Member postings for Ramon Wilson

They were definitely Sif bronze when I was a lad ont' shipyard Noel. Used for brazing and builds rather than flows. I would think 'Suffolk Iron Foundry' (??) would be SIF.

The coloured ends certainly ring a bell but what colour refers to what type I have no recall

I too still have the odd piece of 3/16 dia - turns very well - makes nice little oilers

Tug

A bit more progress has moved things on a bit with the crank and bearings now made. The crank was fabricated from mild steel components and set together with a combination of press fits and very slightly looser Loctite fits to allow assembly without distortion.

The webs were centred on the mill but bored and reamed on a temporary faceplate to ensure uniformity and squareness of bore

Then a locating button was bolted at the correct throw to ensure uniformity for the throw.

Finally after assembly the mains were finish turned between centres using a parting tool ground square and relieved in the centre of its width. (Pic shows tool after regrinding!)

Bearings are made from bronze - soldered together, machined all over, bored and held on a mandrel to machine the outer surfaces to dimension relative to the bore. I find this a much easier method to ensure positioning than boring to the outer dimensions

Another temporary faceplate set up to ensure the piston rod gland and bush are as concentric as possible. The previously drilled holes in gland and bush are being trued using an FC3 cutter before opening up to ream them together. The faceplate is bored to a close fit to take the gland register This should convey the benefit of using a 6mm bolt clamping system over the commercially available clamp sets as recently discussed elsewhere.

Pistons were turned from bronze as well and 0.1mm smaller on bore sizes. The grooves take the PTFE packing which gives an exceptional seal with little friction - ideal for running on air at low pressures

That's it as of today - eccentrics next

Do ask if not sure about anything - I just read a post on another forum where the poster got quite upset because people made comments on 'his thread' (???) - not the case here so please do if you want too

Regards - Tug

Another welcome from 'Sunny Suffolk' Jonathan - wet it may be but sunny in nature from on the border.

Enjoy your modelling whatever direction it takes you.

Tug

John I'm not sure how long ago it was but I fitted a Newton Tesla unit to my Super 7 having seen a friends lathe who had just done similar.

It proved extremely straight forward to install and set up - when it comes to anything electric other than the most basic I'm a complete numpty so was really pleased with that aspect. Though I cannot recall where from I used a (new) motor from a different source to reduce the initial outlay but everything fitted without any issues and performed faultlessly from the off right up to date - just been machining pistons for the latest build this morning. My lathe is bolted to a substantial bench against a wall. Though it required a degree of contortion on my part I did manage to fit the motor without moving the lathe (or bench!)

It made a noticeable difference in electric usage - according to my wife - I put that down to not having that amperage draw on start up. I cannot imagine in the slightest of going back and should the worst happen would unhesitatingly fit another.

Excellent service from Newton Tesla at the time - no connection just extremely satisfied with the product and company.

Hope that helps some - good luck with yours - you certainly won't regret the outlay

Tug

If you can't spare the time to mill two rebates on a short length of mild steel and cut it into one inch lengths before drilling and tapping it doesn't bode well for model making Bo'sun.

It will take longer to respond to this thread than to make a six inch length so I would just get on with it - you'll surprise yourself just how quick you can make half a dozen

Happy Xmas - Tug

Yes 'indeeeedy'. A really Happy Xmas from here in Suffolk to all who help make this forum what it is and wishing all a far better '22 than '21 has been

Have a good break

Tug

Clive's suggestion of using centre drills is just as valid especially as he says you may not have a source of cutter shanks.

Another use for spent HSS cutters of any smaller diameter is to convert them into short length, single point boring tools.

I have (and still have) a narrow parting tool made from an Eclipse HSS hacksaw blade set into a small home made holder. I used this for the very deep slots on one of the Eta cylinder heads without any issues as I recall but Dave is right you need make sure it's solid HSS and not carbon backed.

Tug

Just found this - the grooves are (relatively) very deep. The differing groove width is due to push over as the next groove is done. Interestingly there should be more 5 more grooves in this particular head than shown but I felt that the width and thickness of them if done so would lead to disaster

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 23/12/2021 11:10:18

Rob, I use cut off throw away cutter shanks for a lot of tooling. They would be my first to go for such tooling rather than HSS blanks. High quality tool steel, easily held in a holder and easily ground on the offhand grinder.

