Member postings for Richard Evans 2

Just a quick update... the grease arrived yesterday having been held up in the postal strike. I assembled the multi-function ring with the grease and I now have a fully functioning camera! I straightened the aluminium alloy bezel using a tapered mandrel, with a final skim of the inner surface in the lathe.It's not perfect- the alloy is very hard- but it works. So thanks again for the help from members of this invaluable group of people.

Thank you Robert and Michael, that looks like exactly the sort of thing I'm after. There's someone on Ebay selling 1g tubs of something called Nyogel 767A for a fiver (and other variants), which seems the easiest way to go. We were quoted about £250 for complete new lens assembly so I'm feeling quite pleased with myself.

Richard

I'm attempting a repair on a compact digital camera. At the base of the lens there's a rotating bezel which is a push fit over a plastic ring, which also rotates when the bezel is turned.The whole thing is about 50mm diam, by about 5mm deep. When I took it apart, the only link between the two seemed to be some sort of high viscosity grease- not an adhesive.

If I want some similar grease, can anyone give me an idea what to look for? Or what I might use as an alternative?

In a similar situation in musical instruments, I have used violin rosin dissolved in isopropyl alcohol to make a very sticky syrup, and a touch of that might possibly do the trick.

Thank you for comments suggestions- not much to do with model making- sorry!

Richard

I'm just using Mach with the standard parallel port driver. The Triac has the original 1980s electronics with the addition of a board to connect to the parallel port. I would love to get rid of all this and replace it with a modern driver system but it's daunting. The control box is about 1m square by 40cm deep, full of aging boards with discrete components of course. Even the machine connecting cable is about an inch and a half diameter, with a huge number of wires inside. I did a basic modernisation on an Orac lathe, also on Mach, but theTriac is in a different league.

Many thanks for advice/suggestions, particularly to Joh Haine for his offer re. sourcing a switch- much appreciated.

No decisions yet.

The current computer running the mill does not produce a very smooth response using XP/Mach/parallel port,although it is certainly usable. Am I likely to see improved preformance if I switch to using newer PC with Win10/UC100/Mach (or UCCNC)?

I'm wondering about using the UC100 motion controller with a printer/parallel cable switch so that I don't have to physically plug/unplug the two machines.

At the moment I have a Triac mill running Mach3/parallel port and a Stepcraft router running with UCCNC via UC100, on separate PCs. I'd like to use a single Win10 PC for both.

Is the switch likely to affect performance? Anybody done this?

Thanks!

Richard

Done! Once I realised how easy it would be to make a replacement if required, I got it with the Mole grips. It was just badly wedged.

Thanks to all. The hardest part was acually posting the photo!

Cheers

Richard

Image attached. I don't think it's a Woodruff (the curved ones?). The mill is an Amadeal XJ9512, it is the 'usual' mini mill available under several different brands.

Cheers

Richard

Hi All,

I'm replacing the gears on my mini mill. There is a key on the mainshaft which is totally jammed. Of course there's almost nothing to grip. Pliers just slide off and risk damaging the key. What can I do to get it out??

Thanks!

Richard

Thanks Emgee, but that didn't do it.

I sorted it by going to Config-Ports and Pins- Turn Options, and unticking the 'Reversed Arcs in Front Posts' option. This apparently is related to the front toolpost location as distinct from rear.

Now I just need to sort out a few options and settings in Fusion.......

Richard

Thanks Jason and Emgee- that issue seems to be sorted.Now something else (of course). I have a simple test piece- just a conical shape. The simulation looks fine in Fusion, but in Mach, the shape is wrong and there are loads of large loops in the toolpath. Any idea? Obviously, I'm using the Mach 3 Turning post in Fusion.

As an aside, it's the first time I've looked at Mach for a while, it looks pretty dated compared to modern software. I use it regularly on the Triac mill, but these are routines I wrote years ago using Sheetcam, I haven't tried to do anything new in Mach fora very long time!

Thanks again

Richard

Hi All,

I have a bit (not loads) of CNC experience and I'm investigating CAM for turning in F360. All the videos I've seen show the tool position as being behind the workpiece, and when I add a tool in my test project, that's where it is. I would like the tool to be in front of the work, where it is on my lathe (Denford Orac) so that I can clearly see what the toolpath looks like in simulation etc..I can't find a way of doing this.

I can't get my head around the tool at the rear (I know rear-mounted tools are used!)- surely Fusion isn't expecting the lathe to run in reverse?

What am I missing? I can change so much in Fusion- why not this?

Thanks for any advice,

Richard

Yes, I did the paper thing and leveled the bed. Prints are turning out very well. But if I don't apply the offset, it starts to print at Z0 which is actually 3mm above the bed.So why is the reading z-3 when in the Home position? That's a consistent, exact figure.

(This doesn't really matter much because Apply Offset sorts out the problem. But I'd like to know!)

R

The printer turned up a few days ago, and I must say I'm very impressed. It's actually quite easy to use although the very poor instructions supplied were anything but clear to a first time user. Good build quality.

One question: Auto Home moves the head to a position indicated as X0Y0Z-3. The nozzle is in the correct position just above the glass surface. I then need to press the offset option to get Z0 before I start a print. What's going on here?

Richard

Hi Ian,

Yes, I read your comments and watched a few videos and so on, and it was on Amazon at a reasonable price. Looking forward to getting to grips with it- I have a specific project needing some printed parts.

Cheers

Richard

Thank you EB. A decision has been made: I have ordered a Sovol.

Richard

I have read the earlier thread on printer choice, watched videos etc. Seems a choice between Ender 3 Pro and Sovol SVO1. Does anyone have any advice to offer, apart from what was said in the older thread?

The Ender 3 has a much wider user base, and very good reviews, but the Sovol has a higher spec. The Sovol seems not widely available.The problem is that I am totally new to this, although I use mach 3 on a Triac and UCCNC on a Stepcraft router.

Anyone used Reprap World as a supplier? Technology Outlet UK?

Thanks!

Richard

Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions- very helpful. Particular thanks to Martin for the offer of practical help. I have downloaded Inkscape to look at, and I've discovered that Vectric have a detailed video on working with imported vectors. I'm going to try to learn how to do this properly, as distinct from buggering about until it comes right!

Thanks for the replies. Work ongoing but head spinning, so taking a break!

The author of the files suggests Inkscape on Facebook. So I will give it a try. Perhaps I have answered my own question, hope so!

Richard