kva then buy a 3.5Kva.
A 1.5Kva will barely run a Lawnmower without getting hot!
My 1.5Kva will just run a 900W strimmer without too much load.
Apart from that and with not too much long use of the machine then it might be the only way instead of a VFD.
You could run a ring main with one VFD and just plug in the one machine you are using at a time.
 
Clive
Thread: 'Vote' on Photos in members portfolios
30/08/2011 16:17:51
I have just noticed that some of the photos I have uploaded have been given 'Votes'.
How does this work and what happens?
 
Clive
Thread: Myford S7 Spindle Nose / Chuck fitting.
30/08/2011 14:40:42
I am intrigued by the term, 'Slight Intereference fit'. Any thing that interferes with the fit of the thread on the nose and inside the chuck will be an interference!
The chuck is registered nominally by the parallel portion and then the face and rear of the chuck.
No interference is involved slight or otherwise or the system will not work.
Manufacture of the shafts may well induce a slight taper which to me is of no consequence and should be ignored, here the cleanliness of the threads internal and external is of paramount importance because the build up of crud and particles will eventually after a long time cause wear and strain. Here, I am talking a couple of decades in modelling cicumstances.
Thinking about how chucks are mounted, Myfords are simple and efficient for the size of chucks involved but bigger machines and chucks are best served by the cam lock system.
Myford machines as modelling machines have to have their chucks transferred quite often to other mounts for further operations and then back to the register on the lathe so that the job is not disturbed from its settings.
 
Clive
Thread: injector design
26/08/2011 14:45:24
Can someone explain the relationship of Injectors and the 'Ounce' rating?
They are quoted as so many ounces etc. How do you determine the rate for a certain boiler?
 
Clive
Thread: At A Push PCB Suggestions
25/08/2011 20:38:02
I remember we had a repair technique for plated through holes on PCB's. It was a kit of tubes (small) and you drilled through and inserted the tube and soldered in place.
I wonder if they are still available?
 
Clive
Thread: Removing Clarkson chuck
24/08/2011 17:54:48
Impacting the shaft with a hammer you need to rotate the shaft as you do it.
The act of hammering with the shaft in one position will 'Brinell' the bearings and forever afterwards will make a bonking noise! (No puns please)
This happened to my car once as I slid on the snow and hit the kerb with the wheel turned, whenever I went around a long sweeping bend I could feel and hear the ball bearings bouncing over the dents made by that impact!
When I changed the bearings and examined it it was very evident that the ball bearings had dented the outer ring.
The impact hammer sounds a good method but still rotate the shaft.
Clive
Thread: Drill Sharpening Jigs - Advice please.
24/08/2011 16:15:23
I wonder whether it is worthwhile sharpening drills 3mm and under. Buying in packs of five drills it is not time/cost effective to waste time sharpening them.
Bigger drills of course will be cost effective.
My drill sharpening machine is a 'Meteor' of Swiss origin, I doubt it is made today.

This will take drills from 3mm to about 20mm parallel shank, limited by the length of the groove on the bar and micrometer stop.
Below 3mm I sharpen by hand and eye, or just replace it!
 
Clive
Thread: Removing Clarkson chuck
24/08/2011 15:06:38
There is an ad on Ebay for a Raglan Mill user handbook.
If its a Morse taper soak it for a bit and try warming it very locally on the ring and try again.
Perhaps a harder wack with a copper hammer.
Perhaps make a long handled 'C' spanner to try and move the ring?
There is a cross section of a Raglan head on Google, its the first one that comes up.
 
Clive
Thread: Best Steel Type for a Toolpost
24/08/2011 14:55:50
If for modelling use i would use the EN1A, but if for serious production and continuous work then the tool steel.
15mm of M6 thread has a tensile of about 2000lb so I doubt it will strip? Its governed by the screw itself.
The EN1A will machine easier as it is free cutting with lead in the steel. It just wont weld!
 
Clive
Thread: Small Steel Boilers
23/08/2011 17:15:24
The only de-zincification of brass I ever came across was in Rifle cartridges, this usually occurs over long periods of storage.
When found the whole 'lot' are condemned.
The de-zincification causes the cases to seperate when fired and can leave the bell mouth of the case stuck in the breech.
It usually shows visually as a dark discolouration on the outside of the case but often only happens when fired.
I do believe sulphur in the water can also start de-zincification of brass parts.
 
