Member postings for oldvelo

Hi Bill

Lots of good advice offered in this posting on the technical issues to bee observed when silver soldering.

Like all welding and brazing it is a process that requires some manual dexterity to get the best results.

My advice is to address the way you manipulate and hold the torch.

Hold it gently as if using pencil or an artists brush and not tightly gripped like a hammer.

The arms held away from the body like a bird about to fly not crushed into the rib cage.

Keep the flame of the torch on the part to be solderdered and control temprature by moving the torch tip away while keeping the flame on the molten metal.

This will allow the metal to "Freeze" while it is protected from oxidiseing.

DO NOT wiggle the torch from side to side to control the temprature and expose the molten metal to the atmosphere.

Eric

Hi

On the effects of magnetism and welding cables I had the misfortune to destroy the main and ballance wheel springs in an expensive watch.

Using an "Air Arc" gouging torch at high amperage with the lead draped over my shoulder and several times coiled round my arm the springs were heated hot enough to to soften the springs and render the watch useless.

Eric

"As a matter of fact, Myford ML7 bearings are plain parallel white metal bearings and NOT tapered. All end thrust is handled by a separate thrust bearing."

Thanks KWIL I got it wrong

I stand corrected for my error on the headstock bearings on a ML7 headstock bearings.

It is good to see someone who takes the time to read all the posting before making comment.

Eric

Hi Len

The bearings in the headstock of a Myford ML8 are Angular Contact ball bearings.

The ML7 metal lathe are tapered White Metal Bushes Oil Lubricated .

The reason that "ON NO ACCOUNT IS GREASE TO BE USED" is that there appears to be no seals fitted to the spindle bearings.

The use of grease in the bearings has probably done very little harm to the bearings.

The only problem that MAY arise when greased is used on constant use on high speed when the bearing could run HOT.

If you are unsure a "Strip and Clean" will help with any doubts.

An excellent site for infomation is at

http://www.lathes.co.uk/MYFORDWOOD/

The tricky bit is to adjust the bearings with no play and no excessive preload.

Eric

Hi Bill

A bit more info on "Weirs Pumps"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Weir_boiler_feed_water_pump.jpg.

Eric

Hi Bill

The 'Wiers" pump is sturdy and reliable but a bit of a sod to get the valve timing right on the full size pump.

Being a scaled down model the the setting up will be even more critical.

Keep us posted on progress

Eric

Hi to all as I Still await the MEW 204 issue in the antipodes.

The writer of the letter is responsible for its content and NOT David Clark

Having read and analysed Ketans response to this without reading the original My own biased opinion is that >>>

There is HISTORY of Previous ((Disagreement-Argument)) on this subject and an attempt to re-fire the ((Disagreement-Argument)) again and not to take the ""Attack The Person"" and not make an attempt to solve the problem.

Was "Mischief" the sole intention or was it a means of starting a "Healthy" debate.

Eric

Hi Robbo

A nice little project to restore with a bit of TLC and Gear Motor fitted will be a great "Model Makers "

tool.

Sorry I have no information for it.

Aim for a cutting speed of 80 to 120 strokes per minute and cutting on the "Pull Stroke" Clock wise from the pulley side.

Have fun

Eric

Hi can I point you to this site on setting up to clean with "Electrolosys"

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I use this method for ceaning up steel and cast iron parts ready for painting or Blacking.

Eric

Hi can I pass on a tip. This a mod I have done on my lathe and milling machine gibs.

Lock the gibs up tight on all adjusting screws.

Remove one screw completely and with a drill to match the tapping size of the screw and tidy up the Indent in the gib strip using an "Egg Beater" or hand drill.

Replace and tighten up repeat until all screws have been treated.

Then dismantle and clean up.

Then remove the screw and form a "cup point" on the end of the screw or fit NEW "Cup Point " screw.

Insert a "bearing ball" the same size as the tapping size for the screw I.E. 5 mm for 6 mm Screw.

Then replace and adjust It to look like =H Excuse the Keyboard CAD drawing.

Not too keen on grease to lubricate "Cast Iron" . Moly or teflon additive to Way Oil is prefered .

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 25/05/2013 04:13:37

Hi Andrew Trolled up a bit of info on Qualters And Smith Power Hacksaws.

