Member postings for Bowber

If it's anything like my 280V then there is enough room for cooling air to pass, the fan runs on a separate motor so it does add an extra amount over just a fan.

Steve

I don't bother with the 0.6 wire as I always end up having feed problems, I always use 0.8

Steve

My 280V is the same, I think the bed is slightly harder than the cross slide but not as hard as an industrial machines bed.

Steve

That's were CNC comes in for the home shop, drink tea while creating the program on your computer and then have another cuppa while watching the CNC bugger up your castings.

Order replacement castings then repeat. (well that's what I did anyway!)

Steve

In my experience they don't break as easily and give a better finished thread because they are usually a higher quality product.
You also usually get all 3 taps in a set.

Steve

Did the upgrade from 7 to 10 a few days ago and so far most things work and are fine, however Microsoft have stopped supporting silverlight so now if you want to use nowtv or eurosport player (bike racing) then you'll need firefox as edge and chrome don't support it, so that's another £12 month saved!

Steve

I know the exact part your talking about.

I've hardened and tempered them just to take the edge of the hardness, quick scim over with wet n dry, take note of the polishing in the lathe thread, and then used them for years.

My bikes have been used off road so the bush is getting a lot more hammer than it would on the road.

Steve

I think this is what your after.

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCGCodeG68G69CoordinateRotation.htm

G68 and G69

Steve

When I worked at K shoes making punch dies we used number drills almost exclusively, the tiny difference between sizes helped us get a good fit on pressed in punch tubes.

No idea of origin or if they matched anything else though.

Steve

Just use it to start with, once your up and running and starting to make accurate parts then you can look into leveling it properly but for now just make smoke and swarf.

Steve

Yup, that's because we're engineers, or budding engineers anyway
My spelling is terrible and I keep having to use spell check all the time, as for my grammar, forget it.

Re these scams, they are hoping to catch you in that distracted moment were your not paying attention.
I've been caught out with a false eBay email. I just clicked the link and filled in my id and password before it finally sank in what I'd done, I then went to the proper site and changed my password and also emailed Ebay to tell them what I'd just done. They emailed back to say they'd keep an eye on the account but the password change should be enough

Steve

My 2 pence worth.

2D I use draftsight, near enough like autocad that you'll manage to pick up most cad packages almost straight away.

3D is more complicated but Autocads 360 Fusion is good, free and current.

Freecad gets to be hard work unless it's changed in the last 12 months and I'm not sure about the ability to change elements of the design easily.

Also a bit of advise re using the software, 2D you can get away with being self taught but it's easier if you get a good book that'll teach you some basic principles like using layers.

Teaching yourself 3D? Yes it can be done but usually by current 2D cad users, starting from scratch it can be a frustrating experience, the problem is getting the work flow right so that you can correct mistakes or make alterations to designs, making sure you have parts constrained correctly so that you can alter a hole position without the rest of the part turning inside out etc
With 3D it is really worth taking your time to learn the process correctly as it will save you a huge amount of time later on when you've spent days modeling that 18 cylinder radial engine down to the last nut and bolt and then find you can't get the 300 8BA bolts in the size you were told you could!

I'm not trying to put you off, far from it but starting off correctly will help immensely

Steve

Varispeed, our hydraulic copy mills had this head and it was quite useful and easy to change speed.

Steve

Of course if the hole is smaller than the drill you could always use it as......... a drill

Steve

I would imagine a hole down the centre, needs to be below the size were the strength reduces rapidly.
Then bond a hard rod in with a small gap using a rubber type solution.

The hardened rod will resist bending and the rubber solution will allow a small amount of flex for the boring bar and should help dampen the vibration.

Steve

I did the same on my 6" table from Chronos, came out very well and has the added benefit of having adjustable backlash (I think its really just to disengage the drive) I also only go one way usually unless it's a rotary 3D job.
I don't usually bother with the table locks either and have had no positioning trouble.

Steve

An ex work colleague of mine spent many years doing up a Le Mans, I think he finished it a year or two ago. I'm not sure what was special about it maybe an ex works one? Or are they all ex works?

Steve

Hi Neil

No I was just posting text typed in the post a reply box just as I am now.

I did manage 1 reply so I'm not sure how that worked because when I then tried to post my response with a few lines of text it just told me I needed to use the paste from word or notepad, I then tried the post from notepad and it then told me I's used more than X amount of characters and to shorten the message text!

X = a number I can't remember but it was thousands.

I then managed to edit my 1 response so that'll do. Funny as I don't seem to have a problem with any of the other threads.

Steve

I've just used a UC100 to connect a newer PC to my mill, I was using a 14 year old PC with windows 2000 via the LPT port, now using Win 7 64 bit via the USB port.

All seems good so far and it was a very easy swap over.

Steve

Edited By Bowber on 20/07/2015 19:19:46

Yes this forum seems to be fine and I managed to start a new thread so maybe it's just in the home made cnc forum?

I'll try posting again and see what happens.

Steve