Member postings for Oily Rag

The problem may be that the voltage will need to be below 13.2V before the relay triggers for the fan and interior light circuit. The dual charging relays are designed to prioritise the vehicle battery over and above the accessory battery. So on initial start in winter the alternator will supply the main vehicle battery at, say, 14V if the cranking has drained the battery and it will not start to supply voltage to the auxilliary circuit until the battery is sufficiently charged and is only drawing 13.2V. EDIT : just noticed the charge parameters are 13.3V to 12.65V

As Noel says - just link it to IGN pos2

Martin

Edited By Oily Rag on 07/10/2021 17:58:53

Methyl Dichloride - strips paint off anything (including wood!) but when used with aluminium you need to monitor the process as it will attack the aluminium. I use it for cleaning carburettors as it is the only stuff I know which will remove petrol 'varnish' - the casting come out looking like new after about a 2 hour soak. Works even better when heated. Available from chemical suppliers.

PS don't breathe the fumes and wash thoroughly in detergent after stripping. Wear PPE.

Martin

Edited By Oily Rag on 07/10/2021 17:48:42

Where does the 140 Amps quoted come from? Is it the winch consumption? or is it the fuse box rating? Do you not want the interior light to work when the engine is not running? I can understand the fan not being required when engine 'off' but I would have thought the interior light would ideally be switchable at all times.

I also do not understand exactly what you mean by a voltage sensitive relay! Do you really mean the AWL relay (Alternator Warning Light)? Or do you mean a dual charging relay as used with caravans, which only charges the accessory battery when the main vehicle battery is consuming less than 13.2V?

A brief sketch of the circuits to be employed would be helpful as well.

Martin

Fuling Electrical do appear when I search but only on the 'website whose name is not allowed here' where there are several merchants advertising the units. As I am aware that there are numerous manufacturers of VFD's in China and whose products surface in the markets in the West as 'badged' by well known organisations - I have therefore taken some photographs to see if anyone recognises the product as 'by another name'. I know that Tiain Electric type N2 'T-Verters' are also marketed as 'Westinghouse' in the USA, and I believe the ABB inverters are also sold in China under their home manufacturers name.

Here are the views of the Fuling inverter:-

Front view:

Rear view:

Underside view:

Terminal cover removed:

Apologies about the landscape orientation rather than portrait!

Martin

Help! - I have acquired a Fuling Electric & Machinery Ltd,. 0.75W (1 HP) 240 V single phase to 3 phase VFD. Unfortunately it came with no instruction manual, the one originally supplied was in Chinese and that is why I suspect it has never been used.

The VFD is a model number DZB60B007L2B - anyone got a manual by any chance (preferably in English! ) or know where I might find one?

Martin

James:-

I have sent you a PM

Mike:-

My experience of JV companies in China is that they are totally influenced by the Chinese management, this applies to German companies as to all other foreign investors in Joint Venture organisations. I dealt with a famous German piston manufacturer with a Chinese JV and even though it carried the German trademark they had very little input to 'failure determination' as the German parent company charged high fees for their skills (the only way to extract money for the parent company ). We had catastrophic piston failures which I was responsible for determining the causes. I was the fifth engineer to visit the China JV in Qingdao to review their process and procedures. I surprised the 'Kwality' team there by asking to see the raw stock delivered in to them (no one preceding me had done this - just looking at the casting process ). I had had a piston examined by a metallurgist who was ex AWQA and was a consultant to one of the top piston manufacturers in the UK. His report highlighted areas of entrapped dross, small ferrous inclusions (namely steel swarf and carbide chips ) but interestingly undissolved balls of copper within the metallic structure. This indicated poor quality feedstock in the process and a melt furnace with insufficient heat to fully dissolve the copper seedings needed to correctly alloy the piston.

The raw material I found to be abysmal - the last stillages off a delivery were covered with sacking and underneath were ingots of total dross (literally ). Then I turned to the furnace melt temperature records and after some time the Chinese eventually found a page for me from a date I had requested giving the 24 hour temperature monitoring data. The hand written notes struck me as falsified, I asked how much they paid the inspector, when they asked why I asked that I pointed out the same person had written the sheet for the whole 24 hour period in the same pen!

So, my take on this is that anything made by a reputable Western company in China has little bearing (no pun ) on the quality of the product!

