Here is a list of all the postings Daniel Robinson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: On/off at the top with red green lights. What edge finder I? |
23/03/2019 19:46:01 |
Thanks Guys, I will get another battery and give is another bash. |
23/03/2019 17:28:25 |
HI Michael, Thanks for pitching in. you got me thinking and I have found the lights are confusing. On the one side is a ground hard stop of 12mm diameter. The other side is the plunger that has a travel of 2mm. the battery could be on its last legs (4SRR44 Photo batter 6.2V silver oxide) but still measures 6.2v output. ….the lights were working and now they are not…. Bugger Edited By Daniel Robinson on 23/03/2019 17:51:31 |
23/03/2019 17:07:23 |
Not a sausage. I even opened it up and there is nothing to hint as to what it is. It’s not “Heath Robinson” so I can only think that it is commercial but from who is anyone’s guess hence coming to the fountain of all knowledge. |
23/03/2019 11:38:06 |
you Guys are fast plus it was a bit of a senior moment.... Pics |
23/03/2019 10:26:55 |
The engineering company was predominately Bridgeport CNC and this was in a cupboard that was being cleared. The on/off switch is on the top, red green lights signal the depression of a switch on the side of the device. I know it must be some kind of edge finder but does anyone know if it is Bridgeport or what machine it is for? Any help greatly appreciated. |
Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill |
16/04/2017 18:05:31 |
Hi Mark, Sorry for the late reply... I have thought of doing something similar and have made some notes as to potential issue that I could run in to. Malleability of steel vs Iron and wall thickness - Steel in cheaper but will bend and buckle if wall thickness is not big enough. Your Idea of using 15mm plate means that it could practically be solid which is excellent but heavy Male and female centre grooves top and bottom of the ring. At 14inches I’m going to have to find someone with a really big lathe or construct a fly cutter / boring head that can do that kind of diameter… even my 12inch rotary table is too small to do any kind of exterior work…. Extended bolts or tapping the riser? I am thinking about tapping the riser as it would take a lot of tension off extended bolts. Again this is down to malleability of the bolt material and riser and would involve milling the sides of the ring to accommodate the bolts. It could be more trouble than it’s worth but I think that this is what this chap is doing on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyT2VUvgcSo&t=33s Dan |
15/04/2017 14:20:01 |
So, a bit of a long shot, I have a mk II and i'm looking for a riser block of any size, or plans so that I can make one.... I see on ebay that there is a generic riser block being manufactured in the US but the cost of shipping is near to £1K. Also open to bright ideas Dan
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Thread: Repairing iron pulley wheel damage |
21/01/2017 23:16:57 |
Hi Dave, That is the same situation I found myself in, a 1930’s machine that I could not replace parts on so it was fix or…. Cast a new one? I was prepared to go the extra mile as the saw is really special. The TIG welder was expensive plus the Argon and regulators. All in I could have cast a new one but then that would have been a one off and I would not have got to play with a new toy. I used a 1.6mm Thoriated (Red) tungsten as the edge was 5-6mm thick and I didn’t want to melt holes. The wire was bought off eBay. 1.2mm x 10m 18 SWG Nickel 55 Wire TIG Weld Cast Iron Repair and the forums kept touting that you could use it cold but my gut was telling me to pre heat and cool slowly. The welding bit was more like soldering as the wire just evaporated. I am used to dabbing the rod into a crater but the rod never made it so I would pull back and the arc would be lost. Starting again only left porous holes. I was using 45amps and this could have been too high but any lower and I get the feeling that the iron would not have melted as you can see the weld line is fine and not over exaggerated. Where are you located, if your local we might be able to work something out? Send me a PM |
21/01/2017 20:56:38 |
I can see that TIG is going to take me a while to get used to and all the knobs and switches are confusing let alone the multitude of types of Tungsten rod for differing material. I even had a go at aluminium the other day for an axle extension to a go kart. Not the clearest picture but it was easier that I imagined it would be.
