Here is a list of all the postings Jim Guthrie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: ML10 modifications |
08/01/2015 18:32:27 |
John,
What a well kitted out ML10 and it looks in excellent condition. I do like the large hand wheel on the saddle - a much better option than the standard ball handle supplied on mine. One thought I had about using the Super7 base is that the tool seat might be raised since the centre height of the Super7 is higher than the ML10.
Jim. Edited By Jim Guthrie on 08/01/2015 18:33:08 |
08/01/2015 11:21:25 |
John,
Just as an afterthought, but I wonder if the Super7 topslide base will be compatible with your topslide and the replacement crosslide to give you a way out of the problem. Maybe someone with a Super7 could measure the slide dimensions to see if they are the same as your ML10 ones. http://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/K24.-TOP-SLIDE-BASE--A2076-678.html If not, a complete Super7 topslide assembly might be a way out, but a bit expensive.
Jim. Edited By Jim Guthrie on 08/01/2015 11:22:44 Edited By Jim Guthrie on 08/01/2015 11:23:40 |
08/01/2015 11:06:02 |
John,
My original Myford ML10 was a fairly early one - No. V111034 - and it has the type of topslide mount which will fit in the long crosslide you have been supplied with - i.e. angled stub on underside of topslide which is locked by two shaped pins in the crosslide tightened by square headed screws. I purchased a replacement long crosslide from Myford a few years ago and it was a straight swap with the original crosslide fitted to my lathe.
However, I had a look in the "Myford ML10 Lathe Manual" by Ian Bradley, published in 1970, shortly after the lathe appeared on the scene and on Page 24 the topslide details shown are exactly the same as yours. So it looks as though the very first ;lathes had your arrangement which was then changed by the time I bought mine in 1973
Jim. Edited By Jim Guthrie on 08/01/2015 11:06:34 Edited By Jim Guthrie on 08/01/2015 11:08:09 |
Thread: 101 things to do with an Adept Lathe |
22/07/2014 07:48:47 |
Noting the reference to "pedal driven", I do remember getting a Super Adept in the late 1960s/early 1970s and using it for a few years to help in model making. It started off being mounted on an old Singer sewing machine stand and using the Singer treadle to power it. But I did fit a small motor since treadle turning on that setup was not all that easy. Jim. |
Thread: Train Layout |
05/11/2013 08:43:39 |
Posted by Springbok on 04/11/2013 12:14:02:
Thank you John what a layout what gauge is this... Bob It states H0 scale at the start of the Youtube video, so 16.5mm gauge.
Jim. |
Thread: New Look |
01/10/2013 10:21:41 |
Sadly still no 'first unread post', though.... That is one feature which would help reading this forum no end. It's a feature common on other forum software and saves having to trawl down a thread to try and work out where your first unread post might be.
Jim. |
Thread: Mill Toolholding question |
02/09/2013 10:20:22 |
Posted by Ady Wilson on 02/09/2013 09:37:34:
Thanks for all your replies they are very much appreciated. The machine should be getting delivered tomorrow so I will be able to look at the drawbar thread. I managed to find a page explaiing the ER system and sizing so am beginning to understand a bit better now. I am glad to have found this forum it seems a great place. When I checked my post a few minutes a go there was one reply and after replying to that there had been more replies so have had to come and edit this lol. Really nice to get so much feedback so thanks to all of you. Ady,
If you contemplate using small diameter milling cutters (~1mm diameter) which are quite short in length, be prepared to look at something like an ER11 collet holder and collets as well as the larger collet systems. The reason is that these small cutters will only project about 15 - 20mm from the collet face and the diameter of the closer nut on ER25/32 can be a bit of an embarrassment when trying to avoid holding clamps, etc.
Jim. |
Thread: 10ba nuts |
09/03/2013 08:55:50 |
I use wooden cocktail sticks if I have problems holding small nuts. I cut the point off until the end will just press into the nut and give enough friction to hold it, then transfer to the end of the screw/bolt.
