Member postings for Ajohnw

You can get the type of saw Michael mentioned Brian from here for instance

**LINK**

I've been known to use a coping saw but the piercing blades are probably better. Not something I use much.

John

-

The smaller and crapper the drill the more chance it has of wandering. It's best to always start off with a centre drill. If you break the tip I explained what to do to get it out earlier but there is only a need to use the tip of the centre drill for holes of this size. It ensures the drill starts on axis but doesn't need the use of one of the very fine ones.

Aluminium is funny stuff to drill. The hole needs to be drilled in stages with frequent withdrawals. The swarf often needs flicking off each time with a scriber. Rubbing some hand soap on the drill will help. How far in before pulling out - you'll need to find out for yourself. I don't know say 3mm drill, when the swarf has built up say 10mm back up the flutes. It's also a mistake to feed the drill in too slowly.

Get yourself a decent junior hacksaw that allows the blade tension to be set such as

**LINK**

There are also eclipse blades on there. Not that this means that much, decent junior blades don't match up with what is available for hack saws. A decent even if rather small vice that's fixed in place helps as well.

If you want a few decent drills I would suggest getting them from here. These should be similar sources somewhere in Oz.

**LINK**

Full sets of good quality drills are very expensive but a cheaper set can be augmented with a few smaller ones. They also sell the sets but the price - ouch. The few drills I have bought off them have had ground ends. They were left hand but I assume the others will be too.

John

-

sudo Switch User. LOL no wonder su confuses people. Anybody can use SU but if there is no user name after it then it assumes a switch to root user. There is no such person as Super User. If a user name is entered after it then it switches to that users account. If it's the person who entered it uses their own user name then it wont request a password - providing they have logged in, If it's some other user's name it will.

It's all an unbuntu ism. I assume Russell was referring to what happens when it's installed. It needs to create a root account some how or the other. Otherwise updates and all sorts of things wouldn't be possible. What they have done effectively is hijacked the root account. Personally I feel it's messy.

The reason the name root is used is because that is the owner of the root file system of all disks on the system and as such is the only user that can do anything there. This shows up if some one installs a new disk. Only root can do anything with it. If root creates a folder called say Fred and then gives Fred read write etc permissions Fred can then use the disk. So could any one else that root gives permissions to. Windows users might find some of the permission aspects odd. Applications for instance need execution permissions. The distro's installation aspects take care of this for them so no need to worry. Windows of late has this sort of thing as well anyway.

Suse did allow people to do a dual boot install and may do so now. What it did though was create a separate partition on the disk or disks for all of the Linux stuff. It would grab as much disk as it could and hardly leave any for windows. People could change the size of the partition it suggested though so no problem if people know what a partition is.

Windows will allow dual booting too - or did. There should be instructions about on the web. That would avoid using the usual Linux boot application - GRUB.

The best way for people to try Linux if they want to keep windows is to install virtualbox and then install linux in that. There are other virtual management packages kicking about but this is the easiest to use. I did this initially. The desktop can show both Linux and windows windows at the same time and the mouse can be used freely between them. I did this pre Virtualbox and used one called Vmware. Since then I have used VB from time to time to try out various Linux distro's. It's pretty painless and runs at more or less the same speed as it would running natively.

Or of course just try a bootable cd,dvd or mem stick. Things will run quicker in VB though and there is no need to reboot.

I've been thinking of installing XP in VB to take care of certain firmware upgrades but may as well use my son's or wife's mac. More and more people are switching to mac. That doesn't really surprise me.

John

-

I've heard the su can cause confusion. It stands for switch user and not super user. It defaults to root if not followed by a user name. I use su to install compiled software after it's been built etc In that case sudo is a little less typing as su needs an su username to get back to my account. Sometime I want to remain in the root account usually when running things that only root can run. Sudo is a pain for that sort of thing. I handle system files with a desktop editor set to run as root. Just needs the password when it's opened. If I don't want to risk modifying them by mistake I use the same editor in user mode.

I did try Unbuntu. Might have been a year after it had started up. I spent time setting up a root account and found that even though it let me do it the account didn't work at all. I think opensuse now offers to create a root account rather than doing it automatically. I also looked briefly at Mint but at the time application wise it was a none starter. I also tried Mandriva - the fist update trashed the machine.