You may find grinding one as thin as .6 mm a bit of a task though so in that case I would source a small .6 thick slitting saw and mount it side on in the lathe with one tooth fixed at centre height ie it does not rotate - it works remarkably well as a grooving tool.

The shanks of HSS drills are not hard enough to use as a cutting tool generally - not saying it wouldn't work on soft material and never tried it but the FC3 cutters above make lovely tools

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 23/12/2021 08:14:01

More to follow Rod - the way things are going it looks like it may be a workshop Xmas.

Hmmm - 'Turning and Tinsel' maybe

Seasons greetings etc to you and Sally

Tug

Thanks Jason, always good to hear from you and besides, it's nice to think there's at least one of you

Starting on that crankshaft this afternoon - decided not to use the PGMS and machine to size instead

Back later - Tug

Hi Guys, after far too long an 'aeromodelling distraction', pleasurable as that has been, I finally have set some time aside to progress this engine a bit more.

Began by setting up a base and making a couple of bearers from mild steel (just behind the mic on the shelf behind) but these didn't look right for some reason so decided to use hardwood instead.

With the front columns made it was possible to see if it all lined up - pleased to say it did as there is a lot of holes that have to be in the right place.

Here are a couple of pics of work so far this week - intention is to stick with this until the end of Feb at least, next up is the crank and main bearings

I found that piece of 12mm dia. precision ground mild steel for the shaft - just too short to make the three main pieces - looks like the centre portion will have to be turned from 1/2"

Back when that's done I guess

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 16/12/2021 23:02:58

Like Chris Evans I bought my first Mitutoyo 0-25 mic to the accompanying sounds of derision from work mates.

What I personally liked was the the friction feel thimble compared to the other makes ratchet type again to derogatory comments on it's usefulness and longevity potential.

Well, I was so impressed by it's performance the 25 to 50mm got added then the two M&W imperial mics were replaced, again to the disdain of unconvinced bystanders. Two uni- mics followed along with a depth gauge - all Mitutoyo, all satin finish, light to hold and easy to use and all conventional readout.

They served me well through my working life and some twenty plus years since right up to date - I was using the 0-25 only today, still as effective as when I bought it and just as accurate.

The humble vernier still has its place when measurement is outside the scope of mics but digi verniers are only used for quick identification of size as machining takes place, never direct final measurement. As an aside a guage block can be used to check a mics readout but not the other way round.

As always it's down to personal choice but I'd have no hesitation in buying them again though I doubt I'd be impressed with their current cost.

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 30/11/2021 21:39:57

Hi Guys - The Coy Lady flew very well indeed so I was well pleased with the outcome. Having become a fair weather flyer in my old age it will be next year before it gets another outing though

I've been building another 'classic' period model, another favourite. It's an American design from 1959 called the Tucker Special. I've enlarged it slightly from the original 50" wingspan to 56" and power will be a Super Tigre G21/46.

Again, due to weather conditions it will be on hold until next spring before I can cover and paint it.

Also been doing some engine repair work and dieselising an OS Max FP20 glow motor - very successful.

Hope to be back on the marine engine before long though - anyone else balsa bashing?

Regards - Tug

This happened to a good friend of mine a few years back. Sudden development of health problems that gave him concern when operating machinery lead to a relatively quick decision to seek a dealer rather than the potential vagaries of dealing with lots of different people in disposing of his workshop.

Reasonably well equipped (it had featured in MEW at some point) his first contact was met with a ridiculously low offer which he refused but he was contacted again the following day by 'the boss' who made a much more sensible one. Agreed, it was much less than he maybe would have got by dealing with individuals but he was assured they would clear the shop as he wanted.

They arrived on time, it took three hours and there was no hassle over the agreed amount. In one short period his problem had been solved at a stroke, something his ongoing health problems benefited from.

To maximise a workshops perceived worth is a difficult one but as someone has already said most individuals just want bargains at give away prices - at least a dealer is up front - yes they do need to make a profit but they do solve a problem if you want to dispose of a workshop quickly.

Tug

If you make your clamp bars with a tapped hole in one end - always assuming you don't consider making something for your self to use a waste of time - then the need for stepped clamping is more or less eradicated.

My collection of 6mm capheads range from 8mm long to about 120mm - anything longer I use studding. A reversed caphead in the clamp gives a good clamping supporting surface and is infinitely adjustable

I have a set of those Picador blocks that are shown above - I don't think they've seen the light of day for forty odd years - indeed the way they easily keep falling apart as you're trying to set them up and difficulties of holding them in place on a faceplate led me to the system I now use. If you have a stack of them a caphead dropped through them but short of the table keeps them in line.