Whilst agreeing that payment for items needs to be reasonable for an expected quality product - I found bearings which were within my expectations for reputation at a wholly reasonable cost. £60 - £70 pounds for a new old stock bearing is excessive! £13 odd on average for 4 bearings is liveable with. A drill is after all a semi precision tool.

Martin

Dave,

I had heard that it is a no-no to mix Hammerite paints as they will not mix colour wise (giving a scattered and streaked colour to the paint finish); I expect that someone has done this with an old tin and a new tin, Presumably fresh pain may mix though? I'll try some light blue mixed with Japlac black and see what that does - it is what I currently have and they are both of a similar age.

James,

Re-reading your earlier post it struck me that the alignment issue of the lower pulley bearing, which is held in a floating steel pressed cup, could be an issue. I realised the steel cup which holds the lower pulley bearing needed slackening off to allow the puller assembly to find it's own seating. In my notes on the re-build I had quite a job to get the spindle assembly to line up - and the overarm was not bolting down snugly: I had left the dowel pins in and tried fitting them in place, in the overarm, as I bolted the overarm back to the head casting - with the lower bearing plate loosened off I took the dowels out and bolted the overarm down lightly before lightly driving the dowel pins in from the top. This cured all the binding. There is a definite procedure to the build with these machines!

Another point to beware of is the bull gear detent pin can become locked if the latching plate overshoots whilst assembling the spindle pulley assembly prior to the bearings being pressed on.

Martin

James,

I missed the back end of this thread whilst away on holiday. I see you had just under a 1mm clearance between the top AC bearing and the underside of the circlip. Is this possibly down to the 'Zen' (never heard of these before! ) bearing being undersize in assembled width?

When I was replacing my bearings I searched around for known makes - I was offered 'Charlie' bearings for around £8 to £10 each, but genuine Hoffman, FAG, or similar were priced around £60 to £70 each! This was from a well known bearing supplier based in Norwich. I then tried two local suppliers of Vintage bearings who both offered known makes for all 4 spindle and pulley assembly bearings for a total of £55 (and threw in new circlips for the price ).

Just for reference for other QDM 750 owners the pulley assembly bearings are:- Top bearing EE9 or KNLJ1 (1" x 2" x 3/8" ) and the lower bearing is a Hoffman LS25N or equivalent (25mm x 52mm x 9.3mm ). These are both narrow light journal open ball races of 3/8" width.

I have now decided that I ought to finish the re-build by re-painting the machine and have been trying to match the original Hammerite hammered finish paint which appears to be a deep blue/charcoal grey colour. I suspect this was specially made for Q&S as I have so far had no luck sourcing any suitable paint from Hammerite. Has any one tried mixing Hammerite - I suspect I might need to mix Black and Light Blue to get a suitable shade. The belt guard also seems to be an 'Aluminium' hammer finish as opposed to the Hammerite Silver. I think this calls for a touch of black mixing with silver to get the desired colour.

Anyone have any experience of mixing Hammered paints?

Martin

What's this about calculators - I thought modern phones had replaced cameras and calculators in one fell swoop!

Martin

William,

From the picture in your last post it looks like the head is in dire need of a skim to remove the bruise across the water transfer plug! Not to mention the dints across the rest of the head face.

I'm also surprised that you are not modifying to 11 stud fixing (the cores are in place in the head to allow these to be drilled thru ).

Is this an A+ head? If so, is it the 'improved water flow type' with the increased size galleries; these had a rather negative affect on water flow when combined with the blanked off rear heater feed outlet (using a sandwich plate under the thermostat housing to take off the water feed to the cabin heater ). The rear two cylinders ran considerably hotter due to the 'decreased water flow' at the rear of the engine which could result in seizure or valve problems - another Longbridge 'faux pas'!!

Also I would question your chamber capacity requirements - you stated 25 odd cc was required, have you added in the deck height and gasket capacity to the 8cc piston bowl. By my reckoning for 9.75:1 CR you will need a total chamber capacity (including piston bowl, deck height allowance and gasket ) of 36.5cc. Must admit it has been nearly 60 years since I worked on 'A' series though.

Martin

Better still the Chinese tailors Inch!

I had a suit made in Shanghai and when they measured me up my waist was 30" and inside leg was 27" - I was delighted that my waist had shrunk but not so pleased about the loss of 5" height! On questioning the tailor it turned out their Inch is based on 30mm!!!!

Martin

Try getting a replacement 2' x 18" manhole cover!

