Member postings for Colin Heseltine

It took two of us, plus three large H/D flat blade screwdrivers, two of the old fashioned wedge type taper breakers and a couple of copper headed hammers and half hour of hammering and levering before it came free. It was absolutely solid in the spindle in the head.

The centrifugal switch was at the spindle end of the motor. AS soon as the end case came of the problem was easy to see. No fault with the centrifugal switch per se, just a distinct lack of an electrical connection to it. A very dry solder joint had parted company .I only had a 40 watt soldering iron and to be honest this was a bit low powered, but with a good clean and a good dose of old fashioned soldering flux (Fluxite) the connection was remade. The pictures below show the effort to remove the motor, the faulty joint and motor location on the gearhead. Hopefully if anyone else has this problem these pictures might help.

All reassembled and works.

Many thanks to all those who made suggestions and particularly Les Jones 1 for his help in diagnosing the issue correctly.

It took two of us, plus three large H/D flat blade screwdrivers, two of the old fashioned wedge type taper breakers and a couple of copper headed hammers and half hour of hammering and levering before it came free. It was absolutely solid in the spindle in the head.

So its out, now to dismantle. To see the problem look at the other thread re failed Chester Motor.

Colin

In between trying to get the Chester mill motor off I have been making up a backsplash guard for the Myford Super 7.

Needs a bit more work to route the DRO cables and provide safe power to the DRO but basically finished it today. Fitted the DRO scales about 12 months ago and this is the first time I have powered them on. The display came of the Myford 7 I recently sold.

I need to fit the DRO modification to put the magnetic scale under the cross-slide but need the mill to do this or get my mate to do it on his Hauser jig borer.

Colin

Having a good fight with this motor. Spent several hours today trying to move the motor. Initially trying to use wedges to raise the motor. Moved it about 20thou but no more. The motor will turn in the head casting so it is not being held by the flange. Made a wooden clamp to go round the motor body so as to be able to use a hydraulic wedge in conjunction with the wedge and large screwdrivers.. No effect whatsoever. Engineer friend of mine came round to assist for half an hour. With two of us trying one each side we were able to get the flange about 1mm clear of the casing. The motor flange does not appear to be held in any way. All we can think is that the keyed motor shaft is held tight in the shaft in the gearhead. We will have another go on Sunday but I am extremely worried about breaking the aluminium motor flange. I am going to try and buy some wedges tomorrow so we can try and get it from 3 locations.

Colin

Les,

I understand how your suggesting I do this. The three screws which hole the read end cover are 5mm pozi which go into the motor body somewhere around 5mm. If I leave the rear end cover off and use M5 all-thread screwed in 10mm hopefully that will take the load.

Colin

John Rudd,

Thank you for the link to the manual. For some reason it only opens up as total gobbledygook as it appears to have lost all formatting. Is there any other way of sensing the link,

Colin

David,

How did you lift the motor out. I am struggling to grip it. I can lift it about 20thou using a screwdriver under the fixing lug and located into one of the fixing bolt holes for the gearbox top. I do not have any way of aligning it from roof as all joists boarded over and also not enough clearance.

Colin

You may have seen a post re my electrical problems with motor on Chester Super Lux Mill. The combined might of this site has determined that the problem is most likely the centrifugal switch. Unfortunately this is not located in the rear of the motor casing so I need to remove the motor to check the front casing.

I have removed the 4 cap head bolts holding motor to the head/gear casing. The motor and base plate will spin round but I do not have the strength to lift it up or there is something else holding it. The flange is completely flat against the head and cannot get a screwdriver in to ease it up and out.

Any ideas, I do not want to break a lug of the flange.

Colin

I have removed the 4 cap head bolts holding motor to the head/gear casing. The motor and base plate will spin round but I do not have the strength to lift it up. The flange is completely flat against the head and cannot get a screwdriver in to ease it up and out.

Any ideas, I do not want to break a lug of the flange.

I will put up another post re removal of motor to see if it triggers any responses.

Colin

Oh well. Had a horrible feeling that might be the case. Not sure how the motor shaft integrates into the gearbox. Whether it is splined/keyed onto a gear fixed in gearbox or whether it has a fixed gear on the motor spindle. Will take photos for future reference.

Colin

Rear End Casing removed. No centrifugal switch??

Where now:?

Colin

Just connected up with capacitor in circuit with V1 and W2 and both bulbs equal brightness.

Will now try and take the back of the motor to get to centrifugal switch. Hopefully the back end platewill remove without me having to unbolt the motor of the geared head as I have no idea how it is connected internally.

Colin

Les,

Both bulbs power up

Is the final concensus that it is the centrifugal switch that is faulty even though the capacitor gives odd readings.

Colin

Les,

To make sure I understand. The bulbs should be connected to the wires that I have disconnected from the connection block on the motor?

Colin

PS Many Thanks for your assistance with this.

Les,

Burntwood Staffordshire.

Step 2 was done with probes on V1 and W2 and then with capacitor connected the capacitor terminals were shorted.

This gave the display as shown in earlier picture. U1 and U2 were still disconnected is this correct?

I only had the capacitor disconnected when checked its capacitance with the meter.

Colin

SOD

I had got the capacitor disconnected at one end, so I had one probe pushed hard onto the fixed connection and the other end wedged to hold tight on the termination ring on the second capacitor lead. Not the easiest of positions to work in, stood on a chair leaning on top of gear head to steady oneself.

Colin

I will try Chester machine tools in the morning, their Burntwood site is only a few miles from my location. Will see if they have a capacitor in stock. Have you ever opened up this particular motor.

I assume that once I have levered the fan off (no fixing screws just a location flat on the shaft) and undone the three screws around the perimeter of the end case it should just lift off. Hopefully the connections to the end case will be on spade terminals.

Colin

Les.

By no reading I mean he display on meter does not change from that shown when nothing connected. As per picture below.

I commented about the voltages that I see at home as several people had commented earlier that it would be a sensible thing to upgrade the capacitor from 250v rating to a 450v rated device. Though I am struggling to find one other than in China with a suitable long lead time.

I shorted out the capacitor terminals whilst carrying out step 2 but the meter reading stayed as per photo.

Colin

Further to last comments. I have just checked voltage coming into my home. My computer UPS is reporting todays voltages Min=242v, Max 248v. Over last months seen just over 250v several times.

I am located about 20meters from substation, from which I have a 100amp 3 phase feed.

One of my testers it appears can check capacitors.  The readings appear to vary.  Get values from 0.18nf through to 8.16nf  The display then appears to microF then shows a value of 0.

I have no idea how a nf compares to a microF 

Colin

Edited By Colin Heseltine on 10/12/2018 15:24:55

Les,

Carried out step 1. and get reading of 3.1 or 3.2 ohms across terminals (2 different test meters)

Step 2 - NO reading on either of two meters. As I did not get a reading I did not short out the capacitor connections.

Checked the contactors - they are pulling in

Behave the same whether in forward or reverse.

Also tried rotating the motor (via fan blades) whilst attempting to start - this did not have any effect.

Colin

Edited By Colin Heseltine on 10/12/2018 14:38:18