Member postings for Steven Vine

And thanks from me to Malc, Vic and everyone else for the dimensions and info. I much appreciate your time with the tape measure.

Have you got the length and width of the cast base at its bottom where it sits on the stand, and also the approx measurement from the back wall to the front of the cast base. I trying to work out the depth of bench I need?

Steve

Hi NIckT

I'm right on the verge of getting one as well, just need to organise a workshop to accomodate it. I also would like some confirmation of a couple of dimensions, so I can plan ahead as I'm going to mount it on a bench and not the stand. And I have to have it hard up against a wall to the left!

Can anyone give the dimensions of the cast base (not the steel stand) i.e depth front to back, and the width?

Also, can anyone tell me the distance between the bottom of the cast base and the top of the table, when the table is in the lower position.

Can I also ask, does the screw for the knee protrude below the cast base into the steel base at all? If so, by how much?

I'm hoping the maximum space required either side of center of base, as you look from the front, is 750 (looks like Mike has confirmed this, thanks also).

Sorry if I am intruding on your post., but would really appreciate these critical dimensions.

Steve

Thanks Capstan,Lofty.

I've walked away from many similar units that I have come across in pub cellars because I have been wary about their condition under pressure. I'll bring home the next one I find, give it a prudent test, and start tinkering.

Steve

Following on from XD351's reply, does anyone know if a receiver like this can be reliably tested for soundness using the water test method used for model boilers?

Steve

I'll second the Decktite as Neil suggests. We used these on a lot of jobs. We always backed things up with a storm collar above the Decktite; to keep the worst of the weather away from the joint where the Decktite meets the flue.

Steve

Hi Neil

I'll blow the dust off this one again. I few weeks ago I was thumbing through a digital back copy of 'The English Mechanic' Vol1 No1 dated March 31st 1865 (as you do). In amongst the adverts on page 12 there is an image of the Bourdon stamp. It looks similar to the stamp on your gauge.

Although this does not date your instrument, you can say the design of your stamp definitely existed in 1865.

The future is digital!

Regards

Steve

PS I hope I am not infringing copyright with these extracts.

Edited By Steven Vine on 16/02/2015 13:38:58

Neil

Lol. I am now thinking face mask and breast plate to keep the hot swarf off me,

One must not underestimate the usefulness of cardboard.

Steve

If you are in a rush, a cardboard box comes in handy (purists please look away now).

Steve

Hi Jason

FWIW ... the 'report flag' option only appears if you are logged on as a member. There is no option if you are not logged in.

I saw those posts last night, thought the language was a bit strong, but was not offended as I hear that stuff all the time. The language is out of place on this Forum though (says he who let the F word slip one time and was quite rightly hauled over the coals).

Steve

Hi Steve

March Engineering Nuneaton Ltd.

Call Machine Spares Ltd of Brierly Hill; they took over the Clarkson/March stuff. Also lathes.co.uk may have a copy.

Or buy the Mark 2 Clarkson off ebay and get the copy that way! Lol.

Steve

Hi Simon

One of the catalogues indicates that, with the proper size driving pulley on the motor, the Perfecto 3 sheave pulley will give 60, 70, and 80 strokes per minute. If you know the 3 sheave pulley dimension and the motor speed then you should be able to calculate the motor pulley size. Looking at pictures it looks in the region of 1.5 to 2 inches.

Steve

Hi Lewis

Can you post a photo of the motor, the name plate, and also show the B234 reference?

Steve

Hi Bodgit

I have the Warco version of that machine. On my version the mill head casting clamps onto a smooth part of the Upright Column, just above the threaded bit, and not on the threaded bit by the look of things.

Quite a few times in the last 6 years or so, the mill head has jumped up and then violently swung out of the way when a milling cutter has got bogged down. Scary to say the least. But this has only occurred when I have lost concentration and taken too heavy a cut. Most of the time, light cuts, a sharp cutter, and a moderately firm tightening of the locking lever keeps the milling head in place without issue.

