Member postings for Fowlers Fury

Neil, FF were aware of the issue months ago.
Can't claim to have been inconvienenced myself though.

Mozilla Support carried this page which appears to shift responsibility to a site's admin.

**LINK**

Re; "Doctors are not really too interested in you when you reach a certain age [our age ],and you can see it in their attitude when you need to visit them. It,s like someone bringing in a clapped out item in to you to get it repaired and you know there,s nothing you can do with it. They just want you out of there,so they give you a few pills and tell you to take one three times a day and come back next month or the year after."

It is unfortuate that Larry Phelan should feel that way about his treatment by GPs, but surely it is a gross generalisation. The local GP practices I've known have excellent attitudes to geriatric care.
Over the years I had eye surgery followed by complications for cataracts, detached retina, haemorrage and now glaucoma. The NHS as the local GPs in our health centre and the big teaching hospital's opthalmology dept have been caring, attentive and supportive.
Whilst knowing nothing about Larry's mobility or distances involved, perhaps he should consider changing GP.

I'm ever grateful for digital displays in the workshop these days and marvel at the workmanship of elderly watchmakers etc 200 years ago.

(Posted on behalf of MES member)

"I am rebuilding a Beam engine, when received the engine was in a dismantled state with no drawings whatsoever. It is 340mm wide x 650mm long x 440mm high (mounted on a base 453mm x 700mm) and will run on compressed air. The problem I have is linkage parts from slide valve (side of cylinder) to drive eccentric are missing, also there is a part with linkage arms on which it looks like some sort of damper system. Does anyone know where I can obtain information and/or advice to overcome these problems? Have attached some photos which hope will show the problem. Look forward to hearing from someone."

We all started out with enthusiasm but limited resources !
Two suggestions which got me started and proved worthwhile though maybe you've already tried them:-
(1) Join a local M.E. society that has a workshop and get chatting to members with clock interests.
(2) Though you'll have to wait until September, sign up for evening class at a school or college involving workshop use.
The lathes etc may have been abused but they'll enable you to become familiar with machine tools if you begin with a project such as a simple oscillating engine. You'd not be short of advice & guidance.

Back to the advice given to the OP ~ Geo. Thomas always struck me as a pragmatic model engineer and in the M.E. he wrote one article about the engagement of threads in studs and the thickness of nuts. As usual, he supported his claims with experimentation.. For example, he found "....for our purposes it is enough to know that an 8 BA (mild steel) thread will not strip if the length of engagement is rather more than half a diameter........(but) the figure of 1.25 to 1.5D which I have used is ample for its purpose".

Confirming the comments made by others above i.e. 1.5D in mild steel is enough.

That article and many other invaluable ones are reproduced in his "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual".

Doesn't answer your question and you've probably checked this out already:-
**LINK**

There is (used to be active & extensive) an "errors on drawings" section on the 'site but I couldn't find anything specific on LBSC;s Brit. It was a only cursory check though !

I can do without sulphuric in the workshop because apart from the obvious hazards, it's no good for descaling the boilers (forms insoluble calcium sulphate). But, I do use hydrochloric acid for efficient descaling (lime scale, Ag solder flux, removing copper oxides etc etc).
How long before that's added to the list - or has it been included already?

Never use 3-in-1 or similar 'household oil' because it will oxidise over time into "gum".
If you really feel the need to lubricate the micrometers then use a good quality clock oil like "Moebus".
Don't be tempted to buy cheap unbranded watch & clock oil, it can be as bad as the household stuff for gumming up the works ~ as I once found

Instead and despite the risks, have you not tried telling SWMBO it can't be done?

Duncan:-
'wasn't aware of your 'trick' ~ good one !. That below is a cut'n'paste from Word 2007 apart from the italic text.

Using Windows 10 with Calibri (Body) type face:-

(Alt+2300), release Alt = strange character like O with umlaut

“if you type 2300 then hold down the alt key and type x, release both and wait for a split second
it converts the 2300 to a diameter sign.” = ⌀

It's not the hand cleaning that's a problem, it's how to avoid an a***e-kicking from SWMBO after I've machined cast iron and washed my hands in the (utility room) sink leaving numerous rust marks which the recommended baking soda treatment doesn't remove.
I've tried explaining that a utility sink is just that, but to no avail. Instead it is suggested that I use 'my own' plastic bowl & tip the water outside.
Needs must when the devil drives.

