Member postings for Bogstandard
Here is a list of all the postings Bogstandard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
| Thread: Where is my post? |
| 31/08/2010 19:18:50 |
A few days ago, I wrote a post advertising where people could download my 'Paddleducks Engine Book' which contained a full description on how to build a twin cylinder steam/air engine. It was totally free for anyone to download, and over the years, many thousands of copies have been downloaded and many engines have been built using the said 'book'. That part of the site has to be moderated before the post is shown. Can anyone on here tell me why it has disappeared and not been posted into the general forum? Bogs |
| Thread: Undersize Taps |
| 27/08/2010 09:46:18 |
For locking a stud into position, get yourself or grind up a 'layout' centre punch (60 deg tip). Find the depth the stud screws into the casting, and about 2 or 3 threads down from the top thread, go around the root of the stud thread with the centre punch. You should only need about four equi spaced pops around the one thread core. Once tightened in using the double nut technique on the stud top threads, that will quite effectively act as a stud lock to stop it unscrewing. Another method is to put strips of bacofoil, about 4, down inside the edges of the tapped hole, then screw in the stud. That should make up enough of the deficiency between the stud and hole size to make it tighter. I have used up to 0.004" ali shim before now to get real sloppy studs to tighten up. Trim off the sticking up bits with a stanley knife after it is assembled. Drink can material is around that sort of thickness. Not a pretty site, but it gets the job done. Bogs |
| Thread: laser cut components |
| 26/08/2010 22:42:23 |
David, Forget all about Steamech, especially his plans and laser cut parts for the twin cylinder engine. I have been chasing him for a couple of years, trying to get a critical missing dimension on the plans. He is in fact still sending out the bad plans and taking Paypal payments, and I even got a chappie local to him to see why he never answers his emails. Basically, his wife said he just can't be bothered. When eventually I get fit, I will make up a case for Paypal to take action and stop him selling defective goods. Bogs |
| Thread: Magnetic Milling Machine |
| 25/08/2010 21:52:28 |
I would suggest you find the orientation of your mill table. If it is set exactly on or very close to a north/south orientation, cutting material in that orientation will impart a magnetic field to the part, and most probably anything else as well. It is a well known fact that if you put a piece of soft iron in the N-S orientation, and give it a good beating with a hammer, it will turn it magnetic. Just a suggestion that might be causing your problems. Bogs |
| Thread: Which Milling Machine? |
| 22/08/2010 14:50:20 |
David, The only reason I use Chester UK is the same reason people prefer different brews of beer, I like the taste. If I had had the same backup from other retailers, then maybe I would have stuck with them. Other people say that they have had good dealings with other suppliers, so I would expect them to use and recommend those. Bogs |
| 21/08/2010 22:35:30 |
David, You have asked an almost impossible question as everyone has differing ideals in a machine, and almost everyone would recommend what they have as being almost perfect, but that applies to them not you. I can maybe give you a bit of a neutral lead, as I was searching for my ideal within a budget a few years back. A machine not quite industrial, but with a robust nature with a fairly deep throat for those larger jobs. My choice at the time was a 626 mill. This is the Chester UK version, but almost all the major suppiers do them with varying different fitments, and of course price. Fairly expensive new, but they do regularly turn up second hand at somewhere near or just above the price you are looking at. My fortunes changed overnight, and I ended up with one of these, but if it hadn't, my choice would have been the 626. A little out of your league, but for anyone who wants a Bridgeport type machine, and who hasn't got the room, this is only about 3/4 the size (especially in height), and it is perfect for what I need to do. I hope this helps Bogs |
| Thread: 3MT quill |
| 19/08/2010 10:33:29 |