When the galvanised steel one in my garden rotted away (taking with it into the sewer the wife's prize plant pot and contents) I was unable to buy a replacement. To get over this I had a mate with a bending machine make me up one in 2.5mm plate. The Builders Merchant told me the only way to replace these manhole covers was to fit the metric ones which meant rebuilding the top of the brickwork to suit the new cover and its frame. My mate now knocks out batches of imperial covers of 50 a time and they sell like hot cakes!

Martin

Posted by SOD:-

I'm sure part of the problem is that standard threads are intended for fasteners rather than the screw on fittings found on lens, bottle tops, and proprietary attachments.

According to my thread 'bible' (P.A.Sidders - Guide to World Screw Threads - ISBN 0-89381-1092-9) there is a welter of standards for threads covering 'fittings' other than straight forward fasteners. For example, the 'German Bottle Closure Thread series', the 'British Bottle Closure Thread - Glass and Plastic containers', the Cordeaux thread for telegraph insulators, Water Well casing threads, Fire Hose Coupling threads, Edison Screw thread for Lamps, and a real odd one the 'British Water Tap shank rope thread'. These all being of non Whitworth form. Miscellaneous Whit forms are listed as - Condenser tube glands, Oil Drum plugs, Endoscope Lamp housings, Microscope Objectives and nose pieces, Oil Switchgear (?), Optical Instruments (Fine motion and Adjustment), Optical Instruments (metal tubes, cells and fittings), Camera Lens fitting flanges (R.P.S Standards) and finally Electrical Conduit Thread!

I remember that many moons ago when working at Alfred Herberts there was a tooling job for either India or Malaysia (but could have been China) where they wanted to manufacture water taps, the shank of the tap was the aforementioned 'British Water Tap shank rope thread' - we found the standard to this was a very early BS number (something like BS14 or so) dating from the earliest days of the BSI.

Martin

I have just had a call from Virgin Media (allegedly) informing me that my router had a serious problem, a very pleasant Indian fellow told me - they had detected the problem in my connection speed. He said he was a technician that needed to check my router software as there was a definite problem with it. I played him along (I have Sky Internet!)

First thing I said was "send me a new router then, if there is a problem with it". "Oh, but I need to check the software on it first" he said. "But you told me you have checked it already - just send me a new router, you have the address" "No, I need to check it remotely, please switch on your device and go to the following address".

Now this is where they take control of your PC and search for all your bank details and data. I carried on playing him along by pretending to switch on and doing as he said. I told him the address he had given me was blocked as being an insecure and dangerous site. "What fire wall do you have?" he asked. I told him "Double Ace" - this threw him as he had never heard of it (neither have I - I made it up on the spur of the moment). I then said if you are a technician you should have heard of it - it is to stop scammers and fraudulent people. He then asked if I had a internet speed reader programme - I said yes - he asked me to run it and tell him the upload and download speeds, I made him wait while I pretended to load the programme. The told him the speeds were 350 Mbs download and 415 Mbs upload - he said "there is the proof that there is a problem!" - I told him that the reason is down to internet bandwidth usage within my area and background programmes running on my PC. I again told him to send me a new router if there was a problem and if there is an issue with the software you can re-programme it from his end, no need for me to intervene.

After keeping him on line for the best part of 30 minutes he eventually hung up on me! It's a great game to play on these bar stewards!

Martin

Regarding wood - I've never understood why it is sold in 1.2 mtr, 2.4 mtr lengths! I assume it is because it is impossible to divide by 3 in the 1, and 2 mtr lengths. Strange that they should decide on such an anomaly in a 10 base system.

Likewise there is little uptake of the metric 400 grad divisions within a circle, although I have come across this weird division for circular definition in the Bosch engine management system for engine control to define crankshaft angularity - it caused mayhem before it was realised that a grad was not comparable to degrees.

Martin

An interesting 'discovery'! I liked the bit in the NBS letter Circular about the alloying of copper - one of the most difficult materials I have ever had to machine has been CuBe (Copper Beryllium alloy of 1.5% Beryllium) which would blunt a HSS hacksaw in a few strokes and would require the very sharpest carbide to stand a chance of lasting. It has some amazing properties such as a very high capability to dissipate heat allied to a high wear resistance, hence its use as a valve seating material and guides in race ICE engines. Meanwhile Beryllium when alloyed with Aluminium (with small amounts of Nickel, Magnesium, Copper and Titanium) makes an exceptionally strong piston material with exceptionally high strength at elevated temperatures.