As others above have discerned, just flip over. An improved version of your image shows the corresponding marks fairly clearly.
y

Neil,
Using FF v 60.0.1 and 64bit Win10 (with the damned 1803 update ~ but let's not go there), I have no problems loging in.
FF saves your passwords so have you deleted old ones as per Mozilla guidance:-
**LINK**

Raphael,
Running with a "slack" belt does have some value. It'll slip if your cut is too agressive and/or you get a dig-in thus reducing stress on your 1ph motor.
What oil are you using in the countershaft oil cups? Mine empty quite quickly when running & need regular topping up. The bearing though does not get hot to the touch.
Another useful and relatively inexpensive modification is to use a multi-link belt in place of the standard V belt. The lathe will run smoother and impose a bit less strain on the counter shaft.

Re 'RicherdN's' posting above ~ all very true...
Laser cutting steel can (will?) affect temper of steel along the cuts.
A tough crust has been formed on ms parts I've had laser cut.
When I've specified a hole position on a CAD drawing, a small cross on its centre has been cut on the returned item.
Usual disclaimer, but why not ask Malcom High of Model Engineers Laser ? I've always found him helpful - if invariably busy !
**LINK**

Also there was a thread here on the topic in 2013:-
**LINK**

Re. Ian P's posting

I claim no originality for the method, just my adaption of a published way to ensure a mill head was reset to a predetermined position.When critical work is undertaken then I have often checked vice jaw alignment with parallel and 'finger' dti. The laser spot was always on target. The method takes no account of ambient temperature effects on the mill table & vice. But I offer it only as a not-so-rough and ready method of quick alignment which is certainly capable of improvement.

How does this idea work?
<>
That once set accurately, the laser will reposition the vice jaws parallel to the X axis.

When you wind the table out what does it stop against?
<> The table on my mill comes to a "dead hard stop" when wound out so no uncertainty.

How do you know the laser beam axis is truly parallel or concentric to its outer casing?
<> I don't but since it's always placed in the vice jaws at the same position as it was when the vice was initially set accurately with parallel and dti, I don't see it as an issue.

How rigid is the wall or the machine mounting, say its a wooden floor or flimsy shed.
<> FWIW - concrete floor, double thickness brick walls, mill on a steel framed bench.

Edited By Fowlers Fury on 30/05/2018 22:36:17

NDIY ~ "How far away is your wall?"
Answer:- governed by my old-age myopia . I need to be able to see the 'target'.
It's about 10' from the mill but obviously the farther away the better in terms of accuracy. Here's 2 images, the 2nd (poor quality one) shows the 'target' on edge of a shelf. I found that a piece of that self-adhesive aluminium foil was best. The laser pointer was a cheap, red beam one but has a tough alloy body. In use you have to remember to ensure the table is 'wound out' fully of course or it'll give rise to erroneous settings.

Drifting off-topic a little to lining up the milling vice......
I'm with Clive F's 4th para "Personally I'm not great lover of keyed vices.... etc"
Easiest & quickest way I've found is to lightly grip a (dedicated) laser pointer in the vice jaws, wind out the table to its stop, rotate vice until laser lines up with mark on workshop wall and then tighten down.
(To accurately position the mark on the wall the first time, needs an accurate parallel in the vice and a dti).

As a long-term user of FF, the browser has served me well.
Of course there have been numerous pleas that Adobe Flash should be abandoned by websites due to its vulnerability. I do though have the"Shockwave Flash" plugin set to 'Ask to activate' in FF.
FF "Quantum" has the following under "Extensions":-

When I look under FF "Add ons" for Flash, they appear to my ignorant view as being tailored for YouTube etc.
As the OP has used another browser as I suggested and not had a problem with access the issue has gone away for him. As before, for sites which don't display correctly I just load with Edge, which I don't like.
Anyway, I increasingly use browsers (including FF) within 'Sandboxie' which I suppose is overkill because both Edge and FF are supposed to have their own sandboxes. Nevertheless, 'Sandboxie' is reassuring and easy to use. Two clicks on 'clear default box' after browsing and everything is deleted.
**LINK**
 

(edit for line spacing)

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Edited By Fowlers Fury on 25/05/2018 12:44:46

"Flash is a Plug-in....." I didn't write otherwise.

Raymond ~ as before, latest Firefox handles or doesn't Flash on websites.
It's explained here:-

**LINK**