Jim. |
Thread: Milling Machines |
15/01/2013 09:10:26 |
Posted by Sid Herbage on 15/01/2013 01:59:47:
I'd give a lot of weight (pun?) to table size in your decision making. With these smaller machines, if you're using the mill for general purposes you will frequently find that the table or table-travel is just not quite big enough for the job you want to do. (Of course, the price goes up with table size). I would agree with that. I have two small mills - Centec 2A and a Seig KX1 - and the limitations of table size and X axis travel are a constant problem even though I model in smaller scales. In a lot of cases, it can be the lack of room available on the table to clamp items. I would go for as big a table and table movements as you can accommodate/afford.
Jim. |
Thread: simat 101 backgear |
19/12/2012 10:51:07 |
Posted by Gra on 19/12/2012 09:45:11:
Hi Brian, If you look at one of the centre pulleys on the headstock, there is a small grub screw, loosen this with an allen key and then engage the backgear by bringing the lever and gears forward towards you. This will give you a 4:1 reduction ratio on any speed depending on the pulleys used. Remember to tighten the grub screw back up though when you have finished using the back gear!
And don't forget a spot of oil on the pulley/spindle interface to avoid problems, especially if you are going to do a lot of backgear work.
Jim. |
Thread: Best Book - Making SMALL live steam traction engine |
15/12/2012 08:58:53 |
Posted by Simon B on 27/11/2012 08:56:33:
Folks, As an ambitious newbie I'd love to settle into a live steam traction engine as a project. No pre-conception on size / type scale but I'd really like to do some background reading on what it takes etc. I have some turning / milling skills, less so on brazing etc but have the general concepts and am willing to learn! So - is there a definitive tomb or one that promised the earth but delivers little so to avoid? Simon,
Apart from the other books already mentioned, there's John Haining's book "Introducing model traction Engine Construction". It's not the blow by blow acount of the Mason book, but gives information about the construction of the major parts of a traction engine, with lots of references to his model engine series in the ME some years ago. It's probably worth having along with the other books and it's not too expensive.
Like yourself, I'm also contemplating building a small traction engine - a 1" scale version of one of John Haining's small tractor designs which will probably look more like a 3/4" scale road locomotive. As someone else noted, the boiler design is probably the major factor and that will be my main concern. I'll probably have to build a boiler first to check that it works before starting anything else on the engine.
Jim. |
Thread: Myford Super 7 |
28/10/2012 08:32:25 |
Posted by Douglas Johnston on 27/10/2012 09:29:33:
With current income and 1970 prices life would truly be pleasant. We can only dream. Doug
I remember that my basic ML10 with a three jaw, four jaw and Jacobs chuck cost around £200 - bought at the time of Ted Heath's three day week. The motor was got second hand from a dealer in North London, and the lot are still going strong today.
Jim. |
Thread: delcam help |
06/10/2012 20:47:40 |
Posted by mike mcdermid on 05/10/2012 19:31:50: However most models or files in educational versions of software cannot be opened by the full commercially licensed programs for example if i were to try and pen a file created in the educational version of PROe or Creo it will tell me the file type is not supported, similar with solidworks ,there is no way round this unless "you know what to amend in a txt editor" they expect you to buy a full 4-5k worth of software so delcam saying the good projects you want to use "commercially" it will cost 34 quid is a good-ish deal imho. Mike,
I noticed when digging around on Google that a £34 voucher might be obtained for a project which might contain a series of files, so the £34 might be able to be divided between several output files.
I dare say it depends on how much work you want to do with the software. If you aim to do a lot of work then multiple vouchers might bring you close to the cost of some other 3D packages. At least you have full use of the application to see if you can make it do what you want.
Jim. |
05/10/2012 12:40:17 |
Ronan,
I've just installed the program and also had a bit of a look around. The learning assistance within the program looks not too bad. The other manual file that you can download is actually a Windows help file in the .chm format, so not really a manual as such.
Also, the program is not really free. It is free to download, install and work on it, but it stores the work in its own format and it looks as though you have to purchase a voucher to export this work through another application into whatever file format you require. It looks as though a voucher for each project will cost you £34.
Jim. |
05/10/2012 09:10:48 |
Posted by ronan walsh on 04/10/2012 17:01:02:
Hey jim http://www.delcam.com/intlresp/powershape_dl.asp?from=PSHAPE Ronan,
Many thanks. I hadn't dug around enough to find that page.
