Member postings for MikeK

So I rehabbed my lathe drill chuck (in another thread) - and then I found another identical chuck in a drawer and did that one too. I installed the arbor with a 1 lb deadblow hammer, just holding the chuck in my hand. But I was thinking...Is that the proper method? Will it have more runout than another method?

So I removed it and used my car/truck ball joint tool to press the arbor in place. And now I'm wondering...Did I go overboard? It might have been a ton of force I used. Literally, 2000 lbs. based on my calculation. Will the arbor be a pain to remove in a few years? Am I worrying for nothing? Do I need slapped across the face with a fish?

I've not had good results with the 6" steel rule trick. Definitely make a center height gauge for more accurate and quicker adjustments.

Put it all back together this evening. Sorry, I didn't take photos. I cleaned up everything with acetone - outside, on this fine 42F day - after scraping the original grease out with toothpicks. It was like tar! And had accumulated between the jaws, just where it would be no use.

Minimal wear on the jaw and split nut threads. The parts of the jaws that contact the drill bits were as good as new. Lubed everything and now it operates like butter! It wasn't even this good when new. I'll have to do the drill press chuck now. And maybe all my hand drill chucks. I definitely won't wait another 15 years before the next service.

(Yeah, my thinking above on the split nut was silly.)

Nice workshop, Dutch.

Thanks, Jason.

@HDFanarof: Probably too costly/cumbersome to ship to the US?

Lead doesn't have to directly result in deaths to be a hazard...That's really a ridiculous threshold. Removal of lead in gasoline/petrol correlates with a decline in violent crime. And, no, that doesn't mean it should result in NO violent crime.

My thinking on the split nut was that the gap between the halves allows them to move before pressing against each other which would show up as dead space in rotating the collar. I could be wrong.

Re: the clamp: An online force calculator estimates the forcing screw was pressing 9,000 lbs of force. About 100 ft-lbs on the 18" ratchet and screw is 1". No wonder my little arbor press couldn't do the job.

What's the suggested lube inside the chuck? Light coat of gray German CV axle grease with Moly okay?

Where is the ad?

I tried again this evening. This time for the win. Photo shows my setup of a large C-clamp, from an car/truck ball joint service tool kit (Astro 7865) and one of the cup adaptors. That clamp is BEEFY. Ignore the mess in the background. I clamped the clamp to my Workmate, sat on it, and used my favorite 1/2" ratchet (18" long). It took considerable force, but slowly pressed out. Second photo shows that the threaded ring doesn't cover the full circumference, which explains some of the dead space in collar rotation.

Hi Rob. Yes, not like in the video you linked, but is like in the video Neil linked. Not only is the entire collar hardened, but the center body has a larger OD at the back than the front so it can only come out by pushing the front of the body rearwards.

I think it would be good to have everyone's location showing up below their name in forum posts. Much easier than having to ask, or clicking on their name only to find out they haven't turn their location on. All the other forums that I use have the location turned on by default and allow members to turn it off (rare), or, more commonly, the paranoid can enter a bogus location.

It won't be a B6 taper on a chuck that opens to 16mm. B6 is wee. B16 is the small end of an MT2 taper.

But you're not limited for chucks, right?...Just get an arbor that fits the drill's spindle and any chuck that fits that arbor.

I have the Stirling Steele conversion kit (which I think was the original maker?) and the belt cover is a quickly-made bent piece of acrylic. Do post if you make a better one. Congrats on the belt drive, it's a wonderful upgrade.

Remove one of the "cutters" so that the cross bar can adjusted farther out? As mentioned, the "cutters" don't have any cutting geometry, though.

The size of the lathe being used matters. I would think a Chinese mini-lathe would not be up to the task.

Okay.

I tried again with the arbor press, with a cheater pipe on the handle, and my 170 lbs bouncing on it. No luck. It's "buy a new one" time.

Okay, I was able to slide a brass shim between the back of the collar and the central body to a depth of at least 1". I think that assures it couldn't be swaged? Not that it wasn't a reasonable suggestion.

Re: swaged collar...The reason I didn't suspect the collar was swaged is that it is substantially thick and not a tube that could easily be swaged. Seems like extra manufacturing? I'm going to give the arbor press another go.