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21/01/2017 20:51:24 |
Having looked at a number of posts and using a bit of common sense... I looked to heating the part to remove the Possibility of thermal shock using a BBQ grate: once toasty and warm I attempted the weld with nickel 55 welding wire: the out side was a bit of a shocker as the test welding I had done was on steel and the torch behaved as expected but on iron and with the nickel wire, the wire just evaporated and I pulled away from the wheel. that is why the weld looks a bit 'bitty'. The inner weld went a little better but still uneven: |
21/01/2017 20:43:15 |
So I have been busy but bought myself one of these: they have both good and bad reviews, but bought from a UK reseller incase of issues and delivered to the door. then set about welding the chip back in place. I have not used TIG before but used MIG for many years. preparation of the surface and held in place with the bore head. |
Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill |
13/11/2016 18:11:24 |
I will load the tutorial and take a couple of pic's that is the wiring for my garage tomorrow. always interested to hear another view but if its working and and someone tells you otherwise you have to question... Why? Dan
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13/11/2016 18:07:34 |
Hi Alan / Murray So it looks like I'm running dumb luck.... or my bed motor is insignificant to affect the VFD control program... However saying that it has been going for 3 1/2 years and through a mag contactor for the lathe (Chipmaster 3hp) and MidSaw 36" throat with blade welder again 3hp.It also powers the thickness planer, spindle moulder, table saw and pillar drill but never at the same time as I don’t have that many hands. Nowhere in the programming matches the VFD to any particular motor so adding another motor independently would only present additional load (amps) which would be the same if I was to try to take a massive bite out of a lump of steel. Again I have over rated the Invertor by 2.5KW so again could be “getting away with it” but measuring it from an output perspective and the power is constant and the two motors work on the machine independently or together. Dan |
13/11/2016 17:40:26 |
Hi Murray, You know I have this working… so saying it doesn’t work doesn’t make a great deal of sense. Let’s try to understand where our views differ. I am presenting to the VFD a single source, milling machine, the same as I would wire this into a 3 phase supply if I had one. Can you explain switching out motors as I think this is key? Dan |
13/11/2016 13:21:16 |
Ah, just realised why you are thinking that I am using the frequency controller… the picture above came from a tutorial guide I have on the inverter… If you are interested I have the complete guide which shows you how to program it….. |
13/11/2016 13:06:53 |
Hi Alan, There are no dumb questions when it comes to learning and investigations of new techniques as it makes the one being questioned, re-affirm their beliefs on how something works. So an inverter is a box of interdependent functions:
I am using the power converter but NOT the frequency controller. The output of the controller is three phase and as I’m not playing with the frequency controller it outputs 50Hz which is the mains power frequency. I then plug this into the back of the machine as the manufacturer intended (plus or minus the magnetic contactor) which then goes into the distribution box to supply all the motors. I have left magnetic contactors in some machines as they have been used as distribution boxes and to unpick that is time consuming and will mean more cash spent on a solution rather than having fun making something. The machine has Mechanical Variable speed through belt and pulley gearing and reverse through an electro-mechanical switch which reverses the polarity of two phases to the main spindle which I’m more than happy with. Be warned that there are situations that can cause issues. I have a MidSaw that has a transformer in it for blade welding. Although the motor was converted for 220v and will run happily on the inverter the transformer relies on 415v to run the blade welder so the solution was to put an additional transformer which takes the 220v three phase and out puts 415v three phase.. had to sell a kidney for that. Dan |
13/11/2016 10:22:00 |
Hi Alan, Don’t get me wrong with my advice: I’m cheap to the extreme! What you describe above by having a slave motor is the most robust and effective method of delivering 3 phase but I found sourcing a 7KW motor a little tricky (Beaver main motor is 5KW + overhead for starting 1KW + little bit for additional motors run at the same time). I even begged next door If I could take a feed from their house (your next door neighbour is out of phase with your supply so combined will give you 3 phase). The inverters use a pulse width modulator (digital) to create the analog sine wave in three HT lines. If used at full frequency (50hz) then this is just giving power to the machine to the rated value of the inverter, in my case 7.5KW This means that you can run as many motors or machines with many motors from a single device. You run into problems when you start to vary the frequency. As previously stated the magnetic contactor needs a stable frequency to maintain contact otherwise it “chatters’ at the frequency of input. This is why, when you add a VFD to a machine you remove the contactor and rely on the VFD to make the machine safe in the event of power loss. Also varying the frequency will affect the speed of all motors attached to the machine hence having a VFD for each motor which gets hellishly expensive. Coming back to your slave motor, the reliability is unquestioning, unless you use an under rated motor and try and draw too much current through it and you get lots of smoke… small fire. Inverters have a lifespan… they will fail…. They are made in china (quality is variable) and are cheap at the moment, ebay 7.5kw inverter £200. Dan |
13/11/2016 08:50:56 |
Remember when the machine was built there is only one supply to it. There is a switch board inside the “cupboard” on the side of the machine to distribute power to the other motors. Dan |
13/11/2016 08:43:40 |
Hi Rob, You CAN run multiple motors off 1 VFD if you do not use the variable frequency function. The picture below shows the two layers of function within the invertor I bought. The first and the most important is the power. Single phase in – three phase out The next level (top small green chock block) is the remote or variable frequency function which I do not use and rely on the belt speeds of the machine. There is a call for VFD and I understand its beneficial uses but I really don’t have the money and the machine still has variable speeds as they were designed into it when it was built. I looked at all the options with transformers, inverters and converters. The cheapest option for me was an inverter at £200. |
Thread: Scary stuff you can buy on the net |
12/11/2016 18:22:30 |
249 reviews.... I havent laughed so hard! "When Gerard, my husband of thirty eight years, questioned my excessive use of Barrettine's Methylated Spirit, I told him that It's the most effective way to rid one's calligraphy brush of stubborn Indian Ink. However, if truth be known, the consumption of Barrettine is the ONLY effective relief I have found from this utterly nightmarish sham of a marriage. If only I could leave my husband and marry a 6ft bottle of Barrettine."
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