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Member postings for marcusj

Here is a list of all the postings marcusj has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Getting slitting saw to run true
23/03/2011 14:00:29
Posted by mgj on 23/03/2011 13:08:40:

How much run out will cause you grief?

Gosh, what a very good question. Maximum runout would be: 'much less than I have now' . (OK, I will measure...)

23/03/2011 10:04:20
Posted by mgj on 22/03/2011 20:42:47:
So you'll have to make a judgement yourself. however, I think you would be unwise to expect these screws to take all the sidethrust - not without toughening and heat treating. I think you'd use them for adjustemnt, and then have clamping allen bolts to provide the locking power. Then you'd only need three adjusters (NOT 4 - 3 points of contact?) because they are never going to take a cutting load directly.
 
Something like this (frets.com)?
22/03/2011 15:49:21
Posted by mgj on 22/03/2011 15:33:58:
I've had self same problem - I don't think I have bought a slitting saw that ran true.
 
The only answer I have is to put them on the Quorn and sharpen them properly - then they do run true and cut a lot quicker.
 
I have heard people say they are supposed to run out, but I don't see the logic in that.
 
The set true mechanisms - they use some screw in wedges that push a plate around centre. I think you could make an adjustable arbour and tap it into place (or 3 radially placed grubscrews) and then use screws to lock it. - rather like setting up an ordinary chuck on its backplate. You'd get about 95% of the result for 50% of the effort - useful perhaps when one doesn't use a slitting saw all that often.
 
Unfortunately I don't have a Quorn nor anything like it (my next Big Project is a Harold Hall grinding rest).  Nor do any friends / tame workshops that I know.
 
Like the idea of a chuck backplate-type-thing. Bearing in mind I only need a little bit of adjustment for even the worst offending 'new' slitting saw, perhaps a pair of plates bolted together with slightly larger than normal clearance on the bolt-through plate holes and some beefy washers? Perhaps quite a few screws (at least 4?) to ensure that the plates won't shift under torque from the drive once the screws are tightened?

Edited By marcusj on 22/03/2011 15:52:30

22/03/2011 15:06:46
Before posting for help here I did look around other forums on the Interweb and this does seem to be a general problem. For the record, the saw cutter was new but probably is of Eastern origin (inexpensive enough to be, anyway).
 
On the basis that this is a well-known problem, it surely must have a solution (other than buying 20 cutters from various sources in the hope that one has teeth that are actually concentric with the bore)? Surely professional machinists won't put up with slitting saws that only cut on 2 teeth per revolution?
 
I saw one suggestion involving a Toolmex 'SET-TRU' chuck. Seems way OTT to try and mount a chuck under my puny mill spindle, but... ...how about making my own set-tru-like-thingy so that I can run any old cheapo slitting saw straight and true on the mill? How do those set-tru mechanisms work? Hard to make?
22/03/2011 13:10:01
Posted by John Shepherd 1 on 22/03/2011 08:40:45:

From your description it would appear that you are mounting a metric slitting saw onto an imperial arbour.
 
Good guess, but I'm not, I bought a 'HSS SLITTING SAW 3" x 2.0MM" x 1" / saw arbour' from a UK dealer on an auction site.
 
Looked at the previous thread but didn't see the specifics of curing run-out??
22/03/2011 05:17:22
I run a Weiss WMD25V mill and I'm having awful bother using a slitting saw. I bought an MT3 arbour that seems to run true - I DTI'ed the 1" arbour once mounted in the MT3 spindle and all seems OK. Then I put a brand new ~70mm x 2mm thick slitting saw on the arbour (nice tight fit) and it cuts on about 2 teeth / rev which makes for v-e-e-ry slow work to avoid stalling the machine.
 
Advice on getting myself up and running to machine nice ~2mm slits at something faster than glacial speed would be welcome!
 
 
 

Thread: Recommend oil can for oiler ports (on lathe)
22/04/2010 13:32:05

Any recommendations on where to source an oiler can that effectively feeds those little oiler ports with the spring-loaded ball bearing cover?  For example those seen here on a Warco 250 (from cign.org site)?
 
 
Thread: 2-lugged vice in X-slotted drill press table?
20/04/2010 14:24:03
Posted by Steve Garnett on 20/04/2010 09:16:41:

 If you have access to a mill, then an even better option would be to remove the webs completely and mill a slot down each side of the vice, and use clamps into the slots. The one I did this (not a Chronos Neal, admittedly) to has been way easier to position on a drill press since then.

Nice idea.  An Amadeal AMA25LV mill is 'in the post' from UK to Spain but the vice has tapered webs so there wouldn't be a whole load of material from which to machine slots into the vice. But re-reading your suggestion, I think I now understand - completely remove the webs and then add a 'lip' / horizontal slot into / onto which a non-captive (i.e. completely separate) clamp holds onto.
 

Edited By marcusj on 20/04/2010 14:28:33

20/04/2010 08:33:58
Thanks for all the tips.  I tried turning the table on its axis already.  Sure, this then provides a pair of lateral (X) and a pair of (in-line, in Y) slots.  So that's some progress. 
 