Ubuntu - I spent hours getting Gnome more like KDE and still didn't like it. Then tried Kubuntu and didn't like the application installation at all mainly because while it offered lots of things I didn't want those that I did want were not easy to find at all. They ran a sort of hit parade on applications. As a for instance I know I may want to compile some applications. On OpenSuse install there is a section marked development, just tick it and the needed items will be installed from the dvd - worth checking what it includes. That can be done there too as things like kernel headers might not be included automatically. The same facilities are also in YAST. It's even possible to find applications for specific things without knowing what the application is called. People moan about the size of the DVD but I think they also offer a CD sized download.

Not that I am biased of course. You bet I am. They have had their moments with upgrades but they are sorted out quickly via their forum. I've never had one but it can happen. I have managed to mess up dependencies by using a mix of unofficial repositories and the official ones - sorted out on the forum in under a 1/4 hour. The problem with the unofficial repo was providing different software while still using the same name so bits came from several rather than one. It does offer to not add repo's to the list it maintains - I'm inclined to keep them all and forget to mark them "skip".

John

-

John

-

Sounds like the sleeve the plunger runs in is worn. Plunger too. It's a common problem on used DTI's and is probably why they are being sold. They are sometimes used in jig's to check the dimensions of parts and have a hard life.

There was some one in the classified selling DTI's cheaply might be worth seeing if they still have any. A worn plunger is no good at all when they are used to centre rotating parts.

John

-

I just had a look at the rankings. I haven't done that for a very long time. Nice to see OpenSuse well up there.

It's also good to see that Ubuntu has dropped down. Might sound like an odd comment but some web sources seem to think everybody is running Ubuntu and don't provide OpenSuse rpm's anymore. Not this is too much of a problem because OpenSuse provide them but as their aim is bug free releases the latest greatest versions of some are not always easily available. They are usually on the Build Service that several distro's also make use of. It's one click installs from there as well.

Personally I don't like the Ubuntu stable. They have hijacked the root account and I would rather su to root when needed and not use sudo. OpenSuse provides both methods. Application installation is done from the desktop via YAST or one click from web pages anyway. Or ZYPER can be used from the console. That can be useful for console work. If a command isn't installed a simple command can be used to find it and install it.

I follow the kde mailing list. There are lots of problems with some distro releases of KDE 5 however I bought a Linux mag with an OpenSuse Leap boot cd on it claiming it's rock solid. Could be too as they were easily the first people to do this with version 4. Their 4 was so good I never even bothered looking at alternative desktops. I still use KDE 3 email but I think it's time to change now. They still provide KDE PIM3 which includes Kmail for all of their releases but I suspect the maintainers will stop doing that at some point.

If people want to install OpenSuse it's a big DVD and it offers a choice of desktops and has a section for choosing what software to install directly from the DVD. Updates are automated via YAST. It's really not a good idea to use the KDE one. It's best to leave KDE updates entirely to OpenSuse. I'd guess this is why their releases have tended to be lot more stable than others especially in the early stages of KDE development.

John

-

Edited By Ajohnw on 30/01/2016 00:01:14

Edited By Ajohnw on 30/01/2016 00:02:51

I ran opensuse 13.2 with kde on a netbook to try out some astro software which will control a telescope via skymap software and it's other bits and pieces, focus, camera blah blah and etc. It along with the other apps ran without any problems at all despite the limited amount of memory available. Much quicker than the windows that came with it too.

My main desktop has been running OpenSuse and KDE at various release levels for a very very long time. Has to be well over 15 years now. Sadly KDE has moved on to version 5 which currently looks to be a bit flakey.

I just use windows on a laptop for updating one or two things - Vista. Actually I don't think I need that any more.

John

-

Thanks Bob. The the info that seems to be hard to find is a suitable pouring temperature for brass.

The fumes are likely to be a problem for a simple electric furnace. It would probably need to be a true muffle to keep them away from the elements.

Maybe propane is the best bet what ever is being melted.

John

-

This is it less the part that runs on the guide. The drive is via a pin into a hefty casting that isn't shown and runs on the guide.

Also a good illustration of why metal shouldn't be kept in the same cupboard as plastic bottles of hydrochloric and nitric acid. Maybe sulphuric too as that was removed and rebottled when I noticed that the bottles had gone rather rigid.

John

-

I have a similar unit left over from my Myford days. The main difference is that the taper adjustment is via a sine bar.

The sine bar aspect is 2 ball races. The adjustment end is set from a movable block so that it can initially be set to turn parallel.

John

-

I would expect most of the taper to fit into the back of the chuck Brian. Maybe around 1mm proud.

You can check the B16 sizes from a link on this page

**LINK**

You could turn the die holder you have into a sliding one by turning the end of a drill chuck arbour parallel to suit the hole in the die holder. Your carbide tools should be ok on the B16 arbour. You may need a 2mt to 1mt sleeve to hold the work in the head stock spindle. I can't remember you headstock taper.

