Member postings for Richard Clark 1

Howard is right just checked my chart on the vertex and there are some errors so always worth checking before cutting!

Yes Jason, got bogged down with the maths! yes I could make the 133 plate on the dro and then transfer it to the vertex looks like thats the way to go for least error.

Thanks for all you great help have learnt more about it all.

Regards

Richard..

Wish I had taken the time to listen to the maths teacher now !

Have just downloaded your spreadsheet Howard thanks, mine is the HV8 but still has 90:1 ratio gearing.

You mention making the 46 hole plate I could make the 46 hole plate using the DRO would this be more accurate than using the existing plates to make the 46 hole plate?

From Richard..

Hi to everyone,

What a lot of information thanks to all.

The rotary table is a vertex HV8 8" rotary table with the index plates as listed in the first post.

My friend asked me is it possible to make a gear that has 133 teeth as he does all sorts of stuff with printing machines, I think the gear is a timing gear so would be nice as always to keep errors to a minimum.

In answer to Jasons question yes I do have the DRO not the one I was asking about as there was problems with the software, so I went and got the Acurite instead.

Would there be a plate number that could be made on the dro that could then be fitted to the vertex in order to improve errors? I could make a special plate if it turns out that the supplied plates are not giving the right result..

Thanks to all that have put brain cells into this

Regards

Richard..

Hi, to all

Well thanks for all the great input this is why I posted on here as always there seems more than one way to skin a cat!.

The printout idea I have saved for future print outs but as others have said my printer seems to also print oval on a good day on a bad day its stretched?.

I knew I was in way to deep on my own as maths was always a non starter with me especially when your all talking about things like prime numbers and rational interger whatevers I could not see the woods for the trees..

I like the idea of using the 99 hole plate, that at the moment would to me seem to be the most accurate

And thanks for the formula Bazyle (The maths is wormwheel x plate holes then divide by the target division in this case 133. If it is a round figure you have a winner of the number of holes to index). that is going to be printed out and stuck near my rotary table

Really great stuff on here as I was stuck with the maths

Richard

Hi sorry I dont know what you mean 90 holes on a 133 hole plate?

regards

Richard..

Hi is it possible to get 133 divisions from a 90:1 rotary table?

I have the index plates that can be fitted but not sure on how you would even go about working it out the maths?

Index plates are

If anyone has any ideas I would be grateful

Many Thanks

Richard..

Also forgot to mention to Nick _G I was talking to a rep we had at work and he said he had an Easson ES12 LCD dro and he said it was great but had to send it back as he purchased it to provide a feed rate display but apparently there was a cock up at the factory as all were shipped and never got programed in the software for feedrate display so he returned it but am guessing this has been solved now.

Hi,

Thanks for the replies, I looked at the SDS6 display online and the only reason I asked about reliability is that it says the SDS6 has an internal replaceable power supply in case of failure? which I suppose is good but how often do they keep going whereas the easson does not mention anything so guess nothing is replaceable and seems more people have easson than SDS6 from the replies so far

At the moment I am leaning towards the easson ES8, I was wondering about using the self adhesive magnetic tape scale as it says you can mount it directly to a machined surface that should be great on a crosslide.

Has anyone ever thought of a 3 axis dro for a lathe ie 3rd used on the tailstock just a thought might be good for accurate drilling!

Thanks for the info

Regards

Richard

Hi,

I am thinking of getting a dro and was wondering if anyone has experience of the Easson ES8A or the Sino type displays.

I have heard the Easson has easy push buttons but have not seen one to touch and dont know what the overall reliability would be like on a Easson ES8A so if anyone has any advice good or bad I would be glad to hear it.

Thanks in advance

Regards

Richard..

Do you have the Bridgeport brochure I have that if you want me to email you the link maybe you have it has a black cover and 48 pages

Thanks for that drawing I didnt have that one, great for looking inside.

I have some manuals collected from the internet too from a few years but as yet no mention of the setscrew at the back of the head, I think its where the factory inject grease once its all built up and then pop the grubscrew in but I wonder if the setscrew is for what I think then maybe greased for life didnt mean 40/50+ years and maybe it should have some replenishment?

