Member postings for Jon

Great price that Murray, Korloy are good tips so is the blade holder a bargain.
Have same tips and two tool holders from a global class producers both dig in or bind up no warning coolant or not often scrapping the job or breaking the tool and tip.

Have think 9 part off tools all quality along the lines of Iscar, Seco etc. 2.2mm MGMT first point of call up to 35mm dia, face off, turn, groove and part with them.

1/4"BSP X 7.29mm deep - 11.5 bore blind sealing face critical.
Then found after traversing away and making a thread cutter up, fine there its using the thing right pain getting back to the start point in low gear over riding the torque by hand. Always a chance if selected mid range to do so then re selected a low range wouldnt line up exact.

Normally at 80 rpm i can stop within 0.3mm bottoming out around 19 tpi to 1.5mm pitch. Rotate chuck rest of the way to zero less than 1/2 a rev.

The only way traversing out would work is if cutting metric on a metric lathe where by can just hit the screw feed lever at any position within reason. Imperial cutting imperial have to line up exactly as well so cant just hit the traverse on or in between 1-8.

Castings come from the same place and sent to a couple of producers to similar spec.

Personally i would beef the floor up if only in the area its going to sit.

Looks a good price on your first link ideal to learn on. Has many better features and a better layout.
However its flimsy like the rest, will do the jobs - eventually if times not a concern. Budget in R8 collets as well.

Other concern vice height, job height, cutters used all take up head height. More so when a drill chuck is fitted and ER collets.
Assume a shallow vice, base of vice job would sit would be 1 to 1 1/2" from bed straight away. Less so if sat it up higher to machine the sides out, could lose at this point 4" straight away.
Drill chuck will take 108mm, 10mm drill another 92mm fully sat in chuck theres another 8"
So far were up to 12" (305mm) check max travel from bed!

Only other problem can see is in your link, the length of the bed looks too long and thin off a small foot print. Will bow visually.

The more the head height is upwards will develop more runout and or flex/chatter.

Almost there but can have a serious inbalance even if the jaws are in the correct positions/slots when you dont start at number 1.

Assuming you know which jaw goes in to which slot, all mine are hard marked by factory, soft jaws marked 1,2 or 3. In the chuck theres usually a marking 1 2 or 3.
At one time i probably removed jaws 8 times a day, takes about 3 mins.

Best way put all jaws in correct slots and push in.
Scroll anti clockwise until Number 1 drops down, keep pressure on all 3 jaws by pushing in whilst scrolling this time clockwise.
Check is wind in see if jaws meet equal.

If find theres runout now swap the jaws around and hard mark the things and the chuck wont go wrong its real easy.

Nice setup for working on the TVR.

I just come off the cross slide 55 degree dovetails and clamp. Rear tool post fits straight on top for opposite hand tools rarely use it.

Clogs seriously should be able to wazz through most steels even the tougher types, titanium 5, brass real easy. If you can do aluminium 6082 you will part anything to 6" dia listen to the tone coolant or not makes little or no difference. As above i rarely use the rear tool post on a similar M300 except for small scale production.
Your Dickson is better than mine though it did have one when i bought the lathe. Problem will be the tools and or the tips used.

Having been there and not wanting to fork out severe dosh i had a cnc setter operator give me a load of tools for jobs done for him, what a revelation no more struggling plough straight in.
General sub 35mm dia i use MGMT tips 2.2 wide, great for turning as well, chosse the right grade and quality brand not some shops brand.
Larger diameters i use 32mm x 3 thick blades in a proper holder, leave little to stick out, cut as much as bottoms out then keep feeding out the blade and so on. Only got 2 blades left gave an Iscar away ones an Arno XLCON 3203 good for 6" dia. The other is Tuetatec TGB 32-3 using same tips on sub 35 dia Iscar DGN 2202J though will wear on steels quick, brilliant for aluminiums, brass, plastics and titanium grade 5.
Buy once stomach the price, forget it and never look back.

I do it all the time straight in no faffing about, just hit the foot brake when near the end and rotate by hand manually.

Saying that only last week had to cut a pitch and normal proper tipped cutters were too big for the hole. Ground up for opposite hand an hss bit to power out. Heres the problem i have to leave engaged and power in close then manually in a low gear and over coming the torque get the cutter at the right start point, right pain never again abandoned the job and done it conventionally knowing exactly where the stop point is.
Come to think of it sure it was 19 tpi BSP

As Tim but will add they are easy to turn down unless close to the cutting edge. Shanks are not hardened but will be very near the end.

Turned quite a few MT3 - MT5 down always get a good finish and accurate. If it has cut tapered sand it to size.

Tangs are not hardened can be easily bent on some.

Unless drilling close to the file it may be hard there the rest is soft.

Dare say these sellers are not operating by the current law (breaking it) and selling what otherwise would be redundant stock.

Getting a explosive licence near on impossible for non business, the paper work, checks etc you just dont want to know even 16 years ago.

Tried every dye i could get hold of 15 years ago from Quink to fabric dyes, no luck. Ended up finding a supplier to anodisers over Leicester and had the same powder sent.
This was at the time 4 articles worldwide on anodising, all told porkies by either omitting key areas to blatant lies. There is a lot more write ups these last 10 years with kits available.

Different aluminum grades will yield different colours.

