Member postings for Anthony Knights

Here's my contribution.

See "Mikes Workshop"

**LINK**

Thankfully, now I am retired, I have no reason to drive long distances. A 40 mile round trip to York hospital is about the furthest I have to go. I haven't noticed me driving any slower, although I do take more care to obey speed limits.

An RCD (Residual Current Device) monitors the current in the live and neutral supplies and will open the circuit if there is an imbalance (ie there is a leak to earth). These are usually installed in the distribution boards, but small adapters are available for use with portable power tools.

A NVR (No Volt Release) is normally fitted as the on/off control for a machine tool ( lathe, pillar drill, etc). In the event of a power failure it will switch to the OFF position so the machine does not start un-expectedly when power is restored.

1.5kwatts at 230 volts is about 6.5 amps, so a standard British 13 amp plug should stand 3kwatts. A load of 100 amps is liable to blow the input fuse to your house.

The cable is clipped to the side of the roof beams, about 1 inch from the bottom edge and therefore not near the roof. There are two cables, each feeding 3 standard BC lamp holders, fitted with 9 watt (60 watt equivalent) LED lamps. Each cable is only carrying about 1/4 amp so not likely to overheat.

I may price up 6mm ply as an alternative to the uPVC cladding. I need just under 18 sq. metres which if my maths is correct is about 5 1/2 8ft x 4ft sheets

Thank you for the replies gentlemen.

Anthony

I intend to have "Kingspan" insulating foam fitted between the beams (joists, rafters or whatever) supporting the workshop roof. There are several places where the foam will be in contact with the 1.5mm T&E cable used for the lighting. Is there any risk of the two plastics reacting and the insulation of the cable being damaged?

I intend fitting uPVC cladding below the insulation, unless anyone here can suggest a cheaper, light weight alternative. I don't really want to use plaster board because of damp problems in the winter.

edited for typo

Edited By Anthony Knights on 02/07/2021 14:39:57

I found myself at a bit of a loose end while waiting for some paint to dry, so I decided to investigate 3 LED lamps, which failed recently. I cut the frosted plastic bulb off and saw this inside.

The miniature switch mode power supply is obviously beneath the panel carrying the LED's and connects via the two pins on the white connector towards the centre of the board. When powered up, I found that measuring on the + and- pins of the connector, one lamp read 1.2 volts and the other two, about 110 volts. With the LED boards removed from the lamp assembly, I was unable to get any resistance readings through any of the LEDs.

I then took the board from the lamp with what I assumed was the failed power supply and fitted it in one of the lamps with the 110 volt supply and BINGO, it worked. Not much of a sample I know, but out of 3 lamps, two had faulty LED arrays and one had a faulty power supply.

If I had taken a bit more care when cutting them open,I could have glued the now working one back together and had a free lamp.

A good idea in principle. The snag is that I guess companies will make the price of spares such that it is un-economic to repair your appliance anyway.

Hi there Bob. You have a PM.

Sorry, but to me a BBQ (especially a gas one) is just an upside-down grill. Why mess about with one, when there are perfectly good cooking facilities in your kitchen. More chance of having the food cooked properly, instead of burnt on the outside and raw in the middle and far less risk of burn injuries.

Today I made two adapters for my tailstock die holder to use smaller dies. I should now be able to thread the 2mm studs for the steam chest on the beam engine I am building.

Pedant alert Dave. La Palma is in the Canary Islands not the Azores.

I am not familiar with this particular meter, but I have several "cheapish" digital meters, which all have a fuse in the high current measuring circuit. Current is usually measured in test meters by actually measuring the voltage drop across a small resistor, in series with the supply. It's possible there is a fault with the 5 amp range resistor or it's associated circuitry. (i.e. open circuit joint or faulty switch contact. ) The problem is, you will need another test meter to check it out. Hopefully, someone familiar with this item will be along soon.

Regards Anthony

My local pub is now open after an extensive re-furbishment. The building is a former coaching inn with a large yard at the back with tables for about 40 people. On the walls there are what appear to be old oil lamps which have been converted to electricity. I can't decide if these are genuine, reproductions or something that some designer has made up. What do you think?

I have a video doorbell/intercom. If I get an unknown caller, I can see who it is and speak to them without going to the door. Potential scammers can be told I am disabled (true). Unable to come to the door ( not true) and that I don't have any money in the house (big lie). The door is locked so they get the message and try else where.

If I did get broken into and robbed, I think the robber would be more interested in grabbing the laptop and a few other portable valuables and leaving as quickly as possible. He would hardly be likely to go raking through bookshelves of catalogues and manuals on the off chance he would find anything useful.

Try putting a password on the actual hard drive and then put that in another machine. When I tried it I was asked for the hard drive password before the operating system would boot. The way round that is to do a quick format (from Linux) and then use a software file recovery tool to restore the files.

My latest PC which came with Windows 10 has a thing called "bitlocker" which I believe encrypts the hard drive. This has a 48 digit recovery code, so I'm hoping that would be secure enough for you.

Anthony

My Password Manager is an A5 ringbinder. Keeping passwords on the computer is a bit like leaving the keys for the safe in an envelope on top of said safe.

Edited By Anthony Knights on 03/06/2021 08:49:11

Machine Mart used to sell a version of this machine and I did buy a cross slide from them ( as part of a tool and cutter grinder I was building). They have discontinued selling the lathe but they may possibly still have a cross slide in stock? Otherwise, Jason's suggestion is your best bet.

Understood. You are unique as being the only person in in the entire universe to go on my"Ignore Member" list.

Personally, I think this guy is a wind-up merchant who's extracting the urine. He has come up with objections for every sensible suggestion made by people on this forum. If he's that desperate and genuine about what he wants, he should design something himself. How about this?

If he replies, there's bound to be something wrong with it.

Used on most CCTV equipment in the '70's and early 80's, until increasing miniaturisation caused a change to BNC connectors.