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Member postings for Derrick Watson

Here is a list of all the postings Derrick Watson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: EN1a vs EN1a leaded
27/07/2015 20:06:06

yes, interesting stuff - thanks. I have some leaded and non-leaded on order, so I'll try both - never paid much attention before (in fact not sure whether I've been buying leaded or not!).

27/07/2015 12:19:10

Dear All,

Apologies if this has been covered but a search didn't show up anything. Been building small engines for around 5 years so not exactly a 'beginner' but feel like this is more of a beginners question!

Basically, EN1a leaded is supposed to be more machinable than non-leaded as far as I can gather. But in practice does it really make any noticeable difference in your experiences? And should I be machining leaded in any different way to non-leaded (speed, tool types etc)?

Best wishes, D.

Thread: Hacksaw blade tension
20/09/2011 21:44:16
Been away from the forum for a couple of days.
 
Just wanted to say thanks for all the useful info. Alan - very nice website you listed - hadn't seen that before, lots of useful information and ideas for stuff to make.
 
Oddly enough, I do have a straight handled hacksaw (somewhere) but have always used my pistol grip one assuming it would be better - sounds like I should give it a go.
 
cheers, .d
12/09/2011 10:04:39
Sounds good, thanks - although I didn't realise you should slacken the tension off after use.
11/09/2011 21:22:37
Hello all,
 
I've read a few times that it's important to ensure that a hacksaw blade (12") is at the correct tension but what exactly is the correct tension and how do you know when you've set it?
 
cheers, d.
Thread: Bought a mill to go with the lathe
27/04/2011 21:02:44
Hi, it's an Axminster SIEG X1.
 
I realise it's on the small end of the scale but seems to do everything I've asked of it so far (small stuff mainly in brass, Al and a bit of EN1A).
 
I was also considering the X2 and X3 but space doesn't allow at the moment and I also wasn't sure just how much use it would get. The cost saving has also allowed a couple of other goodies to be bought (rotary table and a few other odds and ends).
 
cheers, d.
17/04/2011 11:01:00
Yep agree with all the above, plus for me one of the biggest differences between the lathe milling and mill milling is the greater amount of movement in the X and Y, easier movement in the Z axes, and simply being able to see what I'm (trying) to do when the work is flat in front of you rather than at 90deg.
15/04/2011 21:33:57
Hi, it's an Axminster SIEG SC2
15/04/2011 18:19:47
More a comment for beginners rather than a question but... I had a mini lathe for about a year, learnt the usual stuff and 'attempted' some milling on it with a milling adaptor thing - but was never very successful using it.
 
Anyway decided to get a 'proper' mini mill and what a total difference it's made. So much easier to use and much quicker, neater and enjoyable than trying to use a saw and file to get simple basic shapes done.
 
So my point is just that I'm really surprised at the amount of difference it's made and the extent to which I'm finding all kinds of uses for it.
 
Cheers all, Derrick
Thread: EN1a Copper Soft soldering
16/11/2010 18:52:04
Thanks all for the sound advice as ever. For the wick tube I was thinking about putting a thead in a hole in the top and on the tube to avoid having to silver solder it. Although it's a while until I'll get onto this part at least I feel like I have a plan now.
 
Also anyone know where can I get suitable wicks from (UK), can't seem to find any local suppliers or any on the web.
 
Thanks again, d.
13/11/2010 18:41:16
Hi,
 
If you've read my previous posts you'll know I'm a beginner. My first proper attempt at building something is to try to make one of Jan Ridders vacuum engines. So far I've got the cylinder, supports, piston rod and a couple of other bits done (I'll post some pics at some point if I can figure out how). Anyway, eventually I'll need to think about the burner - hence this question.
 
I've got some copper tube of about the right diameter but obviously it will need a bottom and top. I've also got some EN1a which (turned) would be about the right size to make a top and bottom cap. So would there be any problems in soft soldering (none leaded electronic solder) the EN1a to the copper tube?
 
cheers, d.
Thread: Simpler the Better -what do you use?
20/10/2010 22:50:04
Can I add t-flex (student edition) to the list
 
Thread: End mills in lathe chuck
19/10/2010 17:58:37
Thanks, I'm glad it's been of use to others.
 
On a related note, I'm now wondering whether a collet could also be used to hold a work piece. I'm thinking about small (e.g., 3 to 8 diameter mm) rods - obviously the collet would need to be an appropriate size. Would the stability etc advantages of the collet over the 3-jaw chuck also transfer to this use?, or is there a reason not to do this?
 
Again thanks for all the help, d.
18/10/2010 18:32:08
thanks all, looks like I should probably think about getting a collet. A couple of follow up questions tho:
 
1) what is TIR (showing my newness to the hobby here).
 
2) a drawbar is? - from a quick google search I'm guessing it's something that holds the taper into the head stock (from the gear side).
 
3) how would you get a taper out of the headstock spindle - it wouldn't be like a tailstock mechanism
 
4) what's the difference between an ER and a milling chuck?
 
5) I've got a Sieg C2, it looks like the following ER32 attaches to the backplate having removed the chuck rather than being spindle mounted
 
 
would this be better than a spindle taper type of setup?
 
Sorry for all the questions, cheers, d.
18/10/2010 16:21:10
Hi,
 
I've read a previous post on here in which most people thought that you should not use an end mill in a drill chuck. But, it is OK to use an end mill in a lathe, using a 3 jaw lathe chuck ?
 
cheers, d.
Thread: Introduction and some beginners questions
04/10/2010 19:04:18
Thanks all for the advice, although perhaps fortunately I'm actually not too worried about whether it runs or not. The main thing I hope to achieve is to get to know how to use the lathe better and gain some general experience. If it ends up looking like an engine then that would be a bonus, if it ends up running as well then that would be a double bonus! (as you can see my expectations are low).
 
Either way I'll let you know how it works out - although will no doubt be a slow build. 
03/10/2010 19:19:09
Ah, hadn't thought about using the pointed tool. Also thanks for the link to the diary - looks like it will be an invaluable guide and no doubt save a number of "help" posts from me.
03/10/2010 18:36:25
Hello All,
 
New to this hobby. Got an Axminster C2 Brushless lathe a couple of weeks ago and been practicing on small pieces of Aluminium and EN1A. So far I'm OK (I think!) with simple turning, facing, boring and parting. So now I've decided it's time for a proper project. Jan Ridders kindly sent me the plans for his one cylinder 'flame eater' which might be a bit ambitious but you've got to start somewhere.
 
Anyway now the questions:
 
Q1) Would I be better using aluminium or EN1A for this. Aluminium seems like it might be easier to work with (from my limited experience) but steel seems like it might be the better material for the piston, cylinder etc?
 
Q2) I've spent a long time thinking about how the wheel is turned. It seems like a standard item on many of these types of engines consisting of a disc with a thinner middle than the outside edge and the centre - hope that description makes some sense. Anyway I can't figure out how to get the recess cut without some part of the tool fouling on the outer (or inner) diameter / edge. I've got a set of HSS tools from here and a set of indexable ones from here.
 
I guess I'm hoping I don't need to grind some kind of special tool.
 
Any help appreciated
 
Cheers, D.
 

Edited By David Clark 1 on 04/10/2010 08:15:24

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