Further to Michaels question about the fit, have you taken the head completely off the machine and inspected the fit between the head casting and Upright Column. If the mill head keeps moving and you have done the clamp up tight then maybe the casting has been bored out too much and is a loose fit on the Upright Column. If you find a sufficient gap, is there any chance you can insert a temporary thin shim sheet or wire in there, and clamp up, and see if things improve. I am thinking just a little piece may make a lot of difference. Also, are the threads on the locking bolt in good condition and applying enough force. If the threads are worn or soft then maybe that is why you cannot clamp adequately? A more drastic step would be to lengthen the split in the casting a little (I've seen that done with the casting in the quill area). Also, maybe try a disassembly and dry off any oil or grease and see if that improves matters. Another drastic step, rough up the column to increase the friction between it and the casting. Careful you don't drop the plastic bevel gear during all this (the Warco guys did that to my machine and had to renew the gear).

Maybe you could secure a substantial bar/plate affair to the oil cover plate (blind flange) at the back of the headstock using studs and wing nuts. Drill and tap for a couple of studs in the mill head casting. You could then secure the bar/plate to the mill head casting with wing nuts. All can quickly be removed if you need to swing the mill head.

Or, drill through the mill head casting and a little way into the Upright Column. Then insert a bolt to secure the two together.

I only have to apply a 'quite firm' pressure to my locking lever to secure the mill head casting. Forgive me for saying, but you don't want to extend the lever to gain more clamping force as it could break the casting. It's a different place I know, but I was tightening up the Quill Lock (not applying much force) and one of the casting lugs broke off.

Keep us posted.

Steve

Just a thought. If space is tight, is it possible to braze a vertical tube to the top of the boiler end cap, and mount the safety valve in the end of that.

Steve

Just to keep this moving on a bit (alright, I'm laid up at the moment with a bit of time to spare) ....

A quick search in 'Graces Guide' leads to Negretti and Zambra (founded 1850). Although your gauge does not look like one of their manufacture, there is a loose connection with Negretti and Zambra as one of their adverts (1880) shows a Bourdon Trade mark stamp similar to that on the casing of your pressure gauge ... **LINK**

You can download a rather large google PDF file of the Negretti and Zambra's encyclopaedic instrument catalogue, which was published after 1884, maybe circa 1887?. A search for Bourdon in the catalogue shows a few pressure gauge drawings and information at page 205 onwards ... **LINK** The catalogue states that Negretti and Zambra were sole agents for the Bourdon Gauge (whatever that means). I must admit I thought your gauge was a refurb/fake due to the pristine face. If the Negretti catalogue is to be believed, it states it is genuine if it has the Bourdon stamp on it. The catalogue states that if the instrument does not bear the E Bourdon trade mark, then it is not of the M Bourdon manufacture, which I do not understand?

Not that I know anything about patents and licences and how they work, maybe Negretti Zambra acquired the UK Licence sometime before the patent expired (in 1875?). Re an earlier posting: one online locomotive book states that Ashcroft acquired the American 'Licence' after a visit to the 1851 Paris Great Exhibition (Bourdon is not listed in the participants at that event).

Other thoughts I'll throw in the pot. The rather fine looking font on the gauge looks French (the typography is similar to the French Didot Linotype). Your font looks like it is matches that on the ebay gauge I linked to earlier. The English wording Compound Gauge makes me think it was not for the French market?

I'd be interested to see what the experts come up with.

Steve

Hi Neil

Here is a different type, but with a similar inscription.

**LINK**

Steve

Well, to that amendment I would have added '- or lack thereof'

Steve

If there is 'any doubt' or conflict, it seems prudent to err well on the side of caution when dealing with pressure vessels. I'm in the midst of planning a boiler and my main concern is not causing harm to any nearby onlookers, so the shell will be 3.25mm, silver soldered. The cost of materials does not really figure in my calculations.

Substituting 2x test pressure for Wp into the formula seems a good idea. I read this other thread earlier today ..... **LINK**

Steve

Very strange. Only two days ago I cracked open a rotten egg for the very first time in my life. The yolk flew out of the shell, all in one piece, and felt dense and heavy. The smell has put me off eggs for a while.

FWIW, Bandersnatch, I saw your post as nothing but a compliment to Andrew. Steve