Member postings for Rufus Roughcut

Hi Wannabewelder

Basic Tips something in this pattern is easy clamped at the end of a tool and size dependent will be fitted to some milling tools currently out there theres three tips/edges/faces to chew up on one tip so pretty economical, theres every manner of size discritiojn under the sun to contend with so you may need to think how big a tool you will make and size buy to suit your intentions.

Barry

Hi Ian R4

Would you not be better using new on each side of latch bar as per your edited pic, which would unburden the single spring a bit.

Regards

Barry

Hi JamesF

Have you learnt not to leave the chuck key in the chuck yet, I've used lathes for nearly 40 yrs and still do it, and the old adage of learning from your mistakes is now just referred to as frustrating inefficiencies in progress.

Enjoy

Barry

Hi Les

Thanks, I think I'm gonna take the switch box appart to see what's hidding in there may be Capacitor/PCB secrets not yet discovered, also I'm inclined to fit the leads back in wrong rotation and swap the brush leads to see what happens and update

regards

Barry

Hi James

I use one of these, it has a two stage taper to the point to give more tool room to the end of the work piece and also still gives a good sized bit for in the end of tube work.

It's RDG £29.40

Barry

Hi Neil

Thanks for the link

Hi John

No fancy clutches here, it just seem to dump all the motive power through the brushes to never never land

Barry

Hi Ron

Got this off the web ages ago for use without a gearbox and may be some of the other mewmbers could liken the 63 tooth gear convert position to you with a box, I'm led to belive it would be the biggest toothed gear you could fit within the gear covers without problems

I currently use an ML10 for screw cutting and fit a 127 tooth gear without the guards in place so no conversion Probs

I hope this helps

Barry

Hi Les

Sorry yes 240V AC Induction with three wire being a start coil and run coil wound stata the three wires seem to be Black thin start coil IN, Brown thicker run coil IN and Blue thin and thick coils return ????? the other end Brush A has a thick wire (Brown) and Brush (B) has a thin and a thick wire (Yellow). I've since swapped the incoming Blue and Black wires and the rotation has changed to correct rotation however when stopped it stops dead and I felt this may not be correct way of swapping rotation, No sign of any earth wires at the motor which is fitted in a table saw.

Barry

My real queary was would altering the connections over on the brushes change the direction of rotation on this type of motor

Edited By Rufus Roughcut on 17/04/2013 10:09:44

Hi Gents

As a novice I was asked what this is?????

With all guarded response and discriptions clear for a novice to understand what would you say ???

Rufus

Hi Tony

I see the picture on this end however these are prescrition lenses I'm looking through have now put it in album

Rufus

Hi Gents

touche' Micheal and Norman

I think the engineer refered to is a prototype seeking to become one of the engineering in miniture Illuminati, I nearly forgot what the thread was about oh and hears a Cake Decorating picture for Gray to work on

With number plate obsured for tax purposes

Regards

Bazza

Hi Gents

I'm a bit confused now!!!!!

are we aligning or levelling and is this in the horizontal? >>>>>><<<<<<<<or the vertical? vvvvvvvv

^^^^^^^^

At present my workshop in which my lathe and milling machine stand is neither level nor aligned yet they appear to machine absolutely fine is there some critical issue I'm missing,

Is the idea that fixing a rotating machine to a ground that is rotating at a significantly faster speed made of ever moving plates which heave, twist and sag at leisure, then completely ignore angular momentum and gravity, with the expectation that a bubble of trapped gas in a liquid where its meniscus curve is governed by applied and ambient pressure, temperature and every other physical effect in the universe will produce a perfectly level, flat and parallel work piece when looked at, measured and inspected by our ageing eyes assisted by warp inducing bifocals which were never really prescribed for us but where purchased cheap at a car boot sale because of their intended use which was to help us see finite detailed changes and inaccuracies in our equipment including the levelling and aligning gadgets we use. then to top it all when we are happy that all the universe revolves round our lathe spindle we decide to machine cock eyed and make a taper or crank, engineering is insane! !!!!!! Me too

Barry

Like Nigel says 'you pays your money' also

there is an old addig that says' it's a poor work man that blames his tools'

we all risk being burned at the stake for re-modifying the shortcomings of manufacturers that are unable to make a machine that does all we require, that's why the intercom was invented to request cups of tea and dinner updates from the kitchen whilst we are busy, and then still in this climate CNC, computers, 3D printing etc I have not as yet found a machine with operator heating nor brewmaking facilities which are both definately required when you the time considered we spend with the machines.

