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Member postings for Alan Worland

Here is a list of all the postings Alan Worland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Morse Taper Removal
14/12/2011 22:41:58
I must admit I usually hit the drawbar nut with a copper/hide mallet and it comes out ok
On the mill attachment I tend to try and support the column before whacking.
I think basically I am over tightening.
I like the idea of a jacking out fitting on the opposite end although I would have to do a bit of modifying.
Dont the wedges cause damage? I have only experienced wedges for removing track rod ends - never again!
 
Alan
14/12/2011 21:19:29
I think I might be seriously over tightening things!
Thanks - I will go easy on the drawbar nuts.
 
Alan
 
Come to think of it I have drilled some pretty large holes from the tailstock relying only on the taper and never had a chuck move.
14/12/2011 21:00:47
I have various bits of tooling which use the No 2 taper on my lathe and milling attachment, a variety of collets, fly cutter and boring head, all of which use a drawbar to pull the device into the socket.
This is all works fine and I try not to do the drawbar up too tight, but I dont want it to slip. How tight is tight enough?
Is there a more considerate and gentle method of removing the tooling without wacking the end of the drawbar? which seems a bit crude!
 
Alan
Thread: Myford / RDG
08/12/2011 21:08:46
I use a telcalemit gun on my ML7 with no mods (might even be an oil gun!) and it works a treat, especialy the nipples that supply the saddle/bed ways. The only problem i have with it is it doesn't hold a great deal of oil!
 
Alan
Thread: Missing Myford
08/12/2011 20:59:51
I contacted him and asked if he was serious - said it was wrong and should be £1200!!
 
Alan
06/12/2011 22:50:30
Sandown Park will be my first Exhibition I will be attending without Myford.
Been going for years (Dad, brother and son) and at each Myford stand we all drool over the equipment and admire the superb finish.
I have an early ML7 which serves me well with a lot of accessories including the Mill attachment but I used to really enjoy their stand - it will be missed.
 
Alan
Thread: Reaming in the Lathe/Drilling M/C
08/11/2011 23:21:36
Thanks for that. I have mostly hand reamers.
Is it not the done thing to use these under power?
 
Alan
08/11/2011 21:56:57
When I am reaming a hole I have just drilled/bored in the lathe I tend to put a centre in the tailstock to locate the end of the reamer put an adjustable spanner on the square which rests against the top slide preventing rotation.
I locate the reamer in the hole and pull the chuck round bt hand while keeping the tailstock located in the reamer and feed it through.
Is this good practice? or should I be running it through under power?
 
Alan
Thread: PM Research 6CI
22/09/2011 22:02:04
Thanks for the link! It's really entertaining!
That flywheel looks very big on his lathe! Just goes to show what can be done with limited tooling.
Looking forward to getting mine underway, although first I must finish motorising my sons Drummond!
Alan
21/09/2011 21:45:03
I have just had delivered a set of castings for the above steam engine.
Looks like it will make a very impressive and powerfull engine (1.5 bore, 2.5 stroke horizontal) Looking forward to getting going on it!
Anyone made or making one?
 
Alan
Thread: Boiler Feed Pump Stroke
06/09/2011 21:10:13
I must say that the engine is not a traction engine, but my Stuart No 4 that I recently finished!
The water consumption as suggested by Stuart is 19.8 lbs per hour when running at 1500 rpm on 75 lbs of steam - which comes out at the above and sounds like a hard working engine.
The plan was to fire the boiler with gas (so no blower) and use the engine to run a small generator for lights.
 
Alan
 
06/09/2011 20:26:58
Thanks Jason, seems like I should have a longer stroke than 0.125 then. Does the Minnie pump work at crankshaft revs? I am planning for the engine to run fairly slowly (cause I like it like that!) but wouldn't want the intermittent load of the pump stroke to affect the smooth runnng, so I am now thinking of gearing (with a longer pump stroke) to spread the load over more engine revolutions.
Does any of that make sense?
 
Alan
06/09/2011 19:39:06
I am about to start an eccentric for a feed pump. The pump is something I have already (I think it might be a Bassette Lowke model) which is .250 bore and according to my calculations will need to have a stroke of .125 per engine rev.
My question is, is the pump likely to still work with this small stroke? or would it be better to run it through a gear train and run the pump slower but with a longer stroke? and/or discharge any excess back to the water tank
The pump contains 2 stailess balls of .125 dia and .187 dia
 
Alan
Thread: Wheel Dressing
06/09/2011 19:24:59
I used to use the star type dresser, which seemed to work very well. I have also got one of those 'encrusted' dressers which also works well but doesn't seem to remove as much wheel, this is the one I now use most - as the wheels last longer!
I also always do this out doors (the grinders mounted with wing nuts) as the mess can be pretty bad.
 
Alan
Thread: Pinning
25/08/2011 23:07:43
Peter, I think Ramon has hit the nail on the head so to speak!
I recently finished a stationary engine (photo to be uploaded shortly) and when it came to the reversing gear involving a 3/16 shaft with a 1/16 pin through it didn't quite go to plan as I found the pins allowed the parts to move
I increased the pin size - actually a nail, to .105 and drilled tight fitting holes for these - wacked them in with loctite and the bloody things still moved!
I then opened out the parts to take 1/4 silver steel with the pins made from my newly discovered nail stock, once again assembled with loctite and it all seems tickety boo!
This somehow was achieved without damaging the parts concerned
A simple process is pinning, but to be treated with the respect it deserves!
 
Alan
Thread: Chuck Dismantle
19/08/2011 20:47:41
Thankyou for all your advice! As I said if the scroll was tapped back into the body it would push the rear centre out but would then stop because of the pinions and yes the join line goes through the bolt holes (photo must be better than I thought!)
Today I had a surge of inspiration! I found an old suspension rubber bush which was a very tight fit in the chuck bore, I then found some thick close fitting washers and with a length of 10mm studding compressed the bush in the bore - really tight
I could then tap out the rear of the chuck, voila!
It was a really tight fit but very well machined with the pinions coming out from inside
Dont think it has seen much use but will have to make a key for it so once its cleaned and oiled I can check its accuracy
Thankyou all!
 
Alan
18/08/2011 21:23:55
Whoops! Thats what happens when you take photos in the half light!
The name is 'DE Whiton', (not Whitch) who appear to be well heard of in the chuck world!
Having another look it seems I might have to make a puller to extract the rear section.
 
Alan
18/08/2011 19:56:21

Thanks for your reply, when the schroll is tapped it moves the centre section (with a join line around the bolt holes) - oily line in second photo

However it will only move about 25 thou before it stops against the gears (they go tight)
and I cant see any method of retaining them! third photo

I believe I somehow need to pull the rear section out to gain access to the gears and their retaining method
 
Alan
18/08/2011 17:10:11
I have an old (probably very old!) 3 jaw 4 in chuck which I am trying to dismantle for cleaning.
After removing the backplate it can be seen that the rear centre section will come out but appears to be prevented by the scroll operating gears, and I cant see how they come out!
The manufacturer is - The DE Witch Machine Co of New London, Conneticut USA (needless to say I cannot find them) and is unusual in that the chuck key requires a female square to fit
Other chucks I have retain the gears by a pin or screw.
 
Alan
Thread: Flat Belts
16/08/2011 23:40:11
I need a flat belt to take a drive from an engine flywheel to a small dynamo, I have found vacuum cleaner belts but they tend to be a bit on the heavy side!
Stuarts do a belt which looks like the right sort of material but it is only 3/16 wide - I would like it to be about 1/2 inch.
Any suggestions?
 
Alan
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