Member postings for AdrianR

I dont know what they are like but I came across them in a back issue of MEW the other day. Fenland Castings

Thanks for the advise. I have always bought reasonably priced tools, then if I use them enough to break/wear them out think about buying a better quality ones. It sounds like CS will be fine for me at the moment, I will only work on brass, mild steel and CI.

I have never looked at the tap and die company, I will give it the once over. The reasons I picked TT were I have used them before and they offer a loose set of taps/dies. I have a draw full of tap and die holders, don't need any more.

Up to now I have used inherited imperial taps and dies, all of which just work perfectly.

Having just wasted £15 on a set of metric cheesium which went blunt after 3 turns in mild steel. (I know I should not have bought them but i wanted to make some T nuts to get started on my mill)

I am now looking at getting some reasonable metric taps and dies, and recently have been reading Tubal Cain's book about hardening and tempering. In that he says that Carbon steel can be harder than HSS if kept cool. Hand cutting a thread at most will only get warm, so what would be better, CS or HSS?

Looking at Tracy Tools I can get a loose set of CS taps for £20 or £40 for the HSS, any thoughts?

My lathe specifies SAE 20 ISO 68 I bought Morris Liquimatic No 6 ISO 68 Hydraulic Oil

What you need to avoid is any oil containing zinc (ZDDP) or sulphur as they attack copper based alloys.

Also avoid engine oils, they contain detergents that keep the muck in suspension so the filter can remove it. On a lathe you dont have a pumped filter so you want the muck to settle out.

My late mother had the opposite problem of very swollen feet. She had some shoes made for her. I think she found the person thorough the local health care.

I guess she would not like to do Internet shopping. Google turned up **LINK**

I have just tried citric acid to clean up some rusty tool makers clamps, very impressed with the result. Actually it was Ecover toilet cleaner 1:4 with hot water.

I after scrubbing I soaked them in a solution of sodium bicarbonate to neutralise any remaining acid and then a light oil.

I finally finished levelling my Warco BH600 the hard way with shims under the pedestal, and made my first bits of curly steel.

Seeing the shield test above reminds me that I need to refit the chuck guard that was removed by the previous owner.

I took it that the brass wheel is the fly wheel and is geared up from the crank to give enough momentum.

On the cross head on the opposite side from the fly wheel is what looks like a mounting for another rod. It looks like it could be in line with the lever. Could there be a rod missing that operated the lever?

Where is the valve gear?

I would so love to take it apart.

Has anyone else noted the irony of a door knob engine on the same day as a post about door knob collars?

The picture I saw wires were red, black and green/yellow which I would assume are plus, minus and earth

Adrian

FYI

A feature of google, if you start a search with site:sitename it will return only results from that sitename. So search for

site:www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums stress relieving steel

gives you all the posts about stress relieving. See

I am not saying it is this, but...

If you google for H2-25-4100 you find "WG17082104 H2-25-4100"

Google for WG17082104 and you find "CARL LEWIS TREADMILL MODEL - MOT566 *** MNF; 2007/01 MOTOR P.M.D.C. POWER 1.75HP VOLTAGE 180VDC MAX SPEED 4400RPM"

The images of the PremierFit motor show quite thin wires, look to be about 1.5mm sq. which suggests high voltage low current.

I was intrigued by one company who sell silvering powder made to an old family recipe from real antique silver. I found this page that explains Displacement plating

Sorry the OP was confusing, I had already identified the slots as M10 as per Howard Hall's Data book i.e. 12mm wide etc.

I am impressed JasonB can remember the make, it is a BMD-16 from Engineers Toolroom.

I may just have to be pragmatic. Having forgotten to buy M10 studding in Doncaster and having 30m of M8 studding, I guess I will tap them M8.

Yesterday was my first time at Doncaster. I was impressed by both the turnout and the number of trade stands, but I was disappointed that only Chester turned up. I am just glad I decided to buy second hand. When I retired I had planned go to Doncaster and buy new.

Shame I missed the Bentley engine, I am sure I looked every where.

There was a thread recently talking about bandsaws, the Aldi one had a good review

Hmm, glad I asked, some dam good ideas here, it has got me thinking.

I have an old Abwood vice, it is about as wide as the table and 1/2 as long, very well built but wont take M10. So M8s for that a few other small sizes for specials and a full set in M10 sounds like a plan.

Multiple holes sounds good too

The mill I have has M10 T nut slots, but the mill is quite small. The table is only 150mm wide with three slots. M10 seems a bit of over kill and large, I am wondering if I should make M10 nuts but with M8 studs.

Any thoughts?

Adrian

Sounds like good advise, I will avoid them til I know I have three hands and can juggle blindfold.

I do like the idea of Clarkson, I have an ER, if I dont get on with them maybe I will make a Clarkson set, that would be good turning practice if nothing else.

I am looking for my first milling cutters and have just seen that there are cutters that are double ended. It seems like a good idea a bit like sharpening your pencil both ends.

Are they worth getting? do they need something special to hold them? ie not ER

Adrian