I could then mount the vice 'sideways' so that the jaws are in line in Y and rotate the whole table around the pillar to get the drill axis above the right spot in the work.  Not ideal but at least not impossible. It's not ideal because the drill axis would describe an arc over the work clamped in the vice as I'm trying to line it up by rotating the table around the pillar, which is awkward.  Also not ideal because on my 'cheap' drill press there's a certain amount of play in the table's collar around the pillar and tightening it up to start drilling causes a certain amount of movement of the table relative to the drill axis.
 
I could also add packing work in the vice to  get the desired drilling centre under the drill axis, but that is probably the most inconvenient option of all.
 
Using milling-style clamps to clamp onto the web of the vice would allow a certain amount of wiggle room for aligning the work under the drill axis, and perhaps if I make some dedicated clamps this would be the best option.
 

19/04/2010 16:10:22
Sorry to ask a stupid question, but...
 
...I have a nice Chronos Neal vice that I'd like to use in my drill press.  However, the table on my drill press has an X-pattern of slots. The vice just has two lugs with cutouts for 2 fixed bolt-down locations.
 
I'm either missing something, or I'm going to have to make sub table that has parallel slots for setting the vice Y position in relation to the drill axis?  Or I could use clamps onto the web of the vice from the X-pattern slots but that seems a bit naff... (a fiddle)?
 

Edited By marcusj on 19/04/2010 16:12:55

Thread: Weiss lathes - any experiences?
10/04/2010 05:19:13
Good tip about the Warco equivalent.  I found a review here: http://cign.org/lathe.html.
09/04/2010 15:00:16
Seriously considering a Weiss 'benchtop' (i.e. step up from mini) lathe.  Any experiences?  Specifically, looking at the 250V .  It's an MT4-spindled, 750W single phase motored, variable speed job.  The more I use my Sieg C3, the more jobs I find that won't fit, or I wish I could rough the metal faster...
 
 
Thread: Rear Toolpost Parting Off on C3 Mini Lathe?
01/04/2010 11:09:55
OK, have tried turning my part-off tool upside down and mounting it (rather poorly because I run out of vertical adjustment) in the A2Z QCTP.  Hurrah - I can now part off aluminium alloy (55mm OD).  Seems to work with less complaint if I add some drops of cutting fluid (Tap Magic) every now and then.  Steel would probably still be 'one step too far' with the current set-up (still running ball bearings on the headstock, not taper rollers).  At the very least I would want a much more solid tool holder and probably need to make, fit and use a carriage lock.
 

Edited By marcusj on 01/04/2010 11:11:05

Thread: Upgrade C3 to new 500W motor?
31/03/2010 13:33:16
Posted by The Artful Bodger on 30/03/2010 22:55:14:

The Arc Euro Trade website has (or had) a video of my Clakre CL300 (essentially the same lathe) where I'm plunging a 3/16" wide parting tool to cut a groove in 2" EN1A. No chatter and the swarf 'came off with the sound of frying bacon', to coin a phrase.
 
Standard motor, but with the roller bearing headstock mod -  plus carefully adjusted gibs and slides.
 

 
Therein lies the trick, methinks.  I think I might order some taper roller bearings from Arc.  If I still lived near Leicester I might get Arc to fit them myself, but now instead of 50 miles they are more like 1000 away...

If I remember correctly Dave Fenner's MiniLathe book explains how to fit the taper roller bearings to the C3 without running into the Catch 22 of needing a lathe to make / modify bushings when your one and only lathe is in bits.
 
Thread: Menu disappeared from Digital Editions?
30/03/2010 12:18:02
OK, it's come back for me again (I didn't do anything at my end - didn't even restart the web browser since I tried last time).
30/03/2010 05:04:31
Yesterday there was a menu button on the Digital Editions of MEW.  This enabled printouts, etc.  Today this seems to have disappeared.  (For example on issue 115).
Thread: Rear Toolpost Parting Off on C3 Mini Lathe?
24/03/2010 19:40:43
Thanks for the quick replies.  Looks like I'll be making some special toolholder, probably to completely replace my A2Z CNC quickchange as a special, solid, rigid, parting-off toolholder / post combo.
Thread: Upgrade C3 to new 500W motor?
24/03/2010 19:37:41
Thanks for the quick replies.  I think that I shall make do with the C3 as-is for now. If I do anything I shall probably go down the route of layshaft + pulley to get more torque (especially for larger diameters and materials like steel).  If I can be bothered...
 
In slow time I shall look longingly at the Amadeal / Weiss CJ23B-750.
 
I have a milling machine (Amadeal / Weiss AMA-16V) to fill my medium term capital budget .
 
 
24/03/2010 07:26:05
Anybody considering upgrading their Sieg C3 lathe from the rather puny old 350W motor to the 500W one that is fitted to the 'Super' C3 as sold by Arc Euro Trade?  Presumably it would need both motor and controller.  Anybody any idea how much this would cost?

Why? I'd like to be able to look forward to jobs cutting steel and parting off (any material!) rather than avoiding them like the plague!  I get larger steel pieces made for me by a tame local machine shop, at least to rough size and I always have to resort to the bandsaw for 'parting off'.
Thread: Rear Toolpost Parting Off on C3 Mini Lathe?
24/03/2010 01:41:39
   Has anybody any suggestions for rear toolpost parting off on a C3 Mini Lathe?
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