Member postings for Peter Bell

Thanks thats the conclusion coming to. It all glass hard at present so suppose just softem to machine? How about tacking the new plate wheel to whats left?

Thanks, his truck looks just like that. Cannot find much info on the 3 speed box, most of the info I have found is for larger boxes. Yes a replacement gear would be idea but nothing available as far as I can see.

A new 5/8" plate wheel springs to mind as being cheap and readily machinable/available but the internal spline is a bit of a challenge. 5 splines and measures 0.750"

Thanks everyone, sprocket now off. I was expecting a plate sprocket but its a lot deeper, took a copper drift to tap it through the bearing, nothing wrong with the shaft or sprocket just a perfect fit. There is a rubber seal to replace but the sprocket which is dead hard is grooved where the seal runs so I intend filling the groove with Loctite 3471 which I have in stock.

Looked at the clutch plate again and based on the advice reckon its ok. It was plastered in grease which didnt help.

Peter

Seeing the pics of the BSA C15 made me wonder if anyone with some motorcycle knowledge can help with the dismantling of an Albion 3 speed gearbox fitted to a friends Wrigley Autotruck?

The gearbox leaks oil (didnt they all!) from the input shaft. Looking at some catalogues online and think like there is a felt seal fitted.

However I cannot get the input sprocket off to find the seal. Not sure if its screwed onto the shaft or just a good fit on the shaft? Tried using chain wrapped around the sprocket as a chain wrench with the gear jammed stationary with a screwdriver but no luck. Bit wary of forcing too much in case I damage something.

Also think the clutch corks are worn? Anyone relined a clutch with corks this shape?

Thanks Peter

My 17" x 72" DSG lathe has a resistor delay unit to give soft start. It draws around 8a idling (4.5 hp) and the current goes up as a cut is applied. Just checked and on a cold lathe its pulling around 18a on top speed which is around 10 hp before any cut goes on. I notice on a lot of the larger DSG lathes an ammeter is standard. Great lathe!

Hi,

I have a DSG 17" x 72" lathe with a 7.5hp motor which has successfully run on a home made single to three phase rotary convertor for over 12 years now and never been any trouble with anything I've tackled.. The motor on mine is a Crompton single voltage.

Had thought of going VFD but its works so well not going to bother, great lathe, one of the best things I've bought!

Hi,

Just wondered if anyone has experience of converting a 1980 Bridgeport manual & CNC Milling Machine fitted with Servo Motors and Anilam Crusader to Mach3.

Got a feeling it had been mentioned previously but cannot find it?

Peter

I know its an old topic but never had much success previously with any of the CAD packages often reccommended apart from Vcarve Pro which also generates tool paths to Mach3 for our Siege KX3 mill.

Has anyone used Aspire (expensive?) from the same producer (Vectric) as Vcarve or know if any of the other packages are similar or has a current reccomendation for 3D?

Thanks

Peter

Thanks Ian very interesting. Your googling is better than mine! can only find a very basic link to use in IH bus. Do you still have the links?

Peter

Thanks for the replies.

The patent is an individuals name(Charles Henry Dyke) rather than a company. Is that standard practice? But it does describe the oil pump fitted to transfer oil between the chambers.

Agree John it does look like an automotive compressors but the familiar ones are larger and use the engine lubrication system rather than splash, also have unloader valves in the head. I have a water cooled version on my lorry.

I have seen Gardner engines from the 1930's and 40's with small single cyl compressors for the air assisted braked fitted then before full air brakes came in in the 1960's so it looks like its probably an early Westinhouse automotive compressor and from the patent 20's or 30's

Peter

Thanks for the replies. I thought it was a bit odd with British, Belgian, French & Italian patent numbers, no USA or Germany. Also there seems to be a lot of pattern numbers all over. Is the patent date the last part of the digits? ie 22

Could be Westinhouse but isn it a bit small for a train compressor? Dont know anything about refrigeration compressors, what gas would it be compressing of that era,

A better pic of the end, rather strange logo?

Peter

Sorry, looks like I need more practice!

Hello,

Recently bought this compressor and wondered if anyone can identify it from the pics? Quite well made, 40mm bore x 35mm stroke, splash lubrication but pumped from a lower reservoir by an oil pump on the end with what looks like an adjustable oil pump. The compressor isd in good condition, sized as the oli appears to have turned to varnish!

Thanks Peter

Michael,

Yes will post some pics but it will be possibly Friday, not near it at the moment but looked at it earlier and its ink stamped 17th Jul 1981 or pehaps that was when it was installed or a specilal large replacement.

Saw that doc previously---excellent work,

Thanks Peter

Hello,

I need to make a new gathering pawl for a Synchronome slave movement. The pawl is about 12mm x 5mm and 2.8mm thick and appears to be white nylon. The dial is 600mm dia which is probably why its worn, it only dates from 1981.

My natural instinct is to make one from brass however probably wiser to stick with something like the original.

Not really familiar with plastics, can anyone suggest a suitable material ?

Thanks Peter

The thread is M16 x 1.5 which I think is conduit and probably why I have a tap. Do the engineering steels suggested have any work hardening properties?

Thanks

Hi,

I am making a starter motor for an engine without a ring gear using a belt drive around the flywheel. Basically a stater pinion (approx 2" dia) meshes into a nut on an alternator shaft which is cnced out to allow the pinion to enter and turn the pully, belt and engine. I have the prototype working quite well but only using mild steel for this nut. As the pinion is hard and tough I want to make the drive nut from a better steel but it needs to reasonably easy to machine.

Anyone any suggestions regarding material, EN8 springs to mind or is there a better alternative even if I need to heat treat i?

Sorry for poor descrition and no pics as job not at home.

Hi Steve,

Do you have any further info on the perpetual calendar + strkework for the John Wilding 8 day wall clock you refered to earlier to in the thread? Never heard of these before and cannot find much of a reference anywhere as most of my JW books are 20+ yrs old! Perhaps I have to buy a new copy of the work?

Peter

Hi Russel,

I started making the John Wilding regulator in 1988 and by 1990 had it running reasonably well but it was never very reliable as I was unable to make the pallets work to my satisfaction in spite of making 3 sets. I found them very difficult to set out etc with my knowledge at the time so the project was shelved.

Reading over the years I decided that Vulliamy style pallets as used by C B Reeve in many of his clocks looked a good option and thanks to CAD I now understand how to lay them out and with my Siege KX3 have managed to machine the arms and nibs. These are only semi finished at present but tests with these on the depthing tool look good and I look forward to progressing further soon.

I have read the ball bearing debate over the years and note that a number of "top end" commercial clocks use these and hope to fit these to the regulator after I prove the pallets. I am also constructing a C B Reeve gravity regulator using ball races and although it is not yet running the train will free wheel for far longer that any conventional bushed movement I have seen, and thats before the grease is washed out. I plan to use ceramic balls eventually. I find that small ball races are easy to damage especially if the housings are tight but they are cheap and readily available and I would be surprised if the standard metric sizes used become unavailable over the years.

Good luck with the regulator, look forward to hearing of your progress.

Peter

I have a feeling that I read somewhere that the min speed to get decent ventilation is 8-10,000 rpm for these units. Due to my silly mistake mine failed as it had full power at 1440 rpm and the current limit was set around around 12a---hence no cooling to speak of.

The fan is directly driven from the rotor but a pipe and flange could be added to push cold air through at lower speeds but essentially I think it is designed to run fast which is what its good at.

Will have to get another unit, no run out to speak of and handy with the collect chuck

Peter