Member postings for Ajohnw

Tell you something John. That arrangement is not that dissimilar to a boxford head stock bearing arrangement and lots of other machine's spindles. The bearings tighten as the bearings warm up and the expansion of the spindle doesn't make up for it. Good job too as the bearings would be more likely to loosen as they warm up if that sort of thing actually went on. The spindle cools pretty rapidly away from the bearings so what must actually be happening is that the inner is expanding with the spindle going with it to a certain extent.

Anyway I mentioned Boxfords way of setting preload.. This is it.

Big catch though. It generally doesn't work. Some of that will be down to wear but the most likely candidate is the one they mention - too much grease. They suggest a smear when new bearings are fitted. Something I have also come across else where. That leaves a problem. Grease needs to be added periodically and no way to get the old stuff out other than pumping way too much out. If a spindle has seals on the bearings even if on just one side this may burst them - happened on my Raglan. So what tends to happen is that eventually bearings finish up packed with a mix of fresh and well oxidised old grease full of contamination and the friction goes way up. Well past the figures Boxford mention.

I usually use moly grease but when I replace the bearings I may switch to a fully synthetic long life bearing grease. Can't make my mind up.

John

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I didn't, hence mentioning even if not sealed. I do assume though that some one posted a shot of a parts diagram that shows what should probably be in it.

Personally I will stick with what I was told on normal run of the mill spindle bearing temperature. If you look at the data given they show a drop in hardness of 2 to 3 for a huge increase in temperature from 70C but not on standard bearings even though the top 2 show the same steel. They are also talking about dimensional stability. Many bearing set ups on spindles tighten as they warm up. Measuring temperature can also be a bit tricky as the inner may heat up more than the outer due to heat conduction rates. There is likely to be a large difference between the heat conduction rate of a spindle as against a typical machine tool bearing housing.

John

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I suspect that it's more important to take note of the lubrication. It's pretty safe to assume that as the mill uses sealed bearings it uses grease for lubrication. It probably does if they are not sealed anyway. Probably a higher temperature one if sealed for life and the fill quantities will be a lot less than mentioned later on in the pdf - p55 onwards. There is also mention of water contamination. Actually I don't think people would generally fill a machine tool spindle from new to the levels mentioned in the pdf or by Ketan. It has the effect of generating more friction and hence more heat.

It would probably be a good idea to look at a parts manual for the machine or it's manual and seeing what it has to say about bearing adjustment.

John

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I suspect some people find Warco's alignment test certificates reassuring. I would - just in case.

John

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Interesting reading Ketan. My understanding for running in excess of 100C is moisture - getting shut of /preventing any that happens to emulsify into the lubricant.

I'm surprised stainless looks so good too.

John

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The prize bar is about a5 sized 1/2" thick solid slab of dark fruit and nut. No break lines either and I keep breaking too large a piece off it. Then there are few more normal bars plus dark chocolate coated brazil nuts. One of my favourites. Then some more to share with the family.

John

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Must help pay for the fancy Subaru. I'm enjoying the Forester now I'm used to the gearbox and the total lack of turbo lag. Handling - need more twisty road to tell really.

I'm reckoning on around £4k all in including some bought in work but not much. I've done very well on that so far.

The Bosch 360 degree laser level shows I have a bit of a problem with the floor. I suspect it will have to be done in sections and involve something like shuttering otherwise we will have to barbeque in the cold or cook etc in the caravan.

I could make the units - but too much work with the other things needed and questionable price wise really. I also sold my panel saw which would help with that sort of thing.

A moral. Don't go away for a week and leave your son thinking that you will remove a wall at some point especially as it approaches Xmas. One good aspect though - my workshop will finally get sorted out and I can use it again. It's been tricky for rather a long time now. I have another for woodwork.  Also a dry garage now for messy stuff.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 26/12/2016 13:54:17

Just something I heard some time ago Jason. People finding that the cross slide distorted. Maybe the bit clamped down was seriously not flat.

I just use the micrometer bed stop if things need to be accurate and a rule prior to that or that only. I understand some people do add hand wheels to chinese lathe leadscrews. I would have thought that they would be pretty easy to turn if the banjo can be taken out of mesh with the spindle. A graduated dial might be a problem. The other alternative is a dro on that axis. Simple one can be bought or BW Electronics do one that can be hooked on to anything pretty easily. It seems that the battery for them is a touch expensive but I understand that these do resolve to a higher level than the display. An area where costs vary rather a lot.

My lathe isn't that perfect. I try not to take too fine a cut for it. If I have to increasing the feed rate maintains the finish.

When I visited Chester they showed me some rather long vernier calliper type scales and claimed that they don't miss read or loose counts. A 400mm one would cost around £70. They were surprised that some one hadn't adapted them for cnc as they provided an output. Must admit the lack of similar ideas surprises me too. Hung up on steppers rather than measured movement.

