Member postings for john fletcher 1

I have H/V rotary table and followed an article in MEW, making a stepper motor controller using an Arduino, not easy for me, got there with a lot of help from folks on 'here' thank you chaps. How good it is when cutting a gear, NO losing count, or thin tooth, so after the purchase, I suggest you consider making a controller. John

I've got RDM 350, had for 30 odd years and have carried out many mods to it, some following George Turners articles in ME 1989. I made a power cross feed, using gears from photo copier and a car window up down motor, not all wiper motors are reverse able.5 or 6 years ago I fitted a pre owned 3 phase motor and inverter, what a difference that made. I'm sure there are better bench top mills around, but I very happy with mine. I've found the best source of information about machinery is the US Grizzly site, all though 'tony lathes' has some, and he say Naerok is the best of the bunch. I have a manual, but the picture on the front calls it a REXON, and models which were available are RDM 400-500/500MF,,nothing about a 350 I think that was for the US market, but no test report. John

Happy Christmas to all

Usually these fans are Cap start and Run no centrifugal switch, the actual value be on on the can.

Robin, if you join "Vintage Radio" there are many members who will I think will be only to glad to offer advice on your TV problem. But it could be as David reports, just a capacitor. When I've had a look inside a modern TV, it would appear there is not much which can be fixed by anyone any more, more like a small computer.

I have a Weller soldering station and one by RS as shown by Bill peak4 above, On my RS one, its says some where made in US, same on the replacement tips. I've been using the RS type this morning, fixing Christmas tree lights Since RS stopped supplying them, I've got my spare tips via Ebay. Certainly Vintage Radio Forum will know but they advocate a much more costly soldering station. John

I've been asked by a stationary engine friend to make him a coil winder, I'm sure a reader will have all the details of the operating cam and other parts. I thought the cam could Arduino controlled and powered by a stepper motor, not that I know how to do it. John

Hello Robert, there was an article in MEW June/July 1991 on making a clutch for a ML7,a friend and I followed the article instructions. We both found that the leather clutch face got polished and caused some slip, a piece of crushed rosin as used by violinists trickled in the partially opened clutch, soon cured the minor problem. I think I may still have the article, should you be in need of it. John

You said the motor does run, so cap and centrifugal switch both are OK. Looking a diagram on the left, leave the incoming mains wires L & N where they are as shown. Move the wire/lead which is attached to U2 to the position of existing U1 and move the wire/lead which was originally in position U1 to U2. In other word exchange the run winding. Ted

Look in the phone book to find your local rewinders and take the motor to them, they will know what to do. To much irrelevant info on here for safety.

Blimy, looking at Ady1 thread, and saw the price of those 4" Vice benders £48 I have one, and I think it was a tenner or maybe a little more at Harrogate show, goes to show how things have gone up. A useful tool, nevertheless, I have a bender, made at Model Eng class (remember them) all those years ago. John

Regarding workshop lighting. Some time before Covid, my workshop 4 fluorescent lights were dark at the ends/ failing and action was required. I bought a 10 metre reel of self adhesive (sticky back) 12 volt LED and 4 length of 25mm angle plastic from B&Q. Then with some assistance from my wife I screwed the plastic strip to the workshop roof, then peeled off the backing paper from the LED strips and stuck them to the plastic angle. One thing to point out is that I had to solder two wires to the strip, so you need to be quick with the soldering iron, otherwise you would spoil the plastic strip and a diode or two. LED'S are polarised so a RED and BLACK thin supple wire is needed, which I'm sure most workshop already have. It's all powered via a discarded computer power supply. My friends remark how good the light level is all over the workshop, no dark areas, and it wasn't expensive either. John

Several of my friend bought a Huanyang 2.2KW inverters, from you know where for around £80, that was 4 or 5 years ago and to the best of my knowledge all are working fine. I know that doesn't sort your inverter problem but a lot of difference between £200 and £ 80 for what amount to almost the same thing Do we home workshop type need all the bells and whistles John

In view of the cost of setting up for materials and equipment for Silver soldering, may I suggest paying some one to tig weld it for you. John

I didn't get the EITB booklet which I was after, but instead got copies of the two excellent books from Arurotrade, one on lathe work by Neil the other on milling by Jason. I'm a helper at the local "Mens Shed" and I am trying, to get members to safely use a lathe and milling machine. These two books, full of very good quality explanatory pictures and are for us, a better alternative.

It is also good to hear from readers how the EITB such a good lurning base future work life (not forgetting the girls) and I'm sure Swarf Mostly, is correct re poaching of staff, it still goes along around where I live.John

Well done Steve, glass fibre is versatile material , I've done a lot in the past including making some moulds. 40 years ago, wife and I made our own solar hot water system. we made the boxes in which we installed the panels using GRP.

I have a Wanner 300-4 oil gun which leaks badly around the filler cap via the threads, otherwise it works well. I've looked on the net hoping to find out how to fix it. So far I've made a new washer, tried using an O ring and a carefully made large disc. It leaks with some force and make a mess. Any other suggestion will be much appreciated. john

I have a Wanner 300-4 oil gun which leaks badly around the filler cap via the threads, otherwise it works well. I've looked on the net hoping to find out how to fix it. So far I've made a new washer, tried using an O ring and a carefully made large disc. It leaks with some force and make a mess. Any other suggestion will be much appreciated. john

Amongst my collection of oil guns is Wanner 300-4, It forces oil through the nipples with some force, good. But I cannot stop the oil from leaking back from the filler cap end, the pressure is so high it forces oil back up the screw cap end threads. So far, I've made a new plastic washer, tried an O ring with a large diameter washer made to fit, all to no avail. I have had the gun in pieces, nothing wrong at the action end. What am I missing. John

I suggest you contact your nearest Model Engineering Club, as there are lots of Model Engineers doing a 3phase motor/ inverter conversion on their lathes and mills and you might be lucky with them. Also, you could see the motor running and check the mounts are suitable for your machine. John

I to have one of Steve's products, bought from him in person at Harrogate show all those years ago. Money well spent as far as I'm concerned, well made and easy to use. John