Depends what you want to do theres three types of anodising.
Chromic is just cosmetic wont last at all if touched and wafer thin.
Sulphuric the most common, lasts and a far better depth to the colour.
Hard anodising is sulphuric Type 3 thicker penetration and extarnal gain. Colours will look rather different and i have only ever achieved this twice.

Have seen a number of results from 6 people using those home brew kits, so far i have not seen a presentable item. In fact got one here but a picture wouldnt do it justice as it wont pick out the blemishes, blue tint and almost black patches. This is with simple items turned and spin polished, if used bead blast would look hell of a lot different like coarse matt.
I use 60/120 grit for bead blasting items but specify to a professional i want it satin to a sheen and know what theyre doing being the only one to date found. Others 'Will' scrap the part 9 out of every 10 items guaranteed.

They have been around for 37 years to my knowledge the link above.
Tried carborundum nosing from work bolted to cutter, didnt work same as revolving the cylinder in a lathe you have no relief just ok for touch ups.

Proper job on a Suffolk Colt 14" in 1989 was £35 ex works and self fit etc.

I used to occasonally get a 5 1/4" chuck to unscrew if i didnt put a cut on in normal direction first. Likwise starting up in reverse. Very rarely had chuck unscrew turning opposite direction and a cut on.
Right pain to get off after usually lock solid requring other means to undo.

With variable speed you would be using a soft start.

The only way i could turn ultra hard Perkins valves down on an ML7 was to use Kenametal NR 48R K68 inserts running in excess of 1000rpm 1phase 1hp motor.
These are radiused tips so you would turn what you can leaving minimal to touch up at the end with another cutter.

Marking outs only as good as your eye, certainly if centre punching plus then its only as good as the position put the punch then hit. Will look different in various lighting change the angle you will notice then.

Easy way out pick up off the two holes just touch inner edge with a cutter if dont have any other means. Zero hand wheel dial then count the revs or distance and do same again to other hole. Split the difference.

Prefer 3, 4, 5 or 6 flutes for everything less torqueing off using 2 flute for slots if at all any. Can go like an S shape!
Can drill with milling cutters i do it every day but need to be centre cutting. If slots not through may pay to drill a smaller hole at or nea end of the slot, aids debris escape plus can them mill the opposite direction without having to feed it all the way back doing nothing.

Prepare to make mistakes, weve all been there no shame.

Post Offices and Couriers do my fruit in the last 7 years. All in the interest of national security apparently.
Most of these couriers havent even a category for engineering.
Always a sigh at post office, "whats in it" every time even though they know me as a regular, greet with an abrupt "aluminium".

The main couriers and post office scan all items been going on for years and acts as Customs for export. Anything of interest package pulled for closer inspection and could take 5 months to then get to destination purposefully broken, has happened many times.

Even better are the main global couriers delivering items that the UK arm will not! ie DPD, TNT, UPS just to name three. Hows that work what that means is items they delivered i would not be able to send via UK courier.

Have batterys delivered at least once a month, oils, inflammables, weapons you name it.

Spot on Bill its happened and been legislated in other areas already going back 11 years.

Problem is the vocal ones pushing it not having a clue in to its implications.
With the increase in net and online sales there will be very very few shops in the future, therefore no one will be able to buy any tool for daily personal use no even cutlery.
Of course a tradesman working or driving/passing by a public place could get done for carrying an offensive weapon, theres no end to it.

Beavered away this morning till about 1pm, opened the door and a gush of warm air hit me.

Its always at least 5 degrees colder in my man cave all year round.
Winter can have a large 2kw oil filled heater and a Calor gas on 1bar for 3hrs. Open the door and have a warm by 11am.

Also pillar files.

All files went down the pan by 2003 same with hacksaw blades.

Buy once buy the best Vallorbe however much it may hurt.

Bahco are made in Portugal for many years avoid the integral plastic handled ones they will be worn in half a morning.

I havent got an EMC filter on my Inverter used daily last 8 years.
Do run screened cable from inverter to the Isolator and then through all the contactors and switchgear, rarely a problem for more than 15 seconds.

The only thing it may upset is certain stations on DAB radio 1 in every 100 days or so.

Did buy a Mitsubishi VFD last year to run a 3hp motor at 220v, still to wire in etc range £270-£340 odd. EMC filter was sub £24.

Spot on John BA is a common thread still used to this day in traditional lock making and other areas. The other is UNF.

Bridles 2 off 6BA and one 7BA

BA and UNF is still used by a well known Scottish gunmaker producing the round action.

Lock in question was very likeley made very very locally by Stanton, ex workers setup in Whitmore Reans Wolverhampton then two of them set up in Bilbrook 74 ish carrying on the traditional methods to 2010 as the only tradition lock makers to the trade.

.1695" they usually wear on the peaks of the threads so will measure under!
No 8 UNF 36 TPI effective dia .1697"
2BA near on 35 TPI
Since Stanton was producing large quantities they wouldnt have put a gun thread in, taps would have been purchased and repeatable for the actioners to make the said screw. There again this may have been the change over period to standardise

Have a look inside the lock there will be a makers stamping unless it was going to a big name house like H&H etc stamping on each lock.

Even better post a piccy up, should be able to tell who has done any work.

Edited By Jon on 08/07/2018 23:21:51