Member postings for Phil P

I built quite a few trials specials when I was riding back then.

This one was an ex army BSA B40 engine in a Royal Enfield frame I called it a "Sabre" which was a play on the letters of BSA & RE

I think one of my favourites was this Royal Enfield Bullet. It started life looking like this when I bought it.

A few weeks burning the candle at both ends produced this.

Phil

The Tri-Greaves reminded me of a trials bike I built and rode about 30 years ago A "Tri-Field"

It was a 500cc unit Triumph engine in a Royal Enfield, very low compression ratio and special wide ratio gearbox internals etc. The tank was from a BSA Victor.

Phil

Jason

I ordered the book last Friday so it might arrive tomorrow, I will let you know what the format is.

By the way, if you look beyond the normal suppliers it can be had for just over £21 inc P&P as opposed to the £30 plus P&P some model engineering book dealers are asking.

Phil

I cannot offer any dimensions, but that curved link just "looks" too long to my eyes. Make sure it does not hit the top of the boiler when in the full forward (down) position.

We used to own the full size Aveling compound roller N° 14070 called "Billy Boy", sadly now converted to a showmans lookalike.

You are doing the right thing testing it in 3D CAD first, I have never come across a published design that is error free yet.

I gave up relying on other peoples drawings years ago, and now work exclusively to my own versions or designs done on Solidworks. That way I have only one person to blame if it doesn't work. My day job is a mechanical design engineer by the way.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 02/10/2014 07:59:47

Strangely enough she also had the exact size of copper tube I had placed a wanted ad on here for as well.

Phil

You might also find that your 1/4" stainless is a few tenths of a thou smaller in diameter than the silver steel, that is unless you have bought ground stainless.

Phil

Just in case anyone is wondering what we are talking about, here is mine in action with a Coventry die head.

Phil

I would look out for a second hand ML7 tailstock to use your Cowells attachment on.

I have an S7, and just like you wanted to keep the rack and pinion tailstock, I just swap the complete unit as when needed, you should be able to get hold of a second hand ML7 tailstock for reasonable money.

Whatever you do, don't sell the Cowells unit, you will be extremely lucky to ever find another if you do !!

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 17/08/2014 09:37:24

I have on fitted on my Myford Super 7 saddle, it came with some other second hand stuff I bought years ago.

It is actually a very handy addition to the lathe, and I would not be without it now.

Phil

A similar problem occurs when holding work in the bench vice.

I threw away the standard jaws many years ago and made a new pair out of solid aluminium alloy bar.

I also use a pair of fibre jaws when working on really delicate items.

Phil

Markham Grange Steam Museum near Doncaster.

http://www.markhamgrangesteammuseum.co.uk/

Phil

This should tell you what you need to know.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe

Phil

You might want to think about adding another step to this operation.

If you drill then ream, it is possible the drill could have wandered out of true, the reamer will just follow the error.

If it is a critical hole I always drill the bulk out, then use a single point boring tool to take it out to reaming size then finally the reamer, that way it should end up concentric and true. You also have better control on how much to leave for the reamer to remove.

Phil

WD40 is good for the clock repair business.

People think a quick squirt into the mechanism will be good for it, initially it does free things up, but after a while it sets like a green wax and bungs everything up worse than it was before.

I have had quite a few clocks through my hands that only needed the WD40 removing and correct oil applied to get them working again.

Phil

There is a BCA mk3 on an internet auction site for under £700, it needs the table tee slots repairing but would be a good little machine and has some collets with it as well.

I use its predecessor, the Boley & Leinen jig borer, it is a superb little machine, but I do have an Alexander Toolmaker as well for the bigger jobs.

Phil

Gray

I have no intention of modifying or using one of these sharpening jigs, I sharpen my drills using the four facet method on my tool and cutter grinder, or just use the old fashioned hand and eye method if I am in a hurry.

Despite that I have really enjoyed reading this thread and have learned quite a lot from it, so keep up the good work and dont be put off posting some more interesting articles.

Phil

I am guessing you are looking at the Southworth pump ?

If so you should get in touch with Bob Potter at Southworth engines, he will give you plenty of advice if you ask.

http://www.southwortheng.x10.mx/index.htm

Phil

How about bonding the wire or a strip of shim steel in place with araldite.

Phil

Is the pitch of the helix pattern on the work-piece the same as that of your leadscrew ?

My Myford was doing something similar exept the pattern was a series of rings on the same pitch as the leadscrew but not a helix, I messed around with the leadscrew and halfnuts for ages with no improvement. It eventually turned out the saddle gibs needed adjusting and the problem disappeared.

The helix pattern suggests some vibration, maybe in the head stock bearings ?

Make sure you eliminate or correct each problem logically one at a time if you can.

Phil