I like to have a small lathe about and as I saw it the wm180 is the first lathe available so thought about buying one. Not right though so would prefer to try and resurrect and old one as it needs to be compact as well. Until I manage that a Hobbymat is mostly ok.

Pass on are these ideas any good etc but while refreshing my memory about the wm180 I noticed this.

http://andysmachines.weebly.com/

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 26/12/2016 13:10:18

Maybe I should ask you to quote on our kitchen Jason. Works off for me over xmas may start again before the new year. Planning just how to level the floor. Tricky. The bits that are being done are not too bad so far. Still need to sort out can I plaster in one place. Hope I can otherwise I'll get one in.

John

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As it turns out I bought myself a 3 in 1 welder. My wife bought me compressor to go with it and for other things and my son bought me a drone I have wanted for some time. The order was messed up so transmitter arrived but the drone will come latter. Then bits and bobs. Socks, some chocolate that will last rather a long time and an XL Nike sweat shirt. Bit baggy in a couple of places but will probably be ok when washed. Their xl's usually are.

John

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Sounds like a Chines lathe to me - in several respects.

Some models do have a sort of T slot arrangement but none as far as I am aware have a traditional one. Just 2 on the outer edges of the cross slide. Use them and the cross slide may distort and seize up or go loose unless parts are rather flat. Once upon a time Neil made one for his mini lathe - on it I believe. There can't be much call for them otherwise some one would be selling them. The traditional ones will reduce the max dia over the cross slide - bad for the numbers game.

The lack of a handle on the end of my none chinese lathe leadscrew has never caused me a problem. There is no scale on the rack feed, i don't generally use the screw cutting indicator to do a similar thing but it does have a micrometer bed stop. I usually just measure and then finalise the size one way or the other depending on how accurate it needs to be. A 6" rule is usually adequate. Sometimes it needs to be longer. Sometimes the scale on the end of the rule is more appropriate.

I have had lathes with a handle on the leadscrew including a Myford. Can't say that I miss them.

The absence of any sort of screw cutting gearbox even ones that can only cover a very limited range and need change wheels is as I see things a serious disadvantage because it's such a pain to change feed rates.

The alternative is a used traditional lathe but for many there is no saying what it will need doing to it if it needs to be in very good condition.

John

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I suspect it's down to skinny thighs. Asked for a 15lb bird and got a 12 1/4 lb. Not much comes out of fresh birds. Maybe I should have added water. Covered the breast well and stuck the temperature up. Still a touch low really but the juices are clear.

Looks like they are trying with the Einhell. I'd say it's not that much noisier than my oil small one that was ex b&q when they were selling power pro stuff. It's not power pro. The Einhell cuts out at 10 bar and back in at 8 and takes maybe 40 secs to get back up again. Could be less or a bit more than that. Looked at my watch too late.

Can't try the cutter for a while. Need some fitting to sort it out a little better than supplied - mostly to make it easy to change from cutting to tig. It just comes with hose ends and jubilee clips.

John

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You might find F6 highlights and selects the entire address bar.If not try some of the other F keys. As the mouse is then often used to do the rest, then right click - copy and etc.

Some one in the helmet thread reckons I wont need a 2 stage. I'll wait and see / might use the regulator that came with it for the 2nd stage - as I mentioned earlier. Never know I might have a reason for trying one.

The turkey is proving problematic. Breast fine, thighs underdone. First time that has happened.

The Einhell uses a piston. I wasn't sure what oil less used. DC motor with speed reduced by rather a lot. It looks like they chose the motor to fit the space leaving a nice neat top rather than a power bulge.

The outlet is 1/4" bsp so easy to switch to pcl.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 25/12/2016 15:41:43

If the actual angle is needed the bars are the best answer but I'd use a mic as there's less chance of it being at an angle giving the wrong answer. That can be a problem with the milliput.

Might be best to blue it afterwards to check. One way of doing this sort of thing is to use the same cutter for the mating parts. That way the angle will be the same. Or should I say can be.

Tut Tut = pointless picking up of some ones english. In extreme cases this can be a great way of preventing people from posting at all. No need in this case anyway. The term used may be more correct but best not get into that other than if I wanted to match an existing angle to the degree it's needed there is no bloody way I would do it like that.

John

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I think the rather large wrapped xmas present by the tree is the compressor.

I spent a bit of time looking around for a replacement torch head. Prices for the same thing vary remarkably so bought of Cromwell.

The torch that comes with it may be made of bakelite. Interesting as ashtrays were sometimes made of it - no problem stubbing them out or maybe there was eventually.

It comes with a nice strong double walled box to keep it all in. Decent if a touch on the small size bags for the tig and cutting torch but not one for stick and the ground lead.

