Member postings for Phil P

Me too

Phil

PS Where in West Yorkshire are you ?

Edited By Phil P on 11/01/2020 00:21:20

I thought you were just talking about 2MT collets sorry.

If you want to fit something like an ER milling collet chuck to the morse taper then yes you will need a drawbar to hold it in place and yes any make should work so long as it is 2MT.

However you would be much better off using one of the type that has an adapter that screws onto the spindle nose in place of the chuck, those are much more rigid and you still have the benefit of a full through bore up to the spindle bore diameter depending on the collet used.

Phil

The Myford collets are pushed into the taper using a special nut on the chuck thread, the same nut also withdraws the collet from the taper using a locating groove on the collet nose.

This means a long workpiece can pass right through the collet and spindle up to the max diameter of 1/2" (13mm)

Phil

I have in the last couple of years managed to obtain a full set of genuine 2MT Myford collets.

They are not cheap, but having said that they are very accurate and I am now wondering why I left it so long to get them. I use these in preference to a chuck every time if at all possible. I do have a Harrison lathe with a 1.5" hole in the spindle as well for bigger jobs, 99% of the time I use Burned Multisize collets on that and only very rarely fit a chuck on it.

Actually I think I am a "Colletaholic"

Phil

Certainly do not use silver solder for that job, you might distort the wheel if you get it too hot.

I have used Tix for soldering new teeth into musical box combs, it works a treat and is a lot stronger than normal soft solder, make sure to use the correct flux that comes with it though.

Phil

Chris

Grease is generally used for slow moving assemblies such as Morris Minor suspension joints.

Oil tends to be used for faster moving things such as lathe spindle bearings.

Having said that there are no hard and fast rules, for instance the saddle lubrication on an Alexander milling machine must be lubricated by oil as the galleries are fed by wicks. Grease would just bung everything up and disaster would ensue. The same applies to Myford lathes, I always use oil and not grease on the slideways.

So it is really a matter of following manufacturers instructions, and if they are not available the design of the assembly should be checked to see how the lubricant gets to where it is needed.

Failing that ask someone one here if you need something more specific.

Phil

Nice job on the flowers. Have you seen this guys work

http://artfe.co.uk/sculptures-artfe-blacksmith-metal-art-sculpture-scotland/

He has been on telly a few times.

Phil

Richard

I am curious as to what you are trying to make here, would you tell us what the purpose of the assembly is please.

Thanks

Phil

NDIY

You are correct, I was getting my Accu's muddled up with the DRO system I used to have. It is an Accuspark unit on the car.

I too have heard about some folks having reliability issues with them, but so far mine has been excellent, like I said I do carry a spare just in case.

Phil

I run an Accurite electronic ignition which is housed in the distributor but does away with the points and condenser.

It has been extremely reliable so far, but I do carry a spare distributor just in case. !!

It makes for a much smoother running engine with the added bonus of better fuel economy as well.

Some purists would not entertain the idea of electronics on a classic car though.

Why do you ask ?

Phil

Hi Vintage Engineer.

I think you might be referring to the 12G295 head, I used to run one of those on my Mini van when I was a lad in the 70's. If I used one now I would need a bigger carb and exhaust to take advantage of it as well.

To be honest I am not trying to make the Traveller go a lot faster, I am just taking the opportunity to build the engine to a better standard than they were when mass produced, I am static balancing all the moving parts and being careful with the cam timing, fitting duplex timing set up etc etc. I am after a smoother running reliable engine that I dont need to be spannering in years to come.

Phil

You just reminded me that I took a photo of that process.

The red aerosols in the background are a crack detection kit, the A series heads are prone to cracking so I thought it best to check before doing a load of work on it.

Edited By Phil P on 31/12/2019 23:59:38

Hi Steven

I too am based in West Yorkshire, Silsden actually, which area do you live in ?

You could do a lot worse than join a model engineering club, I can recommend the Bradford one as they are a very friendly and helpful bunch with a very diverse range of interests and talents.

I have the same lathe as you by the way.

Phil

Does this help ?

Plus the removal of the sharp corner at the top of the cylinder bore near the valves which I forgot to mention.

Mine had unleaded exhaust seats fitted which precluded fitting larger inlet valves, but enlarging the throats is an excellent way of getting better gas flow.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 31/12/2019 17:30:16

I would not try and polish the inlet tract, the fuel might not atomise properly, it needs some turbulence to stay suspended in the air flow.

I successfully opened out the inlet ports on my A7 RTC special engine, it had standard inlet valves but very narrow seats.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 31/12/2019 13:47:42

I have just done a port matching exercise on a spare 1098 A series engine for my Morris Minor.

It was surprising just how bad they were when I took templates form each part.

I used a solid carbide burr in a die grinder on mine, and it was very effective and quick to do the job.

**LINK**

Phil

A cross section of the Deckel FP1 is the same as an Alexander.

I think if the shaft had dropped a few millimetres, that would mean it was already coming adrift from the bevel gear.

So if the pin has indeed already sheared the shaft will probably drop out of the bevel gear fairly easily once the other pins are removed, after which you can remove the remains of the pin as described by NDIY above. 

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 30/12/2019 22:24:40

I wish I could remember, but its years ago since mine was in bits, and then it was my dad doing most of the work apart from the heavy lifting.

I do know he told me of some difficulty in removing the drive dogs, but I am reasonably sure that would have been the horizontal ones as the vertical parts were missing when he got it.

It sounds like you are on the right track though, and those pins are designed to shear if you have a crash.

Do you have a manual for your machine ?

I have just sent you a PM

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 30/12/2019 19:44:53