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Member postings for Julian

Here is a list of all the postings Julian has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hick & Son Crank Overhead Engine
10/11/2014 19:31:30

Thanks for that, Jason. I won't sell it on then. Perhaps I'll have a nibble at it and see how I get on!

The one pictured looks to be twice as big as mine. Mine has a 71/2" flywheel. Or is it just the perspective? My drawings and castings are by Woking Models, whom I believe were bought out by Hemingway?

Julian

10/11/2014 13:43:22

Hello.

I have a set of drawings, plus castings, for the Hick & Son Crank Overhead Engine.

I haven't started work on it yet, as it looks a bit daunting and Hemingway don't have any construction notes for it.

Is there any chance of anyone on the forum having any notes on where to start? Or should I sell the stuff on, and find a more manageable project do you think?

I've built a Tubal Cain Polly, and a Sparey Diesel so far. I have a 5" Boxford AUD, and a cheap Warco milling machine. But I lack experience and expertise - just a humble primary school teacher for past 40 years or so, not an engineer!

Any guidance gratefully received.

Julian

Thread: Milling collet arbor jammed in milling machine
14/10/2009 19:40:50
When I bought the mill, I chose the 3 Morse Taper option because my trusty Boxford lathe has a 3 MT head, and so the collet chuck etc I had been using to mill with a vertical slide on the lathe could be used with the new mill. I had no idea that Morse tapers were a bit of a no no for milling.
The bearing replacement malarkey isn't going very well I'm afraid - don't ask! I think I may end up with a new mill yet.
J
07/10/2009 21:01:55
Just to let all of you helpful engineers know the latest position:
Using the mill after getting the jammed collet holder out, I "discovered" - as many of you suggested -  that I don't have to screw up the draw bar very tight at all, and that it does indeed tap out very easily with a tapered drift if you haven't over-tightened it! Which just shows that you can't learn everything by reading books and magazines. You have to do things, and make mistakes.
Anyway, the rumbling, vibrating and oval holes which the damaged mill produced quickly became unacceptable, so now the mill is stripped right down, the four ballraces are out - it was the big one at the top which supoports the quill in the casting which was shot to pieces by my sledge hammer. I've bought the four new ball races, circa 40 quid for top-of-the-range non-chinese ones, and hope to reassemble the whole thing tomorrow afternoon - if I can remember what went where, and which way up!
I'll let you all know how that goes, if you're still interested!
Once again, thanks for all of the technical and moral support when it was all bad.
Best wishes.
Julian
 
22/09/2009 22:56:53
IT'S OUT !
After thinking about the 15 pieces of advice from 12 engineers  I decided to go for the drift in the slot, for a second time, but with a drift with a very slow taper. So I made one - using the very battered milling machine to mill the sloping side. It's 5 inches long. I rounded the top with a file, to match the round top of the slot, and I greased it. Then I worried about the sideways impact to the quill, so I turned the whole head through 90 degrees and supported the quill underneath with a length of 4 by 4 softwood, put my home made drift in and started tapping it in. It took a fairly hefty bit of clouting, but there was a lot of the drift sticking out of the bottom so I was confident I could hit it back out if necessary, and so I kept on - and bingo, out popped the chuck. To say I was chuffed is an understatement!
Finally I went back to the milling job which I was doing when it all went belly up, to see if the machine still worked decently - and it does. Well, insofar as I get an acceptable finish. But there is a sort of yyyynnnnggggyyynnngggg noise under load, so I guess that means that a bearing or two is a tad the worse for wear after the sledge hammering it received. Looking at the exploded view diagram, there appear to be 5 ball races supporting the spindle, so watch out for a new thread shortly, concerning advice on replacing bearings........
So, once again, very many thanks to all of you for helping me out of a hole. I've picked up a lot of useful knowledge along the way, and will never use a sledge hammer on my machinery again - not even a lump hammer!
Best wishes.
Julian
PS should I send off to Warco for a set of bearings, or extract and check them all and just change the noisy ones?
21/09/2009 20:56:09
John, my ZX15 does indeed have a slot for an MT3 drift, but I didn't have one, so I made one out of mild steel. Unfortunately, when I whacked it into the slot the mild steel smudged and the jammed chuck didn't move!, Now I don't know whether to order a proper drift, or whether to go ahead tomorrow morning and try to make the forked wedges as suggested by Peter.
I think trying to make the wedges will be useful - it'll tell me how damaged the machine is, and if I'm successful, the wedges will be useful and the least damaging way of extraction.
So tomorrow's the day! I'll report on progress (or not) as soon as I can.
Thanks again for all the help so far.
Julian
20/09/2009 20:17:31
First of all, very many thanks to ALL of you, for taking the trouble to reply. I've been working away all week, so this is my first chance to say thanks. I'm going to try and make the wedges, as suggested by Peter. However.... I'll have to use the mill to make them .... so perhaps I'll leave the draw bar off when I start the milling! Using all the precautions suggested by some of you.
I've never been a professional engineer, just read books to gain what little knowledge I have so far, so any H&S issues are on my own head.
I hope the bearings won't be so shot that I can't do the milling.
With regards to over-tightening the drawbar; when I used the collet chuck originally, it was in my Boxford lathe and I tightened it just as hard then - but it used to pop out easily from there. But my boring head, also 3MT, pops easily out of both the mill and the Boxford - so I can't fathom the logic. Anyway, if I get the b***** thing out, I will relieve the middle three fifths as suggested by Circlip.
Once again, many thanks to all and I'll let you know (later this week with any luck) how I get on.
Best wishes,
Julian
PS any of you more-skilful--than-me engineers live near Bristol? !
16/09/2009 11:08:07
I have a Warco ZX15 mill drill, I've had it about 2 years and it's fine.
However there has always been a problem with my Vortex collet chuck, it's a Morse number 3 taper, and seems to be too good! It is very difficult to get it back out when I wish to switch to the drill chuck. In the past I've had to resort to putting a steel bar down through the spindle and whacking it with a lump hammer, not exactly how you want to treat a precision machine! The problem has diminished over the past 2 years - it' was still difficult to get out, but not as bad as originally.
Then, last week, I made the mistake of oiling the taper before using the chuck. Now it refuses to come out. I have tried everything, even a sledge hammer - the steel bar mushroomed. I've tried huge levers to lever it out. It is stuck fast, and I have no idea what I can try. I tried running a blowlamp over the spindle, to no avail.
Any ideas? And why on earth does it get stuck like this? the drill chuck is fine in there, and comes out with a light tap..
If you can offer any suggestions I shall be very grateful.
Julian
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