Member postings for AdrianR

Jack sockets will work OK if you get the gold plated sockets and plugs. What I would use would be gold plated phono plugs.

Hi Windy,

I have a BH600 and it is exactly the same in high gears. I only recently got it so don't know what it used to be like, but I assumed it is normal for a capacitor start.

Please let me know if your new start capacitor helps.

Adrian

Showed my wife the picture, didn't notice the engine just the cat. She is an ex Harley riding hells angle who restored motor bikes and magnetos. How time changes us.

I just googled it, it seems complicated, all depending on what type of stainless steel it is. **LINK**

**LINK**

Sounds like give it a try, but quench it quickly.

Ron

Here is a link to 100K linear pots

Ah I think I finally understand the G and M. G is solid and M is sintered so is rougher. The ones for Aluminium are polished to make them even smoother. Is that right?

Edited By AdrianR on 04/06/2019 18:49:57

When I got the lathe it came with a Glanze S10K SCLCR06 boring bar.

It has a round shaft with two flats, that when clamped give a negative rake of 13 degrees. I just want to check I am on the right track.

I would mount this with the very tip at centre height?

Also would it be OK to machine Aluminium with a negative rake?

Adrian

Yesterday, I finally made my mind up about buying a new regulator and hose for an old Sievert torch. Immediately after placing the order I do my daily check of the classifieds and see a Sievert blowtorch, regulator and tank for sale not too far from me, Grrrr.

In the workshop whilst sorting my dads old stuff, I was thinking about making cover to catch the swarf out of damp proof course I have. I find pop rivets, aluminium sheet off cut, and a magnetic door catch. I then even found a 1/8" drill for the pop rivets and some washers that fit. I now have a very nifty swarf catcher.

Then later just after reading about Myfordboy's flywheels being made from ZnAl which I had never considered as a weighty material. My wife walks in with a large wheel balancing weight which has ZnAl cast into the side.

If the controllers are driving separate motors which are effectively mechanically connected via the rails does it matter much if there is a small miss match. It just means one motor will work slightly harder than the other till it reaches full speed.

Dual gang potentiometers are the way to go, if you want to use separate controllers.

If you ever need more controllers you can also get modular potentiometers which can have about 8 on one shaft.

Adrian

ISO 68 way oil on my larger lathe and Mill, ISO 32 hydraulic on they Myford ML2 as the oil can is never far from hand with plain bearings.

I see, I wonder how it is used

I bought the T37 type 10 years ago from Chronos. It was called a Soba MX90 and works very well. I dont know if the parting blade will be the same type as I have, but it is excellent. It is the type with an inverted V on top and does not need top grinding. In fact today I was trying to find where to buy another one of the blades to make a parting tool for my Warco 600G

Thanks Tim, I have another one of those that is twice as big but is not identical, the numbers go up twice as high.

I checked mine, it is accurate within 1/2 thou which is impressive as it has been in the bottom of a bits box for ages.

Wish I knew how it worked, an indicator like that would be great for setting lathe tool height.

Any idea what this could be for?

The picture does not show it, but the crescent end, has been sharpened in the curve.

Going through more of my inheritance I discovered an odd looking little tool called "The Unique" Pat No 234947/11. I could not find the original patent but found a related one that mentioned it and what it was for.

Came as a great surprise that it was a 0 - 15 thou DTI to fit on a scriber block.

?

You could also consider a tangential tool holder. e.g. The Diamond tool holder from Eccentric. They are available in the UK too. Or there are a number of designs to make your own. The advantage is you only have one face to sharpen, which would be a lot easier with a diamond hand lap.

I have a bench one, I have always wanted a floor one. I fitted a cross slide vice, and there is not enough height if it is on the table, so has to go on the base. Lifting the head is a right pain when I need extra height.

Hmm, slow flute for brass now that tickles a memory. Well if nothing else I have some nice drills for all the brass I bought today.