Member postings for Colin Heseltine

Just run the motor for around 15 minutes. It is now getting to the point of being too hot to touch. Is has not started to slow as yet. Have switched off and checked headstock and countershaft and these are both running freely. Have found a pair of flip-top oil receptacles on the motor and have topped these up. Loathe to run it much more due to the amount of heat it is generating. I have an electrician colleague hopefully paying a visit tomorrow and he will run some insulation checks etc. on the motor for me. It feels to me as though the section of the motor casing nearest to the lathe is getting hotter before the opposite side.

Colin

Martin,

The two motors I have came with the lathe, but the person I brought it off had not used, he had bought it from a watchmaker colleague intending to swap it out for his non-gearbox Super 7 but had not got round to it. The lathe and motors have possibly not been run or at least five years if not longer.

The first motor is a Brook Crompton Parkinson motor no VMB5341D136BG, 370W, 1425RPM, Star 380/440 (1.2A), Delta 220/250 (2.1A) 3 Phase

The second motor I have is a Brook Motors CUB, .33Hp, 1420RPM, 230V

This second motor was bench tried a few times, the majority of which it turned over only at a few rpm, although once it did run at full speed, I decided not to use this as it was such low power and try the 3-phase motor only

I initially had run the motor on the bench, but only for a couple of minutes to check that it ran okay, was quiet (no whine from the bearings and not tight) and reversed when two of the phases were swapped over. I then fitted it to the lathe. I initially I found that I had the drive belt to tight as the motor struggled. After a few seconds of this switched off and then re-tensioned the drive belt a lot looser. The lathe now ran okay and I check the functionality of the clutch, gearbox, forward and reverse drive to the leadscrew, half nut function and power cross-feed function. All this worked satisfactorily. I then noticed that the lathe motor was getting significantly slower. I found that the motor casing was extremely hot. There was no arcing that I could see or hear.

I do have insulation tester and multimeter but time is a problem at present due to work.

This may have to wait a few weeks.

Colin

What would be the recommend HP of a suitable 3-phase motor, 1/2 or 3/4 or whatever the equivalent in Watts is.

Is there any advantage in the Newton Tesla offerings compared to the Transwave offerings.

Colin

I had a posting elsewhere re powered cross-slide issue which gradually changed to a motor problem with a Super 7. I had a single phase motor which had possibly been used on the lathe but when fitted and powered up ran very very slowly when a load was put on it. The general concensus was to change to 3-phase and use a VFD.

Now I happen to have 3-phase supply but obviously will have more flexibility with the VFD. I fitted the 3-phase motor to test it and wired it directly (via Red 3-phase plug-in connector) to the isolator on my distribution board. Initially the motor ran sluggishly but once I had the tension correct on the belt it appeared to run okay. I then tested the clutch, gearbox and powered cross-slide etc. to check all was okay with these functions. They were perfectly okay. I now began to notice the lathe was running slower and slower and the motor was getting significantly hotter. Is this an issue because of not using a proper 3-phase starter switch, i.e just having direct cable. The motor is currently star wound but can be changed to delta.

I had hoped to use this resiliently mounted motor with the VFD, but if motor is no good then will need a new motor to go with the VFD components. I notice that the kits sold by Transwave use standard foot mount motors, not resilient mount. Is this a problem and is more noise and/or vibration apparent.

Thanks,

Colin

John,

I must admit I'm coming to the conclusion that the inverter would be best. I'll try and do some investigation before the Midland show. I had all ready modified the cabinet to take the Myford NVR switch prior to painting, but have checked ant the pendant control (for example with the IMO XKL inverter) will fit in the same space. There is plenty of space in the cabinet for the main inverter unit.

I have just checked the 3 -phase motor and it runs nice and quite in either direction. It is a Brook Crompton Parkinson motor of 370watts, 1425 r.p.m.

Colin

Robbo,

I have a feeling now that it had not been used with the lathe. I have had a single phase motor given me (which was probably the one fitted to the lathe) but the previous user has somewhat butchered the pulley and keyway with a combination of a non standard pulley with allen screw onto the top of the keyway and a couple of screws in from the side to try and make the pulley run square. It wobbled to high heaven when motor run on the floor to test. I managed to fit the correct pulley but cannot get it to lock in the correct place on shaft. But having then fitted the motor and powered it on all it would do was run very slowly. Switched on and off a couple of times, once in ran at proper speed but never again. So unless can work out why it will not run at speed, this one is most likely scrap.

I do have three phase but having just spent out of the proper single phase NVR switch, I don't really want to throw this away and fit 3 phase starter switch etc. Only other possible choice would be use the 3 phase motor and fit a VFD. Possibly same cost as new single phase motor. which is the other option.

Colin

Guys,

Would like some guidance on wiring up the motor to Myford NVR switch.

Motor Spec plate:

Does this imply it can be wired either 440 3 phase or 240 single phase. or is this a 3 phase only motor I do have three phase but intend running this on single phase using a Myford 'Tripus' Push Button starter with NVR and overload release and reversing. ( I am aware of the issues of reversing a screwed on chuck).

Wiring Info plate on cover plate:

Current wiring to motor:

The motor currently has a 4 core cable connected:

RED to A, BLUE to B, BLACK to C, YELLOW?GREEN to Earth ,nothing to N,

So I am working on fact it is wired Delta.

:

NVR Switch Wiring Diagram

This wiring diagram implies five wires (including the earth).

Cables from NVR switch:

As I intend putting a junction box between the motor cable and the NVR cable could some kind person tell me which colour cables, OR do I need a new single phase motor.

