Member postings for Frank Small

Hi Simon,

Thanks again for your interest.

Firstly its good that I have confirmation that I am not overlooking something

I think I now have a plan to do as little damage as possible.

I will make an aluminium clamp along the lines suggested by Jason that can be held in the vice against the T120

gear. One minor problem I anticipate is that the width of the clamp may not be wide enough to accommodate adequate clamping bolts, but I as sure I will think of something. What a lot of problems over what should not even be a problem.

Mind you I have now decided that I will now borrow a decent socket rather that the wrench supplied by Colchester which could reduce my difficulties down the line!!!!!!!

It is great to have such an exchange of ideas

Regards

Frank

Jason,

Thank you

I agree about the bronze

I will focus on trying to hold the small gear and the rack idea.

I also may reconsider if I can pin the gears together although it is rather small

Will let you know how I get on

Regards

frank

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

You are right Gear T120 is not splined. For that reason also I think jamming the gear train will not work, so it seems that holding the brass sleeve in the vice is the only option unless I can hold the small gear in a pipe wrench and accept any damage to that gear

What do you think?

Regards

Frank

Hi Guys,

Thank you all for your kind help.

I am now ready to ask the next question!!!!!

The instruction requires the mounting the 127 tooth gear outside the 120 gear , to do this the retaining nut must first be removed..

I purchased the lathe secondhand and the change gear 100T was replaced by a much smaller one about the size of the retaining nut (see photo and drawing below). The problem is that the gear is about the same size as the nut and I find it impossible to hold the gear (without damaging it) whilst I try to open the nut which is very tight. If the gear were larger say 100T it would be very easy to deal with it.

Any idea how I can hold the gear under the nut without damaging it. I have tried a (chain) strap wrench but it is too wide to retain the gear as the nut is very tight.

I look forward to you ideas.

Thank you

Frank

Hi Guys,

Thank you everyone for your kind help.

Now I am ready to ask the next question!!!!

The instructions require the mounting the 127 tooth gear outside the 120 gear

Hi Guys,

I now have a different problem relating to the same subject.

I simply want to attach a couple of views of the problem, is there an easy way. I can send it in any format jpeg etc.

Otherwise is there a tutorial on how to do so using this post system?

Thank you.

Frank

Thanks Guys,

I am sure that will solve my problem. I did not notice the 127 gear on the plate and also not realise that it is possible to place more than one gear on the same shaft.

Regards

Frank

Hi Guys,

I am trying to cut a 16 TPI thread using a Colchester Bantam 1600 Lathe for the first time.

It is fitted with a metric pitch lead screw (6mm)

The settings I have used are as follows as per information plate.

Gears

120 V-42 W-36

The Gear levers are T5

but I find that the measured TPI is aprox 18

I notice that there is also 127 adjacent to the 120 on panel. Could this be the problem. I am using a mandrel as I have no thread dial but I think that should not be causing the problem.

Any ideas would be very welcome

Thank you

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for your help.

It will take me time to follow up on your very useful suggestions but I would just like to respond to one comment/question.

This is my first attempt at a model engineering project and I thought it might be better to adhere to the BA system as per my instructions in case I created any unanticipated difficulties even though I was aware that metric has probably superseded the BA. Now I have a good selection of small BA taps and dies so I feel I am tied to that system for the present

Regards

Hi Guy,

I am presently building a Stuart V10 steam engine and am a relative beginner. I chose to use BA fasteners rather than metric.

U Tube's Tinker John suggested using screws with Allen key heads to ease trial assembly, an excellent suggestion, in my view.

Does anyone have any Idea where I could obtain miniature screws, either BA or Metric with Allen key heads suitable for the above task?

Thank you for your interest

Regards

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info Ian.

I sadly have another question. I am proceeding well with the Stuart engine and am taking my information from "Building a Vertical Steam Engine" by Andrew Smith Revised by Pengwren. However when I assemble the crank shaft, con rod, piston, column etc I find that on the top of travel the piston protrudes by nearly 6mm. The valve assembly seems fine and will be adjustable to carry out its function which indicates that the column is ok. Piston travel is 20mm which indicates that the throw is ok. I have measured all relevant components and even if I say so myself the dims are not bad. I am beginning to think that there may be an error in book and I have even checked the conversion from imperial to metric and can't find an error. My question:

is there an error in my work or in my information?

I look forward to your replies

Thank you

Hi Guys,

Just a quick update.

After a lot of consideration I decided to drill a further hole in the Steam chest housing and use the counter

sunk screw solution as suggestion in one of the posts. Excellent result. I adopted this solution as it was a

technique I could identify most with. Oh, by the way, what is alum and where could I get it.

Thanks again

Hi Guys

Many thanks for all that good advice and encouragement.

I like the idea of the hollow silver steel bit but will experiment first.

Possibly end up with using 3 holes, nice to know there are alternatives!!

Regards

Hi Everyone,

Just had a disaster. Drilled the cylinder for the steam chest screws.

I was tapping the 7BA holes and snapped it.

Is there any way I can recover the cylinder, the tap is broken off flush with the casting.

I guess, probably not, which gets me on to the second question which is, has anyone a casting surplus to requirements?

Thank you for your interest and hopefully a reply

Hi Dave,

Yes, you are correct

"Print this page" button that appears when you click on the page to zoom in ..

Do you have a solution?

Thank you for your interest

Regards

Frank

Hi,

My printer works fine on Word etc but not on Digital Model Engineer.

My PC OS is Windows 7 Premium Home

When I select print on the top of the page the menu shows my printer but fails to print.

When I check in to printer properties the file is not in the queue

Your advice would be greatly appreciated

Thank you for your interest

Regards

Hi Everyone,

Some time ago I subscribed to the digital version of either the Model Engineer of the Model Engineers Workshop . Now I wish to subscribe to the other one. Unfortunatly I cant remember which so I need to contact the admin staff.

I have searched for a link to admin but am unable to find one. Would someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction

Thank you