Here is a list of all the postings Bill Rule has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Just saying Hello |
23/08/2014 00:20:26 |
It's only a matter of time before a (grand)child asks: "What's sucking eggs?" |
Thread: Please Sir; can you tell me what this is? |
20/09/2011 13:10:16 |
I have a couple Warren & Brown chucks, but the box this came in is from
Bosse & Eunson, General Woodworkers, Cr Hampstead Rd & Richards Rd, Maidstone
I was ALMOST going to say that that is in KENT, then I checked...it is in Melb's West Suburbs. That explains why the ply was some tropical crap, not at all what I expected from an English artisan. ![]() |
20/09/2011 13:01:10 |
That's what I was hoping. The two shorter straight bars appear to have about half a morse-taper on the end; a size 1MT and size 2 MT. The exposed end is slightly domed, and has a small hole like a mini centre-drill hole. Between the two, I wonder if it allows the headstock and tailstock to be both "plugged" leaving the centre holes in each? That doesn't explain why the long part that would then be inside the head and tailstocks is necessary. |
20/09/2011 10:11:25 |
I dunno what it is, but it WAS a bargain ![]() ![]() |
Thread: Is it abuse if I...........? |
04/06/2011 13:31:04 |
Thanks everyone, I have a better idea now; I wasn't actually reaming anything at the time. I have just obtained a quality small tapwrench, and actually got my first reamers, so was tempted to use the wrench, but had that disconcerting feeling that I was falling for a beginner's trap. I think I have a better-balanced appreciation of the relative "agressiveness" of tap vs reamer.
Cheers,
William |
01/06/2011 10:08:39 |
Hi all. Generally, I can get on with the job in hand, working out what I need to from first principles or trial and error, but some things give me pause. Specifically, the tap wrench looks perfect to useon a hand-reamer; but there must be a point that the torque exceeds what is healthy for the wrench. I feel that a 5/8 reamer would require a lot more power than a 5/8 tap, or am I worrying over nothing |
Thread: Fixing metal dowels |
25/01/2011 23:26:55 |
Posted by Terryd on 25/01/2011 22:32:43:
Hi Neil.
I remember those dowel ends well, we used bought in ones. Sometimes my toolmakers used tallow instead of grease, (Yuk!!) it was freely available because the electricians used it as a lubricant when cutting threads on conduit tubing and it would liquefy easily under the heat generated when compressed with a hammered dowel. I can remember the smell still.
![]() Best regards
Terry yes, isn't it wierd that what you did with the keys 5 minutes ago is a complete blank, but some smell from eons back still remain as sharp as they ever were. |
25/01/2011 23:22:00 |
Posted by KWIL on 25/01/2011 16:55:18:
In the construction notes for GHT Scribing Block as set out in the GHT Model Engineer's Workshop Manual (page 24), these two holes are drilled 1/16" and the MS pins dropped in and the two blocks are SILVER SOLDERED. Edited By KWIL on 25/01/2011 16:56:30 Aha; that's interesting. If I get brave enough' I might give that a crack. Thanks for the (ultimate) reference material, much appreciated.
Bill |
25/01/2011 15:24:25 |
Very well chaps, I'll give the classical tight fit option a spin and see if it works in this application. I can always revert to the dreaded Loctite if needs must.
Thanks for the lesson; you now have only yourselves to blame for what will probably be an unending trickle of mundane inquiries from me.
Cheers,
Bill
|
24/01/2011 13:42:20 |
I think I obtained a kit for G. Thomas'' scribing block under the impression that the 2 x A3 pages would have any details required for a well-read novice; but that proved a little optomistic. Part of the construction involves the (permanent) coupling of two machined pieces (presumably precluding soldering). The plans indicate 2 dowels of fine silver steel, but with no detail on fixing. Would it be simply a loctite job?
Thanks in anticipation. Bill |
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