Member postings for AdrianR

After silver soldering our boxes and ashtrays from gilding metal at school, we used a handful of damp crushed pumice and rub the scale off. For corners either an orange stick or lollypop stick to push the pumice around.

I just checked on ebay, you can get pumice quite cheaply.

Adrian

Similar but different Making Armstong Guns Lots of singed men, often close enough to light their fags from the molten iron.

I always wondered about how the wiring of barrels was done, now I know.

If you do need to hit it I think using the smallest hammer possible is best. To shift the taper you are not trying to force the tapper out, you are trying to use a localised shock wave to free the taper.

I keep my tapers and sockets clean and dry. I don't tighten the draw bar, just nip it up. If I have to, I use a 2oz hammer to give a small fast tap.

One day I will make a captive draw bar.

I saw this a couple of days ago. I so wished for a time machine to go back to those days. I feel I was born in the wrong generation.

I would love to have an as new student.

OK it is not Android or iPad but the principle is the same. Flash is very vulnerable to hacks and browsers have steadily been blocking access to to protect you.

On my PC I only use chrome browser which out of the box blocks Flash, but it is simple to enable. When you see the little grey box saying flash is not installed, right click on the padlock icon next to the URL. You will then get the option to enable Flash. Then refresh the page.

If you dont get the option you will need to enable Flash first in Chrome's settings, there are guides on google how to do it.

I assume Chrome will work the same on Android

Edited By AdrianR on 20/04/2020 08:12:59

I have always belied if it is not hard it is not worth doing. I used to think I was an OK engineer, now I know I am not. Since I retired and started doing more ME i think I have gone backwards, but every mountain I climb, turns out to be but a foot hill. But by eck the view is grand.

Adrian

Hi,

I just found this info about 4 and 6 point drill geometries

**LINK**

If like me you are unsure about drill facets this is good reading.

Adrian

Hi,

I am thinking of getting a CNC mill, but from what I can see you can only drive them via gcode etc.

I have tried googling for this, but to no definitive answer.

I was wondering if anyone had connected rotary encoders with handwheels to the CNC controller. Thus creating a mill by wire. That way I could still mill by hand.

Adrian

I love this site, no matter what question you have you will find someone who has asked the question before. I was just about to post my appreciation, then I saw the name of the OP DOHH!

Thanks, that answered something that was bothering me.

Just a curiosity question.

I have seen several articles about DIY CNC and they basically seem to be add stepper motors and count the steps to get the position. IE it is an open loop system.

I am wondering if any CNC machines use the position info from a DRO (or its linear sensors) to make a closed loop system. IE run each axis as a linear servo.

Adrian

I was taking 2 tho off the diameter. I had cut that fine a couple of times before with no issue, and after putting a new insert in I did so again.

I was measuring the small end, and could repeat the measurements quite well. Also the having used the MT slieve a couple of times I had an estimate of X from diameter = Y depth in slieve.

Well these CCGT inserts are sold for non ferrous materials, so I guess they could be a bit fragile. Just such a coincidence it happened when I used the blue. I wonder if my blue or application pad are contaminated.

When I have broken inserts before they have been chipped, never seen one that looked like it had been ground away.

The MT is only for a tailstock die holder so is not super critical, but I do like to make things look good.

Today I was making a morse taper.

All was going great except the finish with my rather old CCMT insert was a bit rough. So with 40 tho to go, i swapped to a CCGT to see how it would go on steel.

Like magic the finish was perfect, several passes and I was down to 3 tho to go, still a great finish.

I then decided to check the taper in a socket. I marked it up with Stuarts marking blue, checked it with the socket and all was good enough.

I did not take the blue off the taper but started to cut the final few tho. Within a couple of seconds it started squealing and not cutting very well. Like a fool I continued and ended up with notches and bumps all along the taper.

Eventually I got the insert under high magnification, could not see any damage at first. Then I noticed a slight different colour on the front face.

From the tip for about 1mm along the face the insert had been ground away leaving a nice sharp edge but zero clearance.

All I can think is the Prussian blue in the marking blue is abrasive. I think I will be cleaning blue off more in the future.

Adrian

One way to solve the problem of the glue not sticking the sole to the boot is to; first fully remove the sole. Clean it up well, liberally coat with super glue then stand barefoot on the soles.

Or it is a knock off

My wife's car almost did not start today after 2 weeks not being used. Hardly turned over when she tried to start it. Started fine when I told her to put her foot on the clutch.

Magnets are made by using an intense pulse of magmatism. This is done by discharging a high voltage capacitor through a coil. If you google "make your own magnetizer" you will find some ideas.

All can be quite lethal if your fingers are in the wrong place.

I do not think adding a series resistor to reduce the current flow is the correct approach, as energy would be waisted in heating the resistor.

The correct operation of this clock would be to use a very short pulse of current as said above. As the coil is an inductor it will have impedance which for short pulses wil be much higher than 10 ohm. With an inductor, when a voltage is applied, the current starts at zero and then rises to the steady state current determined by the DC resistance. So if the pulse is short enough the current flow is minimal.

Adrian

I have just ordered the metal to make HH simple rest from MEW issue 109 pg 17. I had not heard of it till recently and had been putting off making the advanced one.

I would be interested in any hints and tips for the construction. In particular if anyone has a simple way to use a vertical mill to cut the 30 degree sides on the slides.

They are too long to fit in my vice length wise, and i don't have a tilting table. I do have two angle plates, all I can think of is bolting them together to give a 30 degree face.

Adrian

On Thor Hansen's web site he details a way to make gear cutters with clearance **LINK**

As it is a cutter he can use an eccentric mandrel, but for your cutters you could make a tubular sleeve with locking screws. Mount the sleeve in your chuck so it is off center, then follow the method above, but using your form tool.

You could either use 4 locking screws with one flat on your cutter shank, or use one screw and 4 flats on the cutter shank.

You will also need to ensure the cutter blank is the correct depth in the sleeve, so either make the sleeve blind, or use a center in your tailstock.

An advantage of this shaped cutter over your circular design is that it can be sharpened without reducing the tooth depth.

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 14/04/2020 08:45:58