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Member postings for Terryd

Here is a list of all the postings Terryd has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Conversion
10/04/2010 11:24:08
Hi Alan,
 
Good luck with this engine, it is a real beauty when built.  I have the honour of knowing Eric Whittle but haven't seen him for a couple of years, since our 'real ale' village local was rebuilt and turned into a gastro pub!  I'm not bothered about metric or imperial argument I am tooled for both and can slip from one to the other despite being schooled in imperial I had to work in metric as a draftsman. However I am bothered about about the much more serious problem of traditional pubs being closed.  They're one thing we do better than anyone in the world.
 
However, back to the V8, I have seen and held the original engine and seen it running and it is every bit as beautiful as the pictures.  Eric is an irascible old b'''''r but loves to tell anecdotes and talk about his modelling.  This engine has won prizes in the UK and USA modelling events and was once stolen from an exhibition in the USA, but luckily it was recovered.  Eric never did explain how but I'm sure it would have been interesting.
 
He also loved to talk about his wartime experiences in the RAF and was in his element describing the awful conditions for the flight crew of a Lancaster (even though he didn't fly in anger.  great man, great engine.  
 
There is a youtube vid. of the engine running ihere:
 
 
  I have a copy of that video and also have more videos of the engine which I'm sure that I could post somewhere if I can get to see Eric and gain his permission as he has the copyright.
 
Best of luck
Thread: ZA12 - a new option for model engineers?
10/04/2010 10:49:21
Hi Ramon,
 
Having just looked at the website it appears that it is only available in 158kg packs.  it would be great if enough people were interested to make such a purchase viable.  How about the clubs out there?
 
Terry
Thread: Keeping it Clean
29/03/2010 16:36:28
Rather than worry too much about oak dust (I only mentioned it out of interest)  I would be more concerned about using a calico sheet to cover my equipment.  The term 'breathable' is a little misleading, you really should describe it as porous perhaps.
 
In a damp atmosphere this will allow humid air to permeate and keep the level of humidity constant on both sides of the sheet. Added to that is the fact that the cotton that calico is made from is probably the most absorbent textile.  It is capable of absorbing and retaining, large amounts of moisture.  Hence it's use for socks, underclothes and towels.  It is probably the surface coatings you use that are protecting your machines rather than the calico.
 
Myford lathe covers are made of Polythene and the covers we used to buy for our Boxfords were made from clear pvc.  These may trap some moisture but a relatively small volume which is not renewed and a dessicant such as silica gel will absorb that and as the space is comparatively sealed the moisture cannot be replaced.  I always use polythene covers over winter in my quite damp garage workshop and I have no problems.  Worth thinking about.  I'd be glad to hear other comments about this.
 
Regards
 
Terry
Thread: Anodising
29/03/2010 16:02:05
Of course mgj, I should also have pointed out that when using washing soda basic protection is needed.  Thanks for rectifying my omission.
 
Best regards
 
Terry
29/03/2010 14:34:49
Hi Ramon,
 
I have used distilled water as a matter of course in my limited experiments with some success but haven't tried normal tap water so I can't really comment on it's effectiveness or otherwise.
 
Just be careful with that caustic soda, it can do very nasty things to flesh. At least with acid you can feel it and respond accordingly, but not necessarily with Caustic soda.  When my wife worked for an international chemical import / distribution company all the guys handling this material (and other - I will say nasty - substances) they wore rubber suits, gloves and full head protection.  Obviously you wouldn't go to those lengths at home with small quantities but it's better to be aware of the dangers.
 
Regards
 
Terry
29/03/2010 13:43:22
I would wholeheartedly concur with Frank.  Washing soda is perfectly good for home use.  I even use it hot and concentrated to remove enamel paint from small metal items (mostly Meccano) instead of using caustic strippers.  It is also used in the automotive trade to clean oil caked road dirt from components very effectively.  It is slower than caustic soda but much safer and who's in that much of a hurry in our hobby?
 
Circlip, regarding Inkjet inks, I'm not sure how stable these are, the colours in prints tend to fade quite quickly in sunlight,  might this not be a problem.  Worth a test though perhaps.
 
Regards
Terry
29/03/2010 11:36:22
Ramon,
 
The acid concentration should be 15 - 20% according to the experts.  I believe that the industry standard for this type of anodising is closer to 15%.
 
That would be about 1 part acid to 4 or 5 parts water (I stand to be corrected!)
 
I'm sure that you already know that water should never be added to acid but it won't hurt to repeat it here in case any newcomer is not sure.  Always remember the 3As rule - Always Add Acid (slowly).
 
Let us know the results of your experiments and post some pictures if possible,
 
Best regards
 
Terry
Thread: I well be in your side of the pond in may
29/03/2010 10:18:52
Hi Brett,
 
The science museum is quite good You can see animations of some of the engines in the museum here:
 
http://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/on-line/energyhall/theme_See%20the%20engines%20at%20work.asp
 
Copy and paste the link.  If you can get to the midlands the Black Country museum in Dudley is worth a visit, it has the oldest rotative steam engine in existence, and it is still working.  There are many other steam and engine museums in London (and elsewhere in the UK) which are worth a visit.
 
Myhobbystore though is just an online shop I think.  It does not have physical shops, but I may be wrong! Someone will confirm that.  I don't know of any shops that sell models, castings, tools etc in London but there are a few such as Reeves in the Midlands (check Reeves 2000 on the internet.)  and I am sure there are others around, perhaps other posters can help.  use this link to visit Reeves:
 
http://www.ajreeves.com/
 
Enjoy your visit
 
Terry
 
 
Thread: Anodising
28/03/2010 15:32:26
Hi Ramon,
 
There are a couple of useful websites that I have found in the past that explain the anodising process for diy in some detail. you need to scroll down past the sales section of the first one and there is a lot of information below.  The second is a true diy one.  you may find them useful.
 
