Member postings for Nishka

You could always fit an auto drain like this:

Picture from Mig-Welding.co.uk - link: **LINK**

Plenty on eBay for under £20.00

Nishka (must get one for my compressor!)

Edited By Nishka on 08/12/2017 14:23:13

Edited By Nishka on 08/12/2017 14:24:01

I have a lever tailstock attachment for sale with my ML7 lathe in the classifieds section here - **LINK** - If anyone is looking for one!

Sorry for the blatant hi-jack of the thread

Robin you may like to look at this site for Dog earplugs!

dog-ear-plugs

More useful to the original question I use a company called 34SP who are based in Manchester. They have always been good for me and you can actually call and speak to them on the phone.

I can thoroughly recommend attending this museum, which was build and created through the hard work of the members of the Northern Mill Engine Society.

The museum holds 27 stationary engines rescued from mills all over the country and restored and returned to working condition by the members.

The original museum opened in 1983, but had to be relocated 7 years later do to site redevelopment. This necessitated the dismantling and moving of all the display engines to the new Engine House.

More information can be found, and donations made at the Society’s website - **LINK**

Nishka (joined the NMES in 1978 as a 14 year old!)

As said in thte post above!

Nishka

Just a quick update on Chorley Bottle Gas Ltd. Talking to Steve (the owner) yesterday (while collecting a 25L Argon 5% Mix) and he assures me that the prices on his website are inclusive of VAT. He is able to offer Pure Argon, Argon 5% Mix, Oxygen and Nitrogen in 10L, 20L 25L and 50L bottles. All bottles have a deposit of just £50 and gas costs are:

Pure Argon:

10L - £30.00 (2200Ltr Capacity)

20L - £55.00 (4400Ltr)

25L - £68.75 (5500Ltr)

50L - £100.00 (11000Ltr)

Argon 5% Mix, Oxygen and Nitrogen:

10L - £25.00 (A-2200Ltr, O-2100Ltr, N-1900Ltr)

20L - £50.00 (A-4400Ltr, O-4200Ltr, N-3800Ltr)

25L - £62.50 (A-5500Ltr, O-5250Ltr, N-4750Ltr)

50L - £90.00 (A-11000Ltr, O-10500Ltr, N-11000Ltr)

Chorley Bottle Gas are able to deliver in a large part of Lancashire free of charge.

Gas-UK are also offering Acetylene in 10Ltr bottles with a deposit of £100.00 and a fill charge of 82.80 having a capacity of 1780Ltrs.

Hope this helps

Nishka

Really?

Is the world a safer place now? I doubt it!

Pathetic.

Just remember the old proverb:

All mushrooms are edible...

Some only once!

Thaks for all the answers and suggestions guys, a lot to think about. As to the thread being Acme or square - my understanding is (and I amy well be completely wrong on this) that in a square thread the Root and Crest widths would be equal at 1/2 the pitch. Given that the pitch is 0.20" then this figure would be 0.10".

On the other hand, an Acme threads Root and Crest is equal to 0.3707 x pitch, giving a Crest width of 0.0754" and a distance between crests of 0.1246".

I realise that the method od measurement shown below is far from ideal or accurate but I believe to shows enough information to determin that the thread is an Acme one.

The distance betwiin the two yellow arrows is close to 1/8" and the distance between the two blue arrows is significantly less than 1/10". To me this looks like being closer to 0.1246" and 0.0754" than to equal distances of 0.10".

An alternative would be to fabricate both the leadscrews and the nuts and changethe pitch to 1/2-10tpi. If I also fitted a graduated handwheel I could have measurable movement!

Thanks for the link, those are the parts I need but as you say a tad expensive. They may be my last resort though. I can get an awful lot of brass for £200 and spend some time cutting them on my Myford.

If I go this route what is the best method of cutting a 5tpi internal thread and should the nut be brass or bronze? It looks like brass on the originals, at least to my very untrained eye!

I'm pretty sure it is Acme and not square, what do others think?

If it is Acme then it is not a 'standard' thread, being 1/2"-5tpi.

Edited By Nishka on 03/08/2016 16:12:43

It is not so much the cost (athough that may not be viable for a one of use) it is finding a tap for 1/2" 5 tpi Acme thread.

I like the home made tap idea though and that could be do-able with a 5tpi thread cutting tool.

Thanks for the quick response Clive. I am not sure I understood 80% of it but thanks anyway. That's why I added it to the bigginers questions.

I am in the process of restoring a Taylor-Hobson CXL Engraver from 1955, like this one:

The leadscrew nuts (there are obviously 3 of them) are worn. On inspection the leadscrews themselves look to be in great condition.

My question is how do I go about cutting an internal thread on replacement brass nuts? The thread looks to me to be a single start 1/2" x 5tpi Acme.

Thanks in advance.

Edited By Nishka on 03/08/2016 12:58:17

Edited By Nishka on 03/08/2016 12:58:49

Edited By Nishka on 03/08/2016 13:17:39

I would have thought the mouse would like cheesy jokes!

Thanks Jason, that looks just the job.

The bored out block of metal would also serve to centre the hex broach tool, as well as prevent bursting of the rod.

Brill, now all I need to do is order the material and start making holes!

If the part I required was a one off, then the idea suggested by Chris, of recasting would probably be the root I would take. However,for several hundred it may not be very practical.

Jason is exactly right these are switch knobs that are 'pinned' to a hex shaft of a switch. They need to look exactly like the originals.

The link to the Col.849/TM polyester resin rods is the very sort of material I am thinking about. This is unreinforced polyester rods.

Thanks for the ideas guys.

The product is primarily for show but must also function in its own right. The original was a cream coloured Bakelite product, so Polyester was chosen as a suitable alternative. Although I am open to suggestions for a more suitable material.

Edited By Nishka on 27/10/2014 12:03:26

Thank you for all the replies, as has been said they are all food for thought.

I think that given the envisaged number to be produced and the facilities I have in hand, that broaching on the lathe will be the way forward.

Thanks Bazyle, John and Jeff, between your answers I image I can get a working solution.

Casting with a draft is not really an option, as the final product has to be a 'snug' fit on a 1/4 hex shaft. Broaching six individual sides would be workable if it was only a small quantity.

It looks like I will have to look into making some 1/4" hex broaches, possibly in increasing size as suggested by Jeff. I also like the idea of the homemade boring tool from Bazyle. It may not be possible to place intermittent relief cuts as the side walls are quite thin, less than the 1.5mm suggested for the boring tool. However the piece tapers outwards towards the bottom of the hex hole so this is a distinct possibility.

Thanks again for the replies. Once I have made a few I will put up some pictures.

Nishka