The sad aspect of all this is that Metallurgy as a subject has all but disappeared from British University courses, one of the UK's leading establishments was Sheffield's Metallurgy Department which closed a number of years ago.

Martin

James,

Sorry for the delay in responding.

I have now had a chance to dig my workshop notes out on this rebuild - unfortunately I no longer have any photographs (the curse of mobile phones that get broken, lost, or stolen!) but from my notes I measured the distance between the bearing shoulders of the spindle quill and also the depth of the retaining circlips, the upper (AC bearing) clip gave a +0.004" clearance on bearing outer race width. I did consider packing this but eventually settled for 'as it was' condition.

The way I see it the AC bearing supports the mandrel and the lower DGB 'floats' to accommodate the upper bearing. I used a Hoffman RLS8-V3 DGB and a SKF 7302 BEP AC. With it all assembled the end float was zero - I believe the end float you have experienced may have been caused by the AC bearing wearing through lack of lube, this will introduce end float. I would certainly recommend you check the gap between the top retaining circlip and bearing to ensure a close fit. A spring 'wobble' washer could be used if it is excessive. Also worth replacing the circlip if it is damaged in any way.

Let us know how you get on.

Have you any response about a manual?

Martin

PS - my method of assembly was to press in the AC top bearing into the quill, then supporting the inner race of the AC press in the mandrel which had the DGB bearing pre-fitted to the quill shoulder dimension, when the DGB outer race was ready to go into its housing I tapped it in gently as the mandrel was still under load. The upper bearing was as I said in the earlier post an 'easy' fit due to the corrosion from being in the elements. The drill has been fine with a very quiet spindle and no overheating.

Edit for PS

Edited By Oily Rag on 19/08/2021 18:31:05

James,

I also have a QDM750 which was gifted to me some years ago (because it had stood outside a famous (now defunct) car factory for many years and had been considered scrap). I rebuilt it and from memory the DGB bottom bearing acts as the locator for the spindle whilst the AC top bearing takes the axial load when drilling. The bearings which came out of mine were totally shot after being weathered and after cleaning up the spindle, the fit into the inner race of the top bearing was less than I would have preferred, Loctite bearing fit coming to the rescue - but it has all worked well enough. Which bearings did you fit as there was a late model change from the earlier bearings which, I believe, was a change to the tolerance class? Never seen anything definitive on this but was told this by a reputable M/C Tool rebuilder.

Have you managed to find an operators manual for it? The Tony site only provides the advertising literature as seen in the write up on the QDM range of drills.

Lovely bit of kit by the way.

Regards,

Martin

NDIY,

I;m with you on this - I can't abide anything to do with YT as it is totally destroying peoples ability to think things through in a logical manner. This, to a large extent, is reflected in the OP's continual grasping for the Holy Grail as his posts show. I never bother to look at any of the self serving BS that is posted on YT - sorry but it is, to my mind, all 'Anti Socia'l Media with a very dark edge to it.

The only way to get knowledge is through reading and applied conceptual thought, we do not 'deep' learn from visuals because the basic thought process has been by passed.

It used to annoy me intensely when I was told that 'presentations' had to be MPP visuals with plenty of pictures and no detailed writing, just straight forward 'non sentences' abbreviated into bullet points. What utter Twaddle! I persisted in writing 'papers' which started with a proposition, examined the caveats, weighed up the competing arguments and delivered a reasoned conclusion. Problem was the majority of graduates were too thick to comprehend what had been written because they lacked the vocabulary of their mother tongue.

Martin

PS I like the analogy!

William,

Stop faffing about and do the job properly! Bits of brass shim is a 'bodgers' answer to the pulley problem. Bore it out with a slight recess and make a top hat bush which is a good press fit into the pulley, remount and finish bore to the 3/4" bore.

Then put a keyway into the bush to suit - use the toolpost to mount a keywaying tool then by taking 0.005" cuts shave the keyway to size (obviously you don't run the spindle for this and its best to lock the spindle in position ) by hand feeding the tool through the bore.

That gets the pulley sorted!

Re-con the motor with new bearings and refit it. Whilst awaiting the motor mount brackets use a car jack to support the outer overhung end of the motor.

You will need a good vice for using that 3" slab mill! Not my choice for a small hobby machine as they are more suited to high horsepower industrial machines where time is money. I have a wide selection of slab mills that I don't think I've ever used.

Martin