Also looked for what I suspect is a decent consumable kit on ebay that wont contain lots I don't want. I could only find one. It includes 1x1mm, 3x1.6mm,3x2.4mm, 2x3.2mm and 1x4mm sets. Chinese seller that has these in the uk.

John

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The sip 2300 from toolstation is fine. It will go right down onto my ears - there is an adjustment to stop that too. Nice big window and 4 sensors. No external adjustment on that model. There is a 3 position switch inside instead to select the shade range. Weld, cut or grind.

Their chipping hammer looks pretty decent too. My old one is in a right state and was a bit light.

John

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I used to go to Sweden to work in the early part of the year. A place called Arjeplog in Sweden. They prepare a lake there for winter testing of various aspects of vehicles on ice. In my case it was mostly artics and trailers often fully laden so they put us at the shallow end just in case.

**LINK**

Initially 'till some one nearly hit a moose the trip involved a lot of driving well way from the towns. Some one said what's that in the sky. I said the northern lights so 2 cars full stopped and everybody took a look and saw exactly the same thing. No colour at all even after allowing our eyes to adapt to the dark. It was pitch black. Fluke really not even a moon. They were very active too. So I go along with what has been mentioned on the telly very very occasionally in the past - the colours are down to the camera. These days they tend to omit mentioning that.

Our eyes shift to black and white vision in low light conditions so more sensitivity is needed. Binoculars might help but would miss the scope - they go all the way across the sky and flicker about.

Neil probably knows how much any moon messes up astronomical observing. It doesn't take much light to reduce the contrast.

The so called super moon is also a bit misleading. Show it using a longer focal length or do some pp in photoshop.

A sailor once told me the that the best place to see the night sky is in the middle of an ocean. A public obesrvatory had been built not far from where he lived as it was always pretty dark. He reckoned that the middle of the sea was a lot better.

John

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I adjust my Boxford bearing using heat. Some others do since I mentioned it. The boxford way just doesn't work for many.

Not sure how this could be applied to a miller.On the lathe I can get a finger directly under where the bearing is from inside the spindle - which isn't running of course. I go for what I would call nice and warm. Sort of hold your hands in front of a fire warm when they are cold. It's pointless feeling the temperature of the castings on a boxford. The bearings take well in excess of 10mins to settle.

During training - much bigger lathes. One of the instructors mentioned how hot the area around the spindle on the front of the headstock gets and that it takes them about 20min to reach "operating" temperature. He reckoned that the actual bearings would be running at well over 100C. The warmth this creates is as I described. Also for best work possible some benefited from being allowed to warm up before critical work was done. They did too.

What I usually suggest is warm and see how it goes. What's not wanted is hot.

Edit

I'm pretty sure that my dore westbury bearings need adjusting based on the finish. What I intend to do is use the Boxford method and tighten until I see a slight increase in the torque needed to turn the spindle. They suggest rope round something and measuring the torque with a spring balance, One problem for me is that the only thing I can currently put on the spindle is a Myford chuck which is a bit heavy and may make taking readings more difficult.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 24/12/2016 11:12:39

Interesting I came across the use of diatoms to determine drowning some time ago in a book on pathology.

For cleaning I use what is the fairly safe oxidiser approach. Sulphuric acid, potassium permanganate and a fully saturate solution of oxalic acid. It's an interesting example of what I call the web effect. Some people still use a whole series of boiling acids. That is needed when the source is diatom deposits. I didn't fancy it despite advice from some rather well known people. I came across the method in a book that is intended for late teenagers attending study centres such as Dale Fort. Wanting more info just in case I spent a lot of time searching for it. Nothing at all. Mentioned it on a forum and a few months later it was all over the place. Later still some one found a paper. A rather misleading one from what I can gather.

Some people use bleach. Ok but it can dissolve the lot.

Klaus did sell prepared slides on ebay and probably still does. Bidding is often fierce for them. There is also a person in France that did crop up on there as well who does excellent slides. Each diatom has to be placed individually in order to get a decent slide. The usual strews can be very disappointing. In the right mountant lots of them are things of beauty. Others are a resolution challenge - best not get too far into that area. It can lead to a vast increase in gear.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 24/12/2016 10:35:41

I have a brooks external capacitor motor for mine. If it gets done. It's nice and compact.

Problem though I found I had a toolpost grinder recently. I am not too sure how I obtained it but must just have stuck it in the garage where it promptly got buried. The only source I can think of was several things bought from some one who was giving up.

Either way a grinding spindle can be used for grinding tools and as a toolpost grinder so if made I would use preloaded bearings. The unimat design is very easy to make. I'm not sure I would of thought of using circlips as shoulders for things to press on. Nice idea 'cause all can be machine in one setting so it is likely to turn out with everything concentric and square on with no really tricky work other than getting the bore right.

John

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