Terry
 
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
 
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise2.shtml
 
 
Thread: Keeping it Clean
27/03/2010 10:50:15
Hi NJH,
 
Oak contains tannic acid which reacts with steel and iron quite vigorously.  Steel screws are a no no in oak, it is necessary to use brass or stainless steel, or nowadays steel screws with a good quality protective finish such as sheradizing.  You can imagine what effect this tannin would have on steel or cast iron machined surfaces apart from the abrasive quality of the high silicon content.
 
Out of interest, as oak is so hard and corrosive it was traditional to use wooden pegs to hold parts together in carpentry such as structural timbers.  If screws had to be used, say in joinery, then a steel screw would be driven into a correct pilot hole to cut the thread, and then replaced by a brass screw of the same size.  Brass simply could not withstand the force needed to screw directly into oak, even with the correct pilot hole.
27/03/2010 08:03:58
Some timbers, especially hardwoods contain a high level of minerals such as silicon which can be very abrasive.  One example is teak which is very difficult to work with normal tools as it destroys the cutting edges in no time flat.
 
It is possible that such minerals in the form of fine dust ,when mixed with oil on the slideways could form an abrasive mix similar to a fine grinding paste.  I'm not sure what effect that would have, if any but I think that I would wipe off any wood dust before using the machine just in case.
 
Regards
 
Terry
Thread: Q1 Detail photos of Tender
26/03/2010 16:42:40
There are lots of different subjects for the albums if you look.  There are machines, workshops, castings etc, I don't think that the section is reserved for models. 
 
Also from your title of the thread it is not clear that the photo's in question are of a Q1 or even of a locomotive in the case of the 'Prototype' ones.  I would have thought that a couple of albums with a note of referral in the Forums would attract more viewers.
 
After all these are pictures that will be of use to modellers in particular.
 
Best regards
 
Terry

Edited By Terryd on 26/03/2010 16:42:53

26/03/2010 14:34:37
Wouldn't these be better in the 'Albums' section where most of us look for pictures?
Thread: ME thread cutting
25/03/2010 10:38:38
several of the normal tools suppliers stock them e.g RDG see Here:
 
 
Best regards
 
Terryd
Thread: Boring for a Beginner
23/03/2010 17:06:32
If I could only buy one book it would be GH Thomas' 'Model Engineering Workshop Manual'.   Before I could afford it I used to borrow it regularly from my local library.
 
On the subject of Boring, George  Thomas also includes instructions for making excellent D bits for accurate boring and I now use them for any bore up to about 12mm.  However you have to 'engineer' them rather than just grinding up a piece of  silver steel to a rough shape. It's worth learning how to make them.
 
Terry 
23/03/2010 16:57:25
Posted by russell on 22/03/2010 11:33:18:
.....................
 
 i'm working my way through the back issues of MEW. , and i have the last 30 odd years of ME plus some odd older ones. just need a good index!
 
 regards, and thanks.
 
russell 

Edited By russell on 22/03/2010 11:45:23

 Hi Rusell,

there is a good index of ME and MEW articles on the net Here:
 
 http://www.itech.net.au/modelengineer/ 
 
Best regards
 
Terry 
 
 
Thread: Making Harold Hall's Grinding Rest - Plastic Ball?
17/03/2010 21:36:32
Hi there,
 
I made mine with a stainless steel ball handle intended for kitchen cupboards, I bought it from Homebase and it comes with a 6mm threaded hole  It was just perfect and available locally. 
 
I'm sure that other diy  sources such a B&Q sell them.  Much better than the plastic version and they are available in different sizes.
 
Terry d
Thread: How to prepare Hot Rolled Steel for marking/machining
17/03/2010 12:45:04

 
Posted by John Stevenson on 18/02/2010 22:21:21:
You want some stuff called Phosphoric Acid, it's sold at B&Q as brick and cement cleaner, look at the labels and try to get one that 90or 95% acid.
 
 

 

Hi there,
 
Phosphoric acid isn't quite so bad, it is actually an ingredient in Cola.  Just check the ingredients next time you have a Coca Cola - it is pretty dilute though but it will clean a copper coin beautifully!!
 
Terryd
Thread: Thread up to a shoulder.
11/03/2010 12:42:17
Hi George,
 
Welcome to Model Engineering, a normal die will not cut up to a shoulder.  One way to overcome the problem is to undercut the unthreaded portion next to the shoulder with a thin tool similar to a parting tool.  In fact I use a thin parting tool, about 2mm wide, myself for this job.  You just need to undercut to the depth of the thread.
 
If you don't want to weaken the shaft, an alternative is to open out the start of the thread in the female part by sufficient to clear the unthreaded part.  Of course you can pack out the joint with washers etc but this may mean some adjustment in the components and I personally don't use this method unless absolutely necessary as I consider it less than best practice.  Others may disagree of course but you will learn that there are often many ways to overcome problems like this.
 
Terry
 
 

Edited By Terryd on 11/03/2010 12:43:53

Thread: Thread notation
07/03/2010 23:26:40
Hi Kwil,  I didn't know that there could be so many pitches in metric, please enlighten me before I go fully metric so that I know what I am getting into.
 
Terry
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