It's always desirable to buy 'kit' - not least a clamp kit to mount beside the mill. Depending on what you are going to make of course but something based on the above is far more practical for the milling machine in question than spending on something that for the greater part will sit idle.

As always, it's down to choice - horses etc., but I think I'd rather spend a few hours using my new mill for making something that I will use forever on it and spend the money on something I can't - a decent set of parallels for instance.

What ever way you go Bosun enjoy your machining

Tug

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 19/11/2021 22:40:09

Hi Bo'sun,

Making your own Tee nuts and clamps is not an onerous task and you only need to make what you need 'now' I have used 6mm cap head bolts in varying lengths on both my mills from early on when I faced the same issue as yourself.

I have a box of bolts - 4 of each length and tee nuts to suit both mills. Clamps are an accumulation but account for very little time and are quite small in comparison to the commercial sets. Packing blocks are varying lengths of 1" diameter bar drilled through 6.5 and counterbored for the caphead - they are used on the faceplate at times and the sunken caphead is very beneficial.

They've done me well for many years but it's just a suggestion. Yes it may take time from modelling but it's time well spent and once done are done and you will have a custom product to suit your own personal needs

Regards - Tug

Yes Mike completely agree - here is an example of cheap skating on my part

Friday - before clear coating. All masked and sprayed over tissue - no decals

Monday - after clearcoat went wrong the strip down begins

All a result of using the wrong hardener in the two pack clear coat - by choice, trying to save hardener I used the previous batches hardener with another brand of top coat.

A lot of work to bring it back to this just for trying to be clever

Just one example of a few disasters over the years

As said, "one pays ones money" etc - it all comes down to how much you value the work previously put in I guess.

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 31/10/2021 14:02:45

As a 'naysayer' I'd just like to point out that using anything but the recommended thinner is, like most things, down to the individual choice. Cost is also down to choice - if you want to be a cheapskate and 'save brass' then that's fine too.

The original poster asked for advice - lot's given so far so it's down to him what he chooses to listen to and what he chooses to ignore.

Like him I have often questioned the manufacturers recommendation to use the brand thinner. It's an advice often ignored and often - more often than not - with a successful outcome. However it's when it goes wrong that it's a bit too late once the reaction sets in.

Paints have moved on a tad since the tins of dope and Humbrol enamel of our youth - run the risk of a spoilt job or hedge your bets for the best you can achieve is the basic choice - and bear in mind too there's a huge difference in obtaining a good finish between using a brush and spray gun.

Tug

As a long time 'paint applier' trying to obtain good finishes with a variety of products on varying substrates I really have had my fair share of disasters over time. Like many other situations it's always accompanied with a 'wish I hadn't done that' regret.

Best advice I can offer is whatever paint type you choose is to keep the products compatible and use the recommended thinner - something learnt long ago and always adhered to now. Mixing differing paint finishes from layer to layer can create some very unexpected results too. If you (oneself) don't keep to this principle then you can't blame the paint if it goes wrong, if you do and it still does then it's fair to say for the most part it will be yourself that's wrong.

White spirit thinned enamel paint can be sprayed but it's long drying time compared to cellulose based products makes for a very difficult to apply process fraught with overload potential and subsequent runs/slumping. Another factor to consider with slow drying is the time it has to creep under any masking used.

There is a considerable range of products to chose from but personally I find 'cellulose based products' are far better for spraying in model form due to their rapid drying and their characteristic of bonding with the previous coat and subsequent build up.

I've had some very good results over the years but also a fair number of those heart sinking moments too to reinforce this - not a pleasant time

Regards - Tug

Have to disagree with you there Dave - HSS will hold its hardness at much higher temperatures than that. Carbon steel yes but not HSS. Choo's example tool looks to me as not enough top rake, definitely not enough side rake and almost non existing front rake - for use on silver steel and similar that is (for some reason the image of that was not there before)

You can push HSS well beyond 'blue' before any degradation of the edge will occur - something that regularly happens when machining En24t for example.

As you say though - this can be a complex (to the beginner) but is actually a relatively simple skill to acquire - the main thing it takes is patience and experience, the latter only coming with time elapsed trying and practicing

Tug