To be honest when I needed 1mt arbours I parted off and turned down used 1mt reamers on a Hobbymat. Screw cutting them if needed was ok too but the dog clutch needed deburing with a file afterwards. That is what started me off converting brazed tip parting off tool into screw cutting tools. In this case it's probably possible to get a reamer running true in the 4 jaw.

John

-

Edited By Ajohnw on 28/01/2016 18:15:42

I thought that at some point Myford did start using a true metric lead screw - seen by not having a gap / odd divisions at the end on the hand wheel dial scale.

If true they should be able to supply lead screws and nuts for either.

John

-

Edited By Ajohnw on 25/01/2016 10:48:35

Some of the cowboys mill cylinder heads. I told some one who had this done to sell the car. Took no notice and it went again 4 months later.

These people do this sort of thing as well

**LINK**

If you google slideway grinding plus a larger town near you a "local" one might pop up.

John

-

Try something like 180 or 200. Emery cloth or wet and dry not sandpaper. The cloth lasts a lot longer. I'm stuck with 180. I walked into a surplus tool place and the owner had put a large roil of the stuff and other bits and pieces on a pallet before the place shut down. The lads said help yourself. Actually I don't think the stuff I have ever wears out, it just clogs.

If you bent a drill I wonder if you lack some of these

**LINK**

Designed to remain on centre to form a start for a drill. which I am sure you know.

When you break a tip off one, not that difficult at finer sizes you can use your dremel to cut a slot where the tip was to make an extractor.

John

-

You could soon polish the flywheel up with emery cloth Brian. Maybe with a drop of oil to help stop it clogging up.

You'll probably need an extension drill for the grub screw hole. There are 2 ways of doing that. Face, centre drill some 1/4 dia mild steel, drill a hole and then loctite the drill in in it. Or use a pin chuck to hold the drill and fit that in the machine's chuck. These might need tightening with pliers.

When you figure out how to hold the flywheel at an angle don't angle it any more than you need because the drill will be inclined to skid on the surface. A centre punch mark at the angle the wheel is at will help but I'd be inclined to mark the surface with say a 1/4" dia drill as well before using the one for the tapped hole.

Holding it at an angle?? Saw the angle through a piece of wood leaving 2 pieces at the correct angle and clamp between those. Tilt the table if it will do that but the vice will need clamping that way.

A flexible drill vice is handy. I have one bought a long time ago that was made in India. It's similar to this one

**LINK**

Arc also do another range that is cheaper but they look to have gone pointlessly over the top with shapes machined into the jaws. All that is really needed is a ledge for plate, a horizontal V and a vertical one. People have used the one I have for milling and drilling things like lock plates. Ideally they should open to a bit more than the jaw width. Rotagrip sold an identical one but seem to have changed designs now. Oz - there are some similar one's on ebay including by Optimum. Also some SG Iron ones.

John

-

Edited By Ajohnw on 23/01/2016 11:00:40

You could just use rigid plastic plumbing pipe Neil. I'd buy a piece of tube. I would have thought there would be a metal supplier around where I think you are - near Burton on Trent?

John

-

You might find a microscope graticule eyepiece useful Neil. 10x should have a focal length of 25mm. (250mm/X) They come in 2 sizes the smaller one will have a field of view of around 18mm or so. They tend to be a lot cheaper than astro eyepieces with them. This one is high eyepoint as well 261904055261 but the ordinary ones are ok.

John

-

I'd say do put a centre hole in the end of the mandrel.

Considering power and speed on a variable speed lathe you might benefit from buying a few tool bits of this style before even starting - cast iron can be very good at wrecking hss tools even when the lathe is run very slowly if it has a very hard skin - hopefully you wont buy any like that the usual problem is sand in the skin but it can be extremely hard even without that.

**LINK**

Personally I prefer to buy them separately as sets usually have some in that never get used. They are generally the correct grade for cast iron but can also be use on other materials. They can be sharpened on a diamond or green grit wheel but it's important not to increase the clearance angle they come with as they will chip. At one time I was fond of converting the parting off blades to screw cutting tools and didn't use anything else.

John

-

If people want and are prepared to pay for industrial quality there is no need to use the USA

**LINK**

Anyone can buy off them and items arrive next day. FarnelI some times make a point of being cheaper than RS on some items and appear to be offering free next day if before 8pm. Seems to be a similar time to RS for next day.

John

-