Member postings for Richard Clark 1

Hi Ega,

I have just Pm you and I see the Rocol stuff seems to be the best for that application I will have to look into that too.

No I meant to say the Iso 68 way oil could gum up collets, I am cleaning mine at the moment in Parafin and then soaking in Spindle oil (ISO30) to get the oil into every bit.

Best Regards

Richard..

Hi to everyone,

Yes Ega a scan would be great if thats possible, I will also keep the info on dismantling the collets thats handy info especially if they get swarfed up a bit in use.

Its a shame that makers are so useless, I am assuming the scredriver slot is for holding the nose cap on and I would think the bearings would be single balls in grease.

Yes a diagram exploded pic would be very helpfull if its not too much trouble for you.

Also lucky for me is the collet chuck is a backplate mounting type which is very handy as the backplate taper has seen better days, I think someone has tried to remachine the taper!! and made a crap job of doing it so mounting on a new backplate also has the advantage of tapping the original burnerd collet taper into perfect alignment and nipping up the screws.

By the way I have never used Rocol Ultraglide spray? but I know Rocol stuff is pricey could you not use a dab of Iso30 spindle oil on the blades?. definately not way oil as this can gum up over time.

Regards

Richard..

Hi, Michael

Yes I know its strange, they sell it but when it comes to asking about it they have no info on it?, dont know how they get on as a company?.

Hopefully someone would know what the screwdiver slot on the nose ring is for, I would think it has ball bearings in the nose cap that would benefit from a grease up as it feels a bit dry.

Hopefully someone has done this??

Regards

Richard..

Hi,

I have recently accuired a Burnerd Multisize Collet Chuck KC15 key operated type which had been sitting in a cupboard for all time! .

Is it possible to regrease the bearings? there is a flat screwdriver slot in the nose cone and im wondering if thats how it is removed for a regrease.

Has anyone tried this I have contacted Burnerd and they say they have no information on the chuck ?

Any info would be great.

Thanks in advance

Regards

Richard

Hi Phil,

Thanks for that I looked at the lathe serial number and it is the same year as yours, The only difference is mine is the gap bed model (gap still installed from new it sees) I think it can turn 18".

One thing I find strange is the crosslide does not seem to travel much outwards(operator side) but instead seems to go far more inward crossing over the spindle center by a long shot dont know why that would be ( I dont mean a fault but designed that way?), as I am more familiar with Myford lathes.

I looked at the lathe again today and I measured 16mm tooling which fits ok but looks a bit flimsy in the tool post so I think I will get a 20mm indexable holder and try that for a while.

I will remember that we like pics on here and I must take some talking about pics I dont know if your lathe has the original "Gamet Bearing" brass plate on the headstock, mine is missing and I have been looking around to see a pic of it but as yet none, mine has the holes for it and the outline of where it has been, I could probably get a copy made up if anyone has a close up pic of it.

Best Regards

Richard..

Hi Phil,

Yes I do have the MK1 roundhead lathe actually its the rarer 1500 2 speed model.

what I meant by mine is different to the manual is that the manual only shows the knock off type of cross feed ie mk2 mine is as you say the sliding lever

One other question is what size of tooling do you use I have the 4 way auto indexing turret and I have done a few measurements and it appears I could fit 20mm indexable insert tooling and then only have to pack up the height by about 40thou to be on center line , im not sure if I should go for 16mm tooling seems more of that about or try the 20mm tooling to maybe give more rigidity?

Best regards

Richard..

Hi to all,

For Phil yes I have got a pdf manual i only have the pdf from online its got a 46597 serial number at the top of the front page, I dont know if thats what you have Phil.

If you have something different I would love to see it as its not exactly the MK1 that I have as it shows a different power feed arrangement perhaps you will let me know.

For Mark, I didnt want to take the apron off only the saddle to clean and make new wipers, if I remove the cap bolts securing the saddle to the apron am I to understand that it wont just lift off as I was hoping because of these keepers etc?.

From Richard..

Hi,

Can anyone let me know how I remove the saddle of the colchester Student, I need to clean up under the saddle as the felt wipers have long gone and it would be nice to give a proper clean up before installing new wipers.

I have removed the crosslide so thats about where im at, I notice there are cap bolts on the saddle securing it to the apron if I remove them will the saddle just lift of or will there be any problems with the power cross feed etc

Any help will be greatly received .

Thanks in advance

Richard..

Hi,

Thanks for the replies guys, I found that a pc based dro is available from machine dro so I may look into that, I just thought since I had mach 3 I could use it but I think on reflection it would be too messy to use as just a dro and like you say its really only there to show what the output is doing, I didnt think of that.

Many Thanks for all your help

Regards

Richard..

Hi,

I have Mach 3 software on a disc and I have a mill that I would like to fit Glass scales onto it, can someone point me in the right direction.

I would like to just use the Mach 3 DRO using Glass scales but what would I need in order to do this, im really more thinking about the wiring up of it all.

Would I need a "breakout board" in order to connect the glass scales(which I have not purchased yet), as I cant find any info on how you connect the glass scales to the computer.

Any advice to start off would be great, im not wanting the cnc motor option but would like to use the Mach 3 dro instead of buying a dedicated DRO.