The Bulldog 150 can be viewed working here-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isuPXWE1wyM

Features
Totally Enclosed Drive
Two Cutting Speeds
Fully Adjustable Feed
Hydraulic Relief on return Stroke
Bow raises automatically and stops motor on completion of cut.
Heavy Duty Quick acting vice allows location to be made of 90-45degrees
Adjustable Bar Stand

Safety features
The machinery drive doors if opened when the motors are running ,the motors will stop by safety switches on each door
Emergency stop on the starter
Automatic motor stop after the saw bow has raised to its start position

Specification
Main motor :3ph 1hp
Coolant motor :3PH 0.8
Speed:100 and 150 strokes /min
Capacity : @ 90degrees 150mm :@ 45 degrees 90mm
Weight : 280kgs approx.
Sawblade:14" x 1 " Size : 46.75" (1.187mm) L x 20.5"(520mm) W x 36" ( 914mm) H approx.

Hi Hammerstad

Cutting threads will be a lot less stressful with the spnidle running at 57.5 rpm.

I had the same problem until I converted the drive to "Polly Vee Belts" with three speeds of

115, 87.25 and 57.5 gave muc more control.

The chatter from the gearbox can come from a single phase motor check the reply from

"Ken" he describes how it occurs in great detail

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f16/single-phase-motor-chatter-17383/

Someone on this forum may be able to help in cutting a gear for you now you have made the call

One Little thing with a BV25B-L lathe change gear is that the diameter in mm = the number of teeth

therefore no need to count teeth just measure the diameter.

Be aware that the ball bearings on the input shaft are liable to fail and kick up a racket

Check that the oil hole to feed the bearings has be drilled correctly as the hole was completly ommited from mine causing failure shortly after I Bought it.

Oil changed and new bearing on the intake shaft and the problem solved.

Eric

Hi

I am looking forward to Issue 199 with regard to belt drive conversion to an X2 Mill Drill

As always I am interested in how others do things .

However we have to wait for the MEW in New Zealand for around six weeks delay before it is on sale

here.

Eric

Hi Graham

Just a little aside on "Kerosene Engines"

""You are quite right as regards the running on Kerosene, the contemporary reports I have read of the tractor say it was not happy running on Kerosene unless the engine was working hard"".

My experience with "Kerosene" powered tractors was gained as lad from driving "Fordson" Tractors on all sorts of jobs from ploughing and cultivating to Haulage work at harvest time.

When on light work the Radiator Blind was covering almost all of the front of the radiator, or you had an engine that ran very poorly.

The later model "Fordson Major" had a temprature guage on the top of the radiator that took a lot of the guesswork out of setting the radiator blind.

Eric

"The engine is a very interesting piece of engineering in that air is drawn in around the exhaust manifold and then passes via a connecting pipe between cylinders 2 and 3 to the base of the carburettor, it then passes up through the carburettor and back to the intake valves via a connecting cast in passageway to the intake manifold which is also cast into the block. Along the way back through the block to the intake passages it passes the govenor butterfly which restricts the rpm to 900."

Hi Graham

Looking at the engine specs with the intake air being preheated I would think that this engine was designed to run on "Kerosene" or "Vaporising Oil".

Following your project with great intrest.

Eric

Hi more on bv25 lathe also marketed as Weiss ML260

http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/ML260/28291/

Specs are the same as bv25b-l with a few additions and modifications.

Eric

Hi

I found this topic In MEW Forum. If you Google "bv25b-l lathe" it brings up lots of dealers selling this lathe.

This was the lathe I bought for my home workshop and did some modifications-improvements to get a better performance.

The Topslide angle that several mention is totaly down to personal preference myown being as follows.

The angled topslide set at 29.5 degrees is what is used for thread cutting 60 degree threads

1) Set the tool to touch the workpiece and set Crossslide Dial to zero.

2) Move apron to allow the tool to advance on the Crossslide and advance the tool to the depth of thread required.

3) Zero the Crosslide Dial again.

4) Zero the Topslide Dial then retract the tool with the TopslideHandle until it will clear the Workpiece by moving the Apron.

5) Advance the tool with the Topslide and take the first cut

6) STOP The Chuck and retract the tool with the Crosslide and REVERSE the Apron with the Leadscrew Engaged.

7) Stop and Advance the Crosslide back to Zero.

8) Advance the tool on the Topslide.

9) Keep repeating 6) 7) & 8) until the Topslide dial reads Zero

If you got it right the Thread just needs tidying up.

Not being nimble enough with my advancing years I have fitted a 180 volt DC motor that extends the Variable Speed range from 40 to 2500 RPM

The original was 115 to 1620 in six steps

Eric