That link has a lovely drawing of the head do you have that on the varispeed one?

I had a look on the Jhead diagram but cant see it on there so here is a pic I found showing the rear of a Varispeed 2J head the pic shows the rear of the head just above the plate is a grease nipple.

Mine does not have a grease nipple but a setscrew like setscrew A but at the rear?

I assume its for greasing the bull gear and greased for life maybe it should have a topup ? any thoughts

Hi,

Does anyone know what the set screw is for at the back of the 2J head its the same as the set screw A on the side but at the rear?

It says the backgears are pregreased for life so is this where they inject grease at factory fill, and is it really greased for life due to the age of the equipment now or should grease be added to replenish due to age?

Thanks in advance

Richard

I have never seen one of these lathes they do look cute miniature lathes.

Bit like a chihuahua of the lathe world! you could have it in your handbag at the rallies!!

Looks good I wouldnt say no to one but I guess that dont count on the register

Regards

Richard..

Hi Jon,

I had the same problem when I purchased my Bridgeport mill, I read lots of things about inverters and static converters changing motors etc and how you need to switch in different capacitors when its under load etc, all of which I did not want to do.

I used to work at a company that made switchmode power supplies and I did not want any of the problems of switchmode electronics driving motors ( been there seen all that pops and bangs and smoke).

I purchased a Transwave Rotary converter and it gives the nearest thing to 3 phase output and it is very reliable its the 3HP version (2.2kw) and you can switch on any thing you desire suds pump power feed to X and Y table all of which is the original fitted Bridgeport equipment.

I then purchased a Colchester lathe 3Hp and then all I do is just plug that in to the Transwave Rotary and it works just as it should no rewiring just plug in and use as the makers intended.

I have seen people fit 1phase 240v motors into Colchester lathes but the machine is pretty much underpowered and worthless in my opinion.

If I were you I would look at getting a Transwave Rotary it uses a real motor to generate the 3rd phase and is a superb piece of kit not the cheapest solution but if you dont want digital converters on everything and worry if you have to switch the suds pump on after the main motor etc then go for the Rotary its the closest thing to having your own 3 phase generator running.

Digital converters are cheaper (but you will need one for every piece of equipment) but they use electronics to create a simulated waveform generated by an oscillator and then a power o/p stage and all this electronics can be upset by spikes on the line or just pop and blow a fuse leaving you to either send it back to the makers for repair(costly) or purchase a new one (costly) or opening it up in hope that you will find something that now looks like a black burnt mess on the pcb.

I also have a seig X2 minimill it has a DC switchmode power supply it went pop blew a fuse took out a potientiometer (speed control knob) and then had to put some new components into it not easy when the original part is no longer made and then you have to look up transistor equivilents etc.

so having worked in the electronics industry makes me more inclined to stay away from it for the purpose of powering up motors.

Well thats my thoughts hope it helps Jon

Regards

Richard..

Quick update Actually I meant not regrease but clean and re oil the chuck as Kwil says, I think if you were to strip the chuck and pack with grease you would never get the balls in or out .

So looks like a clean and re oil today.

Richard..

Hi to everyone,

Well im glad I started this thread now, its great information It seems lots of collet chucks are going to get a new grease up!.

Question to Ian -----So do the balls fall out from the removed screw slot? and I assume they have to be inserted back through the hole to refit. The photos are superb Ian thanks

Yes I can confirm the info sent to me via Ega has a message stating

Clean collets with Parrafin to remove fine swarf collected around the blades after cleaning they should be dipped in a rust preventative oil before being stored or used.

I have today cleaned all 12 collets that came in the set by immersing in parrafin and then allowing to soak in myford spindle oil and the results are great the spring action of the plates was abit dry feeling before, now they are silky smooth

I am going to strip and regrease the chuck in the morning, and in answer to the question from Ega about what lube they suggest, on the original email I asked for info on how to lube it and they said we have no info on the chuck but you could use Pratt burnerd grease, so they want to sell the grease but give no info on how to do it?

Best Regards to everyone.

Richard