I think I read somewhere that you should buy Quadrature type glass encoders as thats what Mach 3 needs? maybe someone who has done this could let me know I would be grateful

Thanks in advance

Regards

Richard..

Hi to all,

I removed the spindle did what paul said, it was the quill stop screw that was holding it from coming out.

The spindle came out ok was not rusted or anything bad but I noticed that the outer spacer between the abec 7 bearings is loose moves side to side, the nut on the top of the spline is tight, I undid it and retightened it but it does not make the large outer spacer tighten up?.

I also noticed that the dirt shield at the nose is able to spin too, does this mean that the abec 7 bearings are worn, the machine is 1970 ish, the bearings are RHP 7207 prec EP7 so they look original to me and the nut spider lock has not been messed with probably meaning nobody has been in there except me to see if it was tight.

I did read somewhere but cant be certain that if the spacer between the lower bearings can move about then the preload has gone as the spacer should be tight without the nose cap.

Am I right to assume worn bearings I get 8 thou axial play 1.5 thou radial on the guage when it was in the quill.

Regards

Richard..

Hi to all,

Just an update, I made the pin spanner to undo the Bridgeport nose piece, it was on there very tight so plenty of WD40 and keep working the nose piece got it freed off it took about 2 hours of gentle working back and forth.

I can confirm that the Adcock and shipley Bridgeport on mine is a normal Right hand thread I gingerley went both ways in the begining so as to avoid any damage but it came off ok.

I tapped the drawbar with almost no effort and the spindle has started to come out of the quill the only thing is it has stopped, I think its like Paul said it has got caught on a quill stob knob screw or could it be that as I am only tapping the drawbar maybe that has caught on something, not sure what people use to tap the spindle out

The question I have Paul is if I remove the stop knob screw and stop will anything fall to bits in doing so, I was wondering if the metal quill guard (telescopic thing behind quill screw) will be ok?

Thanks to all replies

Regards

Richard..

WOW,

This forum really is the best I didnt expect the replies that quick thats great, I thought it may be possible to remove the spindle but its better to ask than bugger something up.

The only problem is 1 saying its a left hand thread and 1 right hand thread?.

like john says different machines ie import etc.

I have a Adcock and shipley Bridgeport with 2J head I think manufatured around 1974.

If you could just confirm if its LH or RH I would be grateful, as I will make a suitable pin spanner for it as I tried a rubber strap wrench and its too tight for that ( I have removed the little grub screw) and yes thanks John I did look to see if there was 2 fitted but luckily only one in there.

Its great to have so much help on hand .

Thankyou all

Richard..

Hi,

I think I have a problem with the spindle bearings in my Bridgeport, I have noticed that the spindle moves up about 6-8 thou axially, definately the spindle not the quill.

Can anyone let me know if its possible to inspect the spindle bearings and how this is done I read on the internet about a guy tapping out the spindle assembly from the quill but that was on a step pulley head and I have a varispeed head.

The varispeed head is super quiet so i am guessing that things have been replaced over the years but i would like to investigate the spindle problem.

Could it be a loose nut or faulty bearings they seem quite enough no grinding sounds?

Any info or tips would be appreaciated.

Regards

Richard

Hi,

Thanks for all the good info and the links, the oil is running much clearer it may have been some black grease in the head that mixed with the oil, I did the paper test and there is no metal bits or water so hopefully it will be ok.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Hi, Thanks for the post I did look at that and it appears that guy is using black Moly grease but I think that maybe too thick for a bridgeport? im not sure?.

I probably will have to find the lubriplate grease and hopefully it will gradually pump the moly grease out.

I can only think the oil that I am putting into the side cup is mixing with the black grease and turning it brown hopefully it will gradually run clear.

Hi to all,

Can anyone let me know what grease they use for the set screw "A" in the varispeed 2J head, I know Bridgeport say Lubriplate 105 but thats in America.

Also I took out the setscrew and it has been lubricated with black Moly grease, is this a good alternative in the UK or should I obtain the Lubriplate 105.

My other question is where does the grease go or end up if it keeps getting lubricated how does it find its way out? .

I notice that when the machine is running brown oil is coming from the spindle nose I think this could be the black moly grease mixing with the clear spindle oil?. I think lubriplate 105 is white grease

Any advice or info on which grease to use would be gratefully received.

Many Thanks

Richard..

Hi to all,

A big thanks for everyone that is replying to this as it will make everything a bit easier im sure.

If this forum made cutting oil it would probably be the best cutting oil in the world !!

Regards

Richard..

Hi Les and Clive,

Firstly to Les, No les nothing has appeared on my email so dont know where that has gone I expect someone in the world has it and are wondering what thats all about? perhaps you could try sending it again.

Clive, Thanks for the heads up on the feed pcbs and the motor cleaning, yes I expect it can get a bit mucky but I dont mind if it keeps everything working.

Yes Clive if you have any info I would be gratefull of that too, as you can never have too much info especially when something goes wrong. I will PM my email address as I did with les.

Thanks to both of you for taking the time and trouble in helping me find some diagrams its just great.

Best Regards to all

Richard..