Tony, You will find that a 3MT is classed as a self locking taper, that is where if both male and female are in good condition, they will lock up almost solid just by pushing up on the taper. That is how most MT quills work in milling machines, and so does not require the tang to tighten up, just either a method of locking the quill while you tighten up on the drawbar, or a spanner on your toolholder which will do the same sort of thing. The tang fitting is also standard in most mills with an MT taper, that is so the mill can be used as a drilling machine using the larger sizes of drills that have an MT taper and tang. That allows you to quickly change drills by using a tapered drift thru the slots in the side of the quill to release the drill rather than having to undo a drawbar. So you should find that your MT tapered tooling without tangs should work just fine using the drawbar you have. But you must take care which type of thread is used on your drawbar, because tooling can normally come with two different types, and you will have to get another drawbar turned up with the other thread on, just so that you can mount either type into your machine. Have a look at the top ones on here, it shows that you can order one of two types for MT3, one with a M12 thread or another with 3/8" Whitworth. I would suspect your drawbar, as it is continental, to have an M12 thread. Just a warning, unless you have a self ejector on your drawbar, it can take some serious persuasion to get the MT taper to seperate, and I would suggest you invest in a good dead blow or lead hammer, to prevent damage to the drawbar top. I hope this helps. |
| 18/08/2010 18:06:55 |
You don't mention what mill it is. But I doubt, if it is that way out, you would be able to get anything to convert it. Is the spindle drilled all the way through from top to bottom? If it doesn't, then there is nothing you can do, unless you put a hole thru it yourself. Then it would just be a matter of getting a drawbar made and standard no tang tooling should fit. I would say, because it only has a tang fitting, it is actually a drilling machine, not a mill. On a drill, all the pressure is in a downwards motion, so a tang fitting is fine, on a mill, there are significant side loads on the quill, so it has to have a drawbar to stop the MT fitting from falling out. You will also find, that a drilling machine bearings will not stand up to the side forces required for milling, and would soon collapse. Bogs |
| Thread: ER25 Collet quality |
| 17/08/2010 08:41:37 |
Clive, I have been bringing things in from HK and China for a while now, and found everything as good as you buy from most model engineering retailers, that is where they get a lot of their stuff from. The import duty and the £8 that the PO charges to tell you that they need to be picked up from the sorting office does take the shine off some things, but still usually a lot cheaper than you can obtain here. If you keep the order below £18 (no need to include postage charges in that figure), they should be delivered directly to your door with nothing to pay. Not a lot to play with, but everything helps. I can get a fair amount of cutters or bits and pieces for that price. This is one little place I have found for all those bits 'n bobs Bogs Edited By Bogstandard on 17/08/2010 08:50:41 Edited By Bogstandard on 17/08/2010 08:51:05 |
| Thread: Cutting fluid when reaming |
| 16/08/2010 09:35:37 |
Alex, Almost all materials require it's own sort of cutting agent, but you can't go far wrong if you buy yourself a bottle of cutting and tapping fluid. You don't need to flood the whole area with it, just a light coating will do. It is designed to take the high pressures involved with tapping and very heavy cutting, but it is just as good for reaming and drilling. For the average amount a person does in the shop, a bottle can easily last a couple of years, so doesn't work out too expensive when spread over that time, and of course it will do you for the other jobs as well. Hope this helps Bogs |
| Thread: Making Springs |
| 15/08/2010 11:18:32 |
As Jason has mentioned, but instead of burning it out, make the former in quarters, held together by soft wire. As the spring expands after forming, cut the soft wire and extract the quarters out of the open ends. Depending on the size of the end holes, you might have to make the former with a central core that will come out of the hole and a segmented shell around the outside, with each piece being able to pass thru the end hole. It is not as difficult to do as you might think. Bogs |
| Thread: 4 jaw Self centering chuck |
| 14/08/2010 19:39:00 |
I use my 4 jaw self centring most of the time, except when using hex bar. I have found over the years, all my 4 jaw sc chucks have slightly less runout than my standard 3 jaws. usually less than 0.002". I find them just a little more versatile for my personal needs as I tend to use round and square stock more than round and hex. For a first chuck, I would definitely go for a three jaw, then a four jaw a very close second. Just as a point of interest, no matter which chuck you buy, get a set of soft jaws to fit at the same time. I won't buy a chuck unless soft jaws are available for it, and if used correctly, soft jaws can make precision machining a piece of cake. Bogs |
| Thread: Centring a rotary table horizontally on a mill table. |
| 13/08/2010 05:11:13 |
Michael, It sounds as though you have a little trouble with your axis lead screws. I don't know the layout of your mill, but many mills have adjustment in the nuts to take out the free play. Also, if you tighten up your gibs a tiny amount, that might prevent the table moving as much as you tighten up the locks. Or actually put your locks on, but not too tight, as you come to final setting. Then when you do the final lock tweak, it shouldn't move so much. If when you tighten up as it is now, anything under 0.05mm (0.002") should be acceptable. That is a normal sort of tolerance figure, and isn't usually noticeable on final assembly of parts made. You can sometimes take getting perfection a little too far, and all you end up with is frustration, attempting to reach the impossible. Bogs |
