Member postings for Brian Oldford

I'm keeping my options open just for now because I want to prove that my chosen method of discreetly driving the lead-screw is satisfactory.

(I've yet to decide exactly how I'm going to mount and drive the rotary encoder).

At this stage I'leaning towards the one that's serialised on Youtube by Clough42 starting at **LINK**

He's fully open sourced the source code should anyone what to tweak it for there own use.

I'm working up a bracket to mount the stepper motor inside the change-gear housing. I'm making my Mk1 arrangement with the motor driving the LH end of the lead-screw via a pair of skew gears. That way I'm hoping I can get the 120mm long motor inside the housing.
If there's any interest I'll post updates as I proceed.

Edited By Brian Oldford on 11/09/2019 19:27:47

Hi John

I didn't manage to get back to it until late afternoon.

However I had had Success!

I inspected the studs for the burr you suggested but could n't find anything. Even after removing the studs completely the thing still wouldn't budge. With that I decided to remove the rear plate of the change-gear housing, the left hand lead-screw bearing and the banjo as one lump by removing the 3 x 1/4" BSF fixing bolts.

With the lead-screw bearing gripped in the soft jaws of the vice a few very gentle taps to the banjo released the spigot that is concentric with the lead-screw from the bearing body.

Job done.

Now to see if I can mount the stepper motor.

Thanks John. I'll take another look at it tomorrow morning and let you know if it is as simple as that.

That assumes all marbles would be equally loaded. My gut feeling that is unlikely with a a timber structure.

Thanks John. I had considered that and may yet end up resorting to it. However at present I'm pursuing the idea of fitting all the gubbins; Stepper Motor, Rotary Encoder etc. inside the change-wheel housing.

It still doesn't explain why the darn banjo won't come off!

Make several passes under back-gear and don't spare the Trefolex.

Can anyone advise me if I've overlooked something or if there is anything missing from the exploded view G of the S7 on/in the Myford website/manual.

In preparation to fit a stepper motor to drive the leadscrew for the Electronic Lead Screw I'm trying to measuring up to make the bracketry for the motor. To do this I need to remove the Change Gear Quadrant (Diagram I/D G52; Part A4736). I have removed the two 1/4 BSF nuts along with washers from the studs (Diagram I/D G53; Part A4725). Is there anything else holding the Change Gear Quadrant? It rotates freely around the leadscrew but I'm unable to withdraw it away from the L/H Leadscrew Bracket Assembly (Diagram I/D G45; Part 74/1134/1).

I'm hesitant to try anything concussive at this stage.

https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/info_685.html

Forget the track circuits and use axle counters instead.

It's probably complete junk. Send it here for safe disposal.

Edited By Brian Oldford on 05/09/2019 18:33:18

+1 for the brazed solution for cast iron. Welding will almost always result in the formation of brittle carbides are the edge of the weld.

Presently collecting parts in preparation to fit one to my Myford S7.

Picking up on this very old thread. Those with an interest in Electronic Lead Screws might like to follow this series of videos starting at 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTs9GygRQ-U

Edited By Brian Oldford on 03/09/2019 18:35:41

Edited By Brian Oldford on 14/08/2019 08:33:02

Think Darwin. Think Darwin.

These had a mechanism that detected when the pendulum's travel fell below a certain range.

**LINK**

They put the crank in place and build the engine and ship around it.

In the past Lime was used by pattern-makers for producing intricate shape because it carves so sweetly. I've only used small samples finding the only superior material being some of the lighter grade Sikabloc foamed polyurethane foam boards.

Assuming they are what they claim to be, the clue is in the word "malleable". The swarf from malleable iron will usually appear somewhere between mild steel and regular grey iron.

Methinks a specially made tailstock barrel might be your answer. Drilled through as large as possible and made with an enlarged end to accept a standard Myford chuck thread.

You have the machine there to make such an item.