I believe if the machine you have is not suitable get rid and buy one that is until that one fails then same again.

I currently have 1954 ML7, 1971 ML10 and 2011 Wm 14 etc and all seem fine to me, remember we learn more by failure than we do by success and the journey is rewarding than the destination or why did we enbark on the road

Barry

Hi Mike

to Explain I found it better for repertitions to leave the Wm set up whilst undertaking other work on the lathe, so could have two parts on the go at once without rechucking and reseting up.

Barry

Treat yourself it's christmas soon

Hi Mike

I Have and use both that you describe and use as you would occasionally, the wm14 was ideal for larger surface areas, speeds available and useability through all three axis, however for smaller useage the swivel vert slide is a space saver and is easy fitted used and removed, so unfortuneatly it's cost against convenience, I will say though I prefered the option of both items rathe than either.

Regards

Barry

Hi Gents

Correct me If I'm wrong, but If you re-grind the surfaces of the bed dose that then not require all the associated equipment Travelling on the bed to be then re-aligned, new gib strips fitted etc as the new lesser bed wil undoutedly make al the associated equipment looser in contact of the beds surfaces.

and Also am I right in that if you require to make a deliberate taper, then you set over the tailstock center nearer to the cutting tool for a taper reduction to the tailstock and conversly set over the tailstock away from the cutting tool to taper reduction at the headstock end using the tailstock alignment screw and the gradutated tailstock plate.

Regards

Bazza

Gents

I went on Friday was Ok but ground was sodden and most people required towing out which judging by the turn out was a lot for one 4 x 4 and two lads to handle, had high expectations and didn't understand why 5 days this time

Bazza

Hi Jan/Gents

For info to those whom may be new to the sport of "measuring twice and cutting once"

I've just refurbed a ML7 (1954) once rebuilt I found a similar thing, when I checked the center alighnment from Chuck Spindle to Tailstock Spindle, these where out of line and hence the tapering, I corrected this with the use of two small capacity MT2 tapered chucks (0-10mm opening) one inserted in each spindle both with a small sewing needle in, brought the two points almost together and adjusted the tailstock adjustment screws to compensate which solved the mis-alignment cross the bed, the then problem I encountered was height needle to needle which appeared to be 0.009" low at the tailstock, I parted and shimmed the front edge of the tailstock between the foot plate section and spindle casting with two 4mm wide strips cut from an old beer can which 0.0045" thick across the whole width of the tailstock, I then rechecked ( sherlockholmes magnifying glass and a small torch) with the needles by moving the tailstock backwards at intervals until tailstock was fully extended, at fully extended the needles just started to glance tailstock downwards (don't know how to quantify this deflection let alone measure it.

Next I re-intalled the chuck and with a piece of 5/8" barstock 18" long (already centered at both ends) fitted between chuck and tailstock dead center. I layout blued the bar down the surface nearest me, traveresed the saddle to the chuck end, with a ready centered cutting tool (on this occasion a radius ended one), I advanced the cross slide in until the tool tip barely touched the bar I then manualy rotated the bar backward and adjusted the tool in until it scuffed the bar surface with the saddle being engaged to the leadscrew, I then manualy turned the lead screw hand wheel sliding the saddle and in turn the cutting tool along the surface of the bar, which I felt at the points of bed mis-alignment the tool would attempt to deflect the bar or score deeply into it and at these points the distortion could be marked for accurate measurement, fortunately none of these deflections or scoring occured, when I reached the tailstock end of the bar I manualy turned the chuck backwards to see a similar scuff to the one at the chuck end and was satisfied that all was ok.

It's worth noting that I had initialy when re-fitting the head stock squared this by fitting the 7" back plate and using a set square verticaly up the plate to the bed surface and across the bedway to the plate, Also I have not yet required a spirit level nor wasted a bit of bar stock (which may come later when I plug it in).

I hope this will help with setting up without the need for expensive kit and complex three dimesional Trig

Bazza