| Thread: DRO for Myford ML7 |
| 09/08/2010 00:00:24 |
Having got two Sino 2 axis units on my lathe, and a 3 axis on my mill, and just about to order another 2 axis for my old surface grinder, I can assure you, even being disabled as I am, they are relatively easy to fit and the manuals are plenty good enough to set them up. But there are pitfalls. It seems that people want to just open up the box and have them jump out and fit and program themselves automatically. EVERYTHING you require is in the manual, the only problem is that you have to read it. You should find that using your engineering knowledge, most things are provided to mount things up in various ways, even onto very rough castings, but invariably, unless it is a very easy installation, you will have to manufacture all sorts of fittings and brackets to solve your particular mounting problems. They will need to be to thou accuracy or have facility for adjustment and you should do the same for setting the heads, because if you don't, you can actually damage the read heads. If you can't work to those tolerances, don't even try. Pay someone to do it for you. I have now been using them for two years, and during this time, they haven't missed a beat. I don't use the machine dials any more, everything is done using the readouts, they are far more accurate, unless of course you haven't set them up perfectly true, and the supplier can't be held responsible for that. Here are a few links that shows how mine were fitted. The lathe came with the saddle and cross slide, and the mill with X & Y already done. This is fitting the No1 z axis to the mill Mounting a read head to tailstock If you read those two bits, it shows that fitting DRO's is not a thing to be taken lightly, and it must be done very accurately, and you must plan out everything very well. Here is a quickie about the compound. Bogs |
| Thread: Centre drill misalignment |
| 05/08/2010 06:55:55 |
Si, Some good info there. The 90º point issue does now seem logical, as a normal centre pop is the same angle for drilling. Bogs |
| 04/08/2010 03:47:45 |
Sam, I have no exact reason for the difference in angle other than yours, maybe someone in the CNC big boys world could shed some light on it. Like your suggestion, I use the 120º for starting off normal drill points and for drilling thin sheets. But four facet ground twist drills with their much larger angle and finer point do have a reputation of being able to self start accurately without aid from a centre or spot drill. Even though I have a full set of them, I still like to put a small spot in first. The 90º ones get used when I am drilling a blind hole for tapping, the angle on the end usually matches the point on the end of a tap. Whether that is right, I have no idea, but I haven't come across any problems yet. I only have one set of carbide ones, the 3mm ones (that is the size I use the most), the rest are just standard cobalt ones. Cobalt is just another HSS alloy that gives a slightly sharper, tougher and better lifespan than normal HSS. |
| 04/08/2010 03:47:18 |
Sam, I have no exact reason for the difference in angle other than yours, maybe someone in the CNC big boys world could shed some light on it. Like your suggestion, I use the 120º for starting off normal drill points and for drilling thin sheets. But four facet ground twist drills with their much larger angle and finer point do have a reputation of being able to self start accurately without aid from a centre or spot drill. Even though I have a full set of them, I still like to put a small spot in first. The 90º ones get used when I am drilling a blind hole for tapping, the angle on the end usually matches the point on the end of a tap. Whether that is right, I have no idea, but I haven't come across any problems yet. I only have one set of carbide ones, the 3mm ones (that is the size I use the most), the rest are just standard cobalt ones. Cobalt is just another HSS alloy that gives a slightly sharper, tougher and better lifespan than normal HSS. |
| 03/08/2010 09:51:25 |
Sam, Spot drills are used mainly in CNC work, where no centre pop is used, just drill straight in. Hence that is why you most probably haven't come across them. But they used to be very expensive. I sorted myself out with a full set from 3mm to 8mm for, I think, just over twenty squid, and with well over a couple of years constant use, I haven't lost one yet, whereas normally, I would have lost at least a few centre drill tips. Because I use DRO's on my mill, I still do my layout, purely as a double check, but I don't centre pop any more, as being even a tiny bit out with a pop mark can throw the centre drill or normal drill away from exact centre. The spot drill can be brought into position and drill into the material without any aid at all. Normally I go straight thru with material up to about 4mm thick, over that, I follow down with a normal drill. I wouldn't worry too much about not knowing about them, I still come across stuff in old books that I haven't seen or heard about, but are still available even today. Bogs |