Thanks,

Colin

Steve, Norman,

Found the GHT article. It made sense, but could not make it work. It felt as though the leadscrew was engaging but then locked up. In the end did it the Myford way. Removed the handle and leadscrew from the cross-slide, removed the bearing and gear from the saddle and fitted the screw and then the gear to the leadscrew, Very hard to het started but once into the bore and the key engaged it all moved okay, so replaced the whole assembly back on carriage. All now okay.

Just have the electrics to suss out now.

Will post a few pictures tomorrow and ask for guidance. Being red/green colour blind does not help matters.

Norman,

Would very much appreciate the info on using the taper turning attachment. I have one piece missing which is the adaptor which sites on top of the taper slide and bolts into the bracket on the cross-slide. I guess I'll have to make this bit.

I have fitted the taper turning bracket about an inch lower that the original mounting holes ( a second set had been drilled by the previous owner). This will give me space to fit magnetic scales for the DRO. Unfortunately the glass scale on my standard ML7 is too bulky.

Thanks for the help.

Colin

Hi Guys,

Just trying to get a new toy working. Have managed to get hold of a Myford Super 7 with gearbox and powered crossfeed to replace my standard Myford 7. It had been partially dismantled to reduce weight for movement. Have repainted cabinet and just managed to get lathe onto cabinet and cleaned it all up. Now trying to fit the cross-slide. It goes on partially then stops. I'm certain this is because the key in the little drive gear is not lining up with the keyway in the cross-slide feed screw.

What is the trick/technique to get this fitted and how do I not have to go through this issue if I use the Myford Taper Turning attachment that came with the lathe.

Thanks in anticipation,

Colin

Vic,

That's interesting, I think I will try and chase the Snap-On man again. He did give me part numbers of the handles, then went on holiday and never got back in touch with me. Knowing someone else has had the same problem has given me incentive to chase hi,

Colin

I also have experienced this problem but with a set of Snap-On guaranteed for life screwdrivers. I bought set of Phillips and a set of plain blades screwdrivers around early 1970's. About three or four years ago I noticed that some of the screwdrivers had started to bubble and shrink and a clearish liquid was being exuded by the handle. Cleaned it all off checked nothing had been dropped in toolbox (Snap-On with lined drawers), which it hadn't. Gradually both of the two sets have succumbed to this problem.. Have tried to get the Snap-On rep to have a look but failing so far. They are only 45 years or so old, they should have outlasted me.

Colin

Followed Neil's advice regarding decent quality eyepieces for astronomical telescope. Bought Celestron Plossl 32mm eyepiece and Celestron x2 Barlow Converter. What a difference compared to the standard ones. Just need a dry night and the moon being out to coincide now.

Colin

for the Optimus. Brilliant little petrol stove. Still using mine when go away in the Caterham 7

Colin

I have a very small petrol primus stove. This does not have a pump. Just put hand round tank to warm it up, the little trough fills with petrol, throw a match at it, couple of minutes later boiling water for cuppa. Elf and safety would have complained but in wet weather have even lit it in the drivers footwell of the car. The flame is not very big at all. The other option is to use a fire starter jelly that comes in a small tube.. A small squirt into the trough, light it and a few moments later away you go. I also have a selection of old paraffin blow torches. These all have a trough which fill with meths. The old Tilley lamps are similar but in some cases they have a small clamp with a felt pad which is soaked in meths or paraffin and then lit to warm up the lamp assembly prior to pumping up the pressure. Always need to make sure the jet is pricked to ensure clean flow of fuel.

Colin

Just found a Bluetooth GPS Tracking Tag. in local Tesco filling station. £5 each marketed by a company called Falcon. At £5 I though it worth a punt. Only problem so far is trying to read the instruction sheet. Its written in letters 1mm high, no chance with my eyes. Need the stereo microscope I picked up from local hospice charity shop yesterday.

Colin

Started of at local car boot. Found a nice Cullman Monopod (camera tripod) £15, followed by man with tin with lots of taps dies reamers tool bits etc. After some negotiation bought the whole tin full of him. Then man selling loose brand new Sherwood stub drills, picked up 8, 9,11,12, 13mm (unfortunately no 10mm) for £2.

Day then got better, wife had spotted a astronomical telescope on tripod in local charity shop, we went for a gander. it was a Tasco 302012, 115mm objective 900mm focal length. Load of eyepieces, 4, 9, 10, 15, 20 mm, 3 x Barlow Lens, Moon Filter, collimation lens, and also the electric gearbox and controller to drive the hour declination gear. It was all immaculate - £69. It came home with me. 50 plus years since last had a astronomical telescope. Just need a good clear night now.

Ady1's comments about 2.0 Pinto engine remind me of my Mark 1 RS2000. I had the head breathed on by Aldon Automotive with Group 4 big valves, head all gas flowed. I then built it up with Burton BLF40/41 camshaft, roller cam followers, Vernier cam pulleys, 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust, twin 45 Dellorto carburettors, tuftrided and balanced crank, balanced the pistons and rods and used NGK plugs. I ended up with around 185bhp at the flywheel and a very quick car. That was quite a good power output in 1976. Just wish I still had the car.

Colin

Another source of used Cowells Parts (as well as other stuff) is company called Triona Ltd. who have a website www.myford-lathes.com

If you speak to Howard on either 01225 812155 or 07753610420 he may be able to help you. I have had a few bits of him for my early Cowells lathe. Alternatively email: [email protected]

Colin

If I read it correctly he says that transportation and maintenance costs will be added to cheque, and this will be used by his transportation company when he collects. To my mind he expects you to pay for the transport in cash. So definitely a NO NO NO.

Colin

Ian,

Quick question for you. Looking at the advert it says that 1/2" die and punch set gives actual hole size of .885", 3/4" gives hole of 1.115" up to 2" giving hole of 2.416".

Is this correct. Seams a bit odd to me.

Colin