Member postings for Peter Bell

Many thanks---thats spot on!

I want to get a piston cast in iron and I am told by a very experienced chap who woked for a large engine manufacturer that they always used a grade 17T flaked cast iron for this purpose.

Is there anyone out there who can convert that to some sort of modern spec so I have some idea what I'm looking for when I ask a foundry about casting it?

Thanks

Good to hear that you've got it sorted. Never heard of that configuration for a motor before so a bit more learned

I've got a DSG 17" as well from 1960 but its only got a single speed motor (7.5hp) giving a top speed of 900rpm which runs on a home made rotary convertor.

I wonder if the two speed motor was fitted on later lathes or if it was an option and what top speed does it give?

John, Hope its ok to revive such an old thread.

Just wonder if you still make your pcb this way using Vcarve?

Thanks Peter

John,

Thanks for the explanation on the KX3. Its a vey useful feature which we'd like to add to the Bridgeport but the problem is we dont know what to look for on the USB breakout boards as most descriptions dont seem to cover things like that. Can you point us in the right direction or does this board have the features?

**LINK**

John,

Itsa parallel port cable machine.

We like using Mach3 with our Sieg KX3 which has the limit switches individually wired to the breakout board rather than just all being in series and just stopping everything.

This seems very useful to us as it not only stops the machine if you excced a limit it also prevents you moving further in the wrong direction with the chance of damage. But it will only allow movement in the opposite direction away from the limit.

Is this a common feature on breakout boards as lots just seem to wire all the switches in series?

Thanks for the comprehensitive and informative reply John.

Thinking about if further after looking inside at the electronics, we dont want to go down a long unknown path with the existing servo's so steppers quickly look vey attractive. We intend using the existing motor brackets and belt drives.

Will 34 nema motors 116mm long be powerful enough, there are aiso 34 nema stepper servo motors which offer more torque at higher speed?

**LINK**

A lot of breakout boards offer usb connectivity as per link, or use do we use a standard board and parallel port connection?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401145598119?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited By Peter Bell on 02/07/2016 14:39:13

Thanks for the replies and especially the breakdown of the componet parts.

Whats the difference between a motion controller and a breakout board? See both advertised.

I suspect your right about the combined drives. Looked at the servos's which are SEM MTS3077 and there is a lot of wiring between the motors and the readout head so it looks shared to me. Was going to put a scope on the wiring but too much! The machine (which is an Ex-Trak) is in really good condition as are the servo's and it all works but doesnt really like G code as expected of 20 year old electronics. Everything is well plugged together, perhaps there is a solution, so I try posting as suggested.

Peter

My son has a Bridgeport CNC series 1 mill dating from 2002 which is fitted with an Accurite cnc controller and servo motors. It looks like the servo motors have an encoder fitted, there are also glass scales which feed into each servo assembly.

As it looks like the servos are self contained is it possito use a breakout board or something like that and use the machine with Mach 3?

Or has anyone has some experience of the machine and is able to point us in the right direction?

Thanks

Peter

Thanks for the reply and suggestions, an awful lot of choice out there, get bewildering quickly!

It looked a lot like that to me as well also doesnt give a lot of details on construction and only has a low power spindle.

I already have a Seig KX3 which is great but as I only want to do brass and plastic engraving also PCB milling its a bit over the top.

Think what I'm looking for is a smallish desk top machine (kit or otherwise) which is reasonabley accurate without breaking the bank!

Hello,

I would like to buy a desktop milling machine preferably one which runs Mach3.

This one fits the bill /**LINK** and wondered if anuyone has any experience of it?

Thanks Peter

Thanks for the information Howards & David. I looked at the Igus catalogue and link and its quite bewildering with all that chioce!

Looks like the bushes I need are used on 3D printers and redily available so going to give them a go.

Peter

I use some LM10uu linear bearings on a ticket numbering machine I have made. The quality of these bearings (perhaps reflected in the price!) does not seem very good and even new ones seem noisy or notchy.

I recently noticed solid polymer replacements for these made by Igus RJM-01-10.

Does anyone have any experience of these dry bearings?

I also want to use a 10mm 300mm long leadscrew on another project and can anyone offer any guidance whether to use a ballscrew or go for a Delrin type nut or similar and single start leadscrew?

Thanks

Peter

Thanks for the replies

Sounds a very neat solution. I'd rather buy a new computer rather than have the same problems once again.

Do hey work wiith W10 and are they as good as they seem?

Peter

HI,

My w/shop computer is dying. Its XP and going to replace it with a Window 7 machine.

Last time I thought of doing this I found that needed an adapter board to go with the 64 bit machine---is it still the same?

Thanks

Peter

Thanks for the info, I couldnt find anything but looks like I didnt look hard enough! From the other posts it seems like they were around in the 1960's, wonder when they stopped being supplied? The wiring is oldish plastic covered so cpuld be original..

I thought the construction didnt look quite commercial but its not badly made. Unfortunatly its been dropped which badly bent the large pulley. Dont want to risk breaking it so considering boring it true and bushing back to size.

Hello,

Can anyone identify or tell me a more about this hacksaw I bought recently?

I cannot see any identification anywhere and it looks like a commercial product, quite well made and heavy. Has a very nice latch arrangement combined with the on/off switch

Thanks

Peter

Ive got an Abene but a slightly earlier model from the mid 60's Confirmed as very sturdy with good table size, plenty of fine feeds and rapids in all directions.

The knee is oil filed and I always suffered leaks from the lifting screw until recently when I renewed seals and gaskets. Mine had also fuffered from coolent getting into this knee gearbox in its working life but I managed to get limited spares from Abene.

Worth checking it doesnt jump out of gear and sounds ok in all rapids.

Peter

Yes it would go on a mandral to machine and there seems a natural line on the back to machine off to.

Never used a shrink fit as John S suggests. If I bore the new plate wheel to 36mm what allowance whould I leave for the shrink fit? and what temp do I take the wheel up to?

Thanks Peter