Jim |
04/10/2012 10:38:03 |
Ronan,
Where did you get your free version? I've had a look on Google and can only find downloads of evaluation or demo versions which will probably stop working after a short period. Jim. |
Thread: Announcement from Arc Euro Trade Ltd. |
22/09/2012 09:08:10 |
Posted by clivel on 22/09/2012 03:14:57:
Posted by John Stevenson on 21/09/2012 19:53:47:But how can the sales guys do the internet orders if they are away at the show ?
Plus is something is packed and gos to the show, say a vise and it's ordered over the web site will the customer be prepared to wait 10 days until it gets back into physical stock ? That also means every sale either back at base or at the show has to be checked to see if the opposite site has sold it ? The point is that given a common web database it doesn't have to be checked to see if the opposite site sold it. If I located in Canada buy an item off the web site and you located in the UK buy an item off the web it comes out of the same database, selling from the show should be no different. Clive,
To carry on from what John Stevenson has said, the most important consideration is, possibly, where your stock is and how you are going handle it. There might also be a consideration about increasing stocking levels so that internet orders for stock items can all be handled from base while the same stock items are at an exhibition and available for purchase. Or you work off one overall source of stock and have a despatch operation running from the exhibition area to handle despatch of items from there. Therefore, if Ketan wanted to maintain the efficiency of his base operation during an exhibition visit, he might have to increase stock, or provide additional remote despatch facilities, or find more staff or have a combination of all three.
I'm not a retailer, so maybe I'm making wrong assumptions here, but I was in business for years and learned, sometimes the hard way, that apparently great ideas should be costed out before implementation.
Jim. |
Thread: Lubricating Myford ML10 Lathe |
21/08/2012 23:24:37 |
Posted by sfurini on 21/08/2012 15:16:13:
Thanks, Doug and Norman So I assume each time I use the lathe a few drops of oil in each cup and then every half hour or so should be ok. I've had a closer look and seen an oil nipple on the cone pulley which the manual says to lubricate half hourly when using the back gears - does this need one of the leaky pump action oilers? Then again, the manual I've got says to use lithium grease on the headstock bearings... Stewart,
That should be fine with your few drops of oil regularly. I actually modified my ML10 to put wick feed lubricators on the headstock bearings which meant cutting away parts of the belt cover to clear them. I got a bit paranoiac after running the countershaft bearings early on in the life of my lathe - I forgot to oil it. I fitted a new countershaft and oilite bushes and it's still going strong almost forty years later.
Myford did bring out an improved oil pump and it does work a bit better than the original one, in that a higher proportion of the oil actually seems to get into the nipple.
Jim. |
21/08/2012 13:03:05 |
Posted by sfurini on 21/08/2012 11:03:08:
Hi I've inherited a Myford ML10 lathe but sadly was not able to be given any instruction in its use by its previous owner. I've read the Ian Brady book a couple of times and watched lots of Tubal Cain videos on Youtube so I've got a fairly clear idea about how to use it but I'm not clear about lubrication. I've got the original Myford maintenance manual so I know where all the lubrication points are. My first question is about lubricating the headstock spindle bearings - do I need to tool to force the grease in or is it ok to push it in with my finger (clean of course!). Question 2 is about the tailstock barrel. There is a very small nipple with what looks like a very small ball bearing in - I'm guessing that the oil has to be put in through this nipple - what sort of oil gun do I need for this? I'm sure these fall well into the category of beginner questions! Many thanks in advance.
Jim. |
Thread: Drawings / Artcles |
26/07/2012 22:51:56 |
Posted by gedeon spilett on 26/07/2012 12:22:39:
In his book "projects for the Unimat", Rex Tingey published drawings an building notes for a 1/16 scale traction engine "Sweet Sixteen", at large a reduced version of Minnie but the engine of his own valveless design. I did it many years ago, replacing the ugly cylinder by a plain reduced version of the minnie cylinder and valve gears, a awkward and minute job I remember..but very happy with the result. you can see a picture in my picasa album.
I just found the original series of articles from the Model Mechanics magazine from this site. The five parts are here
.....and a follow up with an auxiliary hand pump
16mm:ft scale or, as near as dammit, 5/8" : ft.
Jim Edited By Jim Guthrie on 26/07/2012 22:54:13 |
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