| 03/08/2010 03:49:30 |
Sam, I tend not to use centre drills any more, but spotting drills, which have fallen in price dramatically recently to a stage where they are a better substitute for putting a drilling point in. Centre drills are really for putting the taper into a rod end so that they can be turned between centres. A centre drill has just a normal drill point on it, so any misalignment can send it skating across the job, just like you found out. Spotting drills actually come to a very sharp point but still act as a stub drill, and as such don't wander. I can't give you any links in your antipodean paradise, but I can give you one in our rain soaked little island. Bogs |
| Thread: Myford alternative |
| 01/08/2010 21:08:15 |
Norman, Far from it, I too have refurbished and owned an early Myford, and done a lot of repairs on others, and I can tell you now, they wear out just as much as any other machine. I am a great believer in value for money, and as far as I am concerned, Myford and all their extras are very far from it, and I can't see why it still has a cult status for such a very low spec machine that has to have excessive amounts spent on it to get it to the same spec as a machine costing a great deal less. You have amassed a fairly large list in your post, but in all fairness, most of that is also applicable to other machines as well, except the 'large range of OEM and other accessories available', mainly due to other machines having them already fitted, and I would hate to think how much a refurbish would cost at Myford. One thing I do really hate about Myfords is when some know it all does a write up in a mag, drags a lump of home made gadgetry that fits onto their Myford and starts to ramble on about how they machined up such and such. That article really has no real relevence to modern day machining, purely because maybe only a handful of people has made such a piece of gadgetry and could follow along, and when you look at what is being done, could most probably done in a tenth of the time using a mill. Now that is the crux of the matter which I have been rambling on about. If Myford would just look at 21st century machinery needs, and cater for it, rather than trying to rest on their laurels, pushing a machine that is basically 60 years old, for extortionate prices. Once that generation of die hard owners is gone, and new owners actually come to their senses and realise that they are way behind in the machining stakes, unless Myford take a good look at what is happening in the model engineering market, they too will disappear down the tubes, like a lot of British engineering has. Of course, I am just one person airing my own personal views, which we are surely allowed to do in this day and age. Whether you agree or disagree with what I have said, you have got to admit, I have raised some very debatable points, which is what a forum is all about. And for that Norman, I thank you for your honesty and candour in your post. Bogs |
Magazine Locator
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our Newsletter
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
Latest Forum Posts
- *Oct 2023: FORUM MIGRATION TIMELINE*
05/10/2023 07:57:11 - Making ER11 collet chuck
05/10/2023 07:56:24 - What did you do today? 2023
05/10/2023 07:25:01 - Orrery
05/10/2023 06:00:41 - Wera hand-tools
05/10/2023 05:47:07 - New member
05/10/2023 04:40:11 - Problems with external pot on at1 vfd
05/10/2023 00:06:32 - Drain plug
04/10/2023 23:36:17 - digi phase converter for 10 machines.....
04/10/2023 23:13:48 - Winter Storage Of Locomotives
04/10/2023 21:02:11 - More Latest Posts...
- View All Topics
Support Our Partners
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer
Latest "For Sale" Ads
- Reeves** - Rebuilt Royal Scot by Martin Evans
by John Broughton
£300.00 - BRITANNIA 5" GAUGE James Perrier
by Jon Seabright 1
£2,500.00 - Drill Grinder - for restoration
by Nigel Graham 2
£0.00 - WARCO WM18 MILLING MACHINE
by Alex Chudley
£1,200.00 - MYFORD SUPER 7 LATHE
by Alex Chudley
£2,000.00 - More "For Sale" Ads...
Latest "Wanted" Ads
- D1-3 backplate
by Michael Horley
Price Not Specified - fixed steady for a Colchester bantam mark1 800
by George Jervis
Price Not Specified - lbsc pansy
by JACK SIDEBOTHAM
Price Not Specified - Pratt Burnerd multifit chuck key.
by Tim Riome
Price Not Specified - BANDSAW BLADE WELDER
by HUGH
Price Not Specified - More "Wanted" Ads...
Get In Touch!
Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.
Digital Back Issues
Donate
Register
Log-in
Model Engineer Magazine
- Percival Marshall
- M.E. History
- LittleLEC
- M.E. Clock
ME Workshop
- An Adcock
- & Shipley
- Horizontal
- Mill
Subscribe Now
- Great savings
- Delivered to your door
Pre-order your copy!
- Delivered to your doorstep!
- Free UK delivery!
