Member postings for paul rayner

hi john

looks to me like you bought the wrong ones they look like t-lights to me

have a look at the start of this thread sombodys put a link on

i got 6 and i have'nt wired them up yet but i have got my sunglasses out ready

Hi all, Is it me or does everybody suffer an abundance of spiders and there pesky webs in there workshops? reason I ask this as I've just painted the walls and floor in my workshop over the xmas period and I seemed to spend more time sweeping and vacuming the walls than actually painting. Apart from conkers (which don't work in the house) can anyone come up with some idea which would discouage them

thats fantastic, ive just put it in my favorites

WOW

I have read somewhere if you pack tube with dried sand and

seal the ends up you will get kink free bends, although I would

imagine in small bore pipes it may prove difficult to remove all the

sand.

hello everyone another newbie here, just a quick couple of questions thats niggling me

ive bought an ml7 and setting it up, got the bed level, adjusted the gib strips as they seemed very slack with a bit of movement to me, ive also invested in an mt2 test bar, which ive put in the headstock and run a dti along it ontop and to the side which is 0.002" out on both planes from one end to the other.

my questions are

1) how tight should the carriage & slides be (i can push the saddle by hand but not the slides)

2) is 0.002" out acceptable i would have thought is should be the same along the total length? will the bearings need adjusting to correct this? ( there is slight movement when the nose is forced with a bar 0.001"

3) when i do rolly's dads method most posts state shimming head /tail stock for adjustment would it be acceptable to utilize the jacking nuts on the

blocks? the reason i ask this is that there are no washers between the lathe and the riser blocks so not much to bed on.

many thanks for any replys in advance.

paul.