Clive
Thread: Nemetts 15cc engine
23/08/2011 15:00:30
I wonder if there would be interest in the model engineer fraternity for a project to make an engine from stock bar and square ally?
Something easily machined and minimum set ups, fabricated crankshaft etc.
Some of the designs I have seen are out dated and look old fashioned.
Has anyone any good designs to offer?
 
Clive
Thread: Old Oxygen Bottles Use
23/08/2011 14:55:00
Some years back I used to buy Nitrogen to purge the optical instruments and we had to set up a rental system and then we payed just for the gas. Empty bottle and money for the full bottle.
Now I understand that if you have Oxy/Acet. kit you have to have special storage facilities and again it is a rental system.
The storage facilities are made to be remote from working spaces and free to air so that gas escapes are dissapated without danger. I also believe the Fire Brigade do a check and keep record of the facility in case of an incident. It may not be you but an adjacent place that causes the problem.
Again BOC would want a contract and their bottles have a colour coded test plate attached around the collar which identifies their bottles and they will only replace their own kit.
I dont think that you will be able to use it in a domestic situation such as a house garage or garden shed as there are regulations existing about such things.
Beware H&S from the Council!
 
Regarding a good use for the Oxy. bottle is to turn it into a safe. Cut a groove inside the edge and make a lid that is below the edge so it cannot be levered out. Find a good five or even six lever lock and make a three stud lock to fit the groove in the body.
I have done this, I used the last 20" from the bottom and drilled through the base to fix it to a wall or floor.
Other than that I cannot think of any other use at all!
 
Clive
Thread: Plumber's grease
23/08/2011 14:30:01
PTFE is an interesting lubricant, it is what I call, 'Gap Filling'.
It replaces dirt and fills the microscopic pores of the metal and ensures permanent lubrication.
It is available suspended in a thin oil and as a grease.
The name TRI-Flow is the name it is sold under.
I have often used it when cleaning and lubricating guns and a later inspection shows it has wicked out the dirt from joints and seams.
I have also used it in an engine as an additive and it quietens it down and it seems to run 'Freer'.
Perhaps a minute application of ptfe might be a good way to go!
 
Clive
21/08/2011 21:29:42
Someone once told me that the best oil is made from the jaws of Porpoises?
Myself, I use a three pack of oil graded by colour and viscosity which has always proved to be very good when I have used it on clocks and camera shutter delays.
 
Clive
Thread: end mills, how many flutes?
21/08/2011 21:25:44
Perhaps I drive them too hard, I now use a smaller dia. cutter first and then follow with the right size so problem solved.
I have a selection of 3 flute carbide cutters and they have slow helix flutes and I find these superior to the HSS cutters for most of what I do as they will cut much tougher steel than the HSS cutters.
They cost more and are because of the three flutes harder to re-grind but I have made collets with special markings for use on the Worden which does a good job on them with the diamond wheel.
 
Clive
Thread: Plumber's grease
21/08/2011 16:27:22
Some of this Plumbers grease is Silicone based, so bear that in mind.
Some of the older stuff might be Lithium based.
I think I would go for a modern grease such as KWIL's suggestion.
 
Clive
Thread: end mills, how many flutes?
21/08/2011 16:18:05
This all depends on what you are cutting, side cutting or slots.
Two flutes will cut just fine but if cutting slots then it will sometimes cut oversize. With four or more flutes the cuts are balanced on both sides of the cut and it does give a better finish.
most cutters now have 3deg. clearance on the cutting lip so they are adequate for most materiels.
Carbon steel endmills must be a rarity now as with CNC grinding High Speed steel is the norm.
Carbide endmills with 3 flutes give a very good finish but unless you are into production scales then not worth it.
Stick to high Speed steel cutters with 4 flutes and hold 2 flute cutters if you want to plunge cut.
 
Clive
Thread: Turning
18/08/2011 20:46:34
Just had a look at Masiemore (Bees) and they have egg manipulating tools. Stainless steel at £11.50.
 
Clive
18/08/2011 20:43:16
Mark, Thornes are offering a few tools for egg manipulation and they seem reasonably priced, but if the sizing is not right then you should try to make your own!
I think the welding wire (stainless steel) is 0.8mm dia.
I dont think you can heat treat the stainless steel to work on it but I have at times using two abrasive stones face to face with the wire inbetween reduced the dia.
(This was for making 'Prickers' for diesel engine injectors)
All you can do is have a try at it.
 
Clive
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