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Member postings for mick

Here is a list of all the postings mick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Problem with digital vernier
26/07/2011 08:25:48
Just a thought, when you have the jaws together can you see any light between them, ie. do the jaws appear to be touching at the top and not at the bottom. If so there should be a tiny adjusting screw on the top face of the body, this can be used to bring the jaws back together.
Thread: The perfect ME Lathe
18/07/2011 14:24:03
If your going to all the trouble of desigining the perfect lathe, then you should do away with change gears and have a decent tumbler gear box, with the cabability of delivering a good range of power feeds as well. One shot lubrication. Don't forget the powered cross slide, quick change and rear mounted tool posts. I'll proberly think of some more as soon as I've posted this!!
Thread: Low tempreture Ali welding
16/07/2011 16:19:12
Hi. David.
If you'r talking to the chap from Alutite perhaps you should suggest if he wants to sell his product he gets a website that responds to internet search. Have just bought 10 Lumiweld rods.
Regards.
Mick
16/07/2011 16:03:08
thanks for those, I Google as we speak.
Regards.
Mick
16/07/2011 14:33:53
I need to scratch the collective brain again. At the first ME exhibition I went to at Ascot three years ago, there was a small stand demonstrating low tempreture Aluminium welding using special thin rods, while the heat source was a standard blow tourch. As I remember the process was a bit like tinning with soft solder. I did take a flyer, but god knows where that is now. Does anyone have a web site, a sales e-mail address or any other information on the subject, as I now have a situation where it would be very handy.
Regards.
Mick
Thread: Mounting lathe tools at center height / operator error?
14/07/2011 17:40:46
I set tools by eye against a back centre, then refine it by turning to the centre of the bar untill the turning pip disappears, this is quite good enough, not so easy with parting tools as the component will fall away before the centre is reached. One more thing to add to my list of possible causes, is speed, this is V important. To calculate speed use:
 
Cutting speed of material X 12
Pi X diameter of work piece
 
Too slow will tend to produce ragged surface finish. Too fast will burn out HSS tooling, its all a question of balance, as to how the machine feels when your turning.
14/07/2011 08:11:43
It could be many things:
Are you using inserted tooling, pre-ground or hand ground cutters.
Is the tool overhanging the tool post.
Is the compound slide over extended.
Is the depth of cut too great.
Are you feeding by hand or with the machine traverse (perhaps the feed is too course)
One thing is for sure ALL tooling must be at centre height, the only exception is a trepanning tool, where it should be set slightly below.
Thread: Whittle V8 - Crankshaft
10/07/2011 09:08:59
Time is the one thing that doesn't matter, I seem to remember that my doubled up version took over two weeks of six hour days. Looks like your doing OK though
08/07/2011 10:50:49
i left mine as is and knocked off any burrs with a suitable file, I think its only a bit of draughman's licence. Glad to hear your progressing.
Thread: Indexable Tooling
30/06/2011 17:42:34
If this occuring while milling there are a couple of possibilities:
Wrong grade of insert and rake angle. A good positive rake will lift the swarf chips clear in a sprial flow
Tips are blunt, carbide is very brittle and will easily chip is used incorrectly
Are you running at the correct RPM and feed, as if the inserts are revolving two slowly they will start rubbing and blunt.
As cast dosn't create swarf, only fine chips there won't be a burr.
I assume the spindle is rotating clockwise and you are using a coolant or cutting oil.
Thread: Case Hardening - can't even harden a washer !
28/06/2011 09:24:04
I haven't tried any of the new range of case hardening powders, but using the old type of powdered bone we burnt the carbon into the steel after every emersion in the powder, then after three visits to the powder, quench, letting the part cool after dipping, in my view won't achieve anything.
 
Thread: Whittle V8 - Crankshaft
21/06/2011 18:43:20
Hi.
I've made a scaled up version of this engine and appreciate the problems you are having. I would suggest you do all the milling before you finish turn the journals. This is for two reasons, you will reduce the weight of the eccentrics and therefore the fly wheel effect, secondly you will also reduce the over all section, again reducing the eccentric effect. Dead slow speeds, geared if possible, very shallow cuts, plenty of cutting oil, will help cut down any vibration. It may seem odd, but if you increase the feed, this will sometimes stop the vibration from starting in the first place. My crank shaft took 18 days to machine complete. There is a great sence of satisfaction and relief awaiting you at the end of it all. Best of luck.
Mick.
Thread: Threading Inserts
10/06/2011 08:57:20
Not matter what type of tool you use for screw cutting, beit inserted or hand ground always take several "spring" cuts at finial depth, this will completely clean out the form. Full form are the best, but with all screw cutting the depth of cut must be applied incrementaly, getting smaller as you approach finial depth. Thread chashers are for finial forming of the thread and were used when all threading tools were hand ground. The chasher must be supported on a block of flat bar mounted in the tool post. By far the best method of finishing the thread form is with a fixed die, or die nut.
Thread: What was it used for
07/06/2011 16:49:02
Looks like a watch makers lathe, but I expect I'm wrong
Thread: Tooling questions for a KX1
23/05/2011 09:50:37
The size of collet chuck is realy goverened by the max tool diameter the machine is designed for, which is 12mm I have had an 18mm diameter running on my KX1 but that was held in a tool holder, which I prefer as you can build up a decent tool library, as they only cost around £8.0 from Arc Euro I don't think I'd be tempted to use slitting saws on it though
Thread: Machining what am I doing wrong?
23/05/2011 09:42:22
I assume that the work piece is supported by a back centre or pressure pad? Carbide isn't always the answer to every maiden's prayer, you need the right conditions regarding speed, which needs to be top range and feed, which also needs to be quick. Mild steel comes in many grades, I would hazzard a guess and say the steel you are machining is comercial BMS, which can be a problem, where inserted tooling needs high revs and feed to produce any kind of finish. Try Cobolt HSS tools, quite often the old tried and proven route is best.
Thread: Setting topslide to an angle
11/05/2011 18:41:44
For shallow tapers move the tail stock across on its tennons, there should be calibrations on the end of the tail stock body to give you an idea of position. Then place a true bar between centres and clock the fall with a DTI over a measured distance. The sine of a given angle is the fall over an exact inch, so if you are able to set the distance between saddle and bed stop with an exact imperial size spacer which is 2'' 3'' 4'' etc, the longer the better, then you can clock the fall by multiplying the sine value by the size of the spacer. Setting over the tail stock allows you to use power feed over an extended area, rather than using the jurky movement of the compound slide.
Thread: Cross slide lifts when parting off
03/05/2011 16:18:03
Have you tried increasing the top rake angle to assist the swarf to curl, as it sounds like a tool problem. speed is far too slow for a 20mm bar, try at least doubling it and hand feed in, this gives you time to react to any change in the tool cutting behaviour. I know it sounds wrong but Increasing feed and speed will quite often cure machining problems. Minium tool overhang, only enough unsupported blade to cut through, the blade must be completely parrallel to the chuck, part as close to the chuck as possible, if you have a live back centre use a pressure pad to help absorb any vibration, plenty of coolent delivered via a hand held oil can. If the tool still dips I think I might resort to a hacksaw
Thread: Machine shop night school?
01/04/2011 16:00:52
Your only just down the road from their Sittingbourne store.
regards.
Mick
31/03/2011 16:56:15
If your within driving distance of an Axminster store, they do courses several times a year
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