Member postings for Terryd

Hi Stewart,

If you want retro there is an Australian guy who produces videos on YouTube (I know - more technology but it's not all bad) At the moment he is producing a series on his building a version of the Antikythera machine (ancient Greek mechanical computer) and is doing it using tools and methods that he believes may have been used by those ancients.

He has even made his own files from case hardened mild steel and uses these to cut the gear wheels. His videos include ones which explain how he believes those Greeks adapted their methods and tools in making the machine. Well worth watching.

He goes by the name 'Clickspring'. Just search on Youtube for him and 'Antikythera machine. These videos are also very well produced and are as polished as his excellent craftsmanship which I can only dream of achieving. His videos on making a skeleton clock are also excellent.

His video on making hand files is here:

Hi Charlie,

Looks like a CSB. These were basic lathes made for the education market, mostly secondary schools. I have one of these as well as a later BUD (UD - Under Drive). I must admit that I prefer the Bench mounting of the CSB (and other B and A models intended for bench mounting).

These are sound, capable lathes and if from a school may have dints on the bed etc but will probably have little wear as they had only limited use generally and with care the dints can be stoned out. Collets and draw bar generally sell for a good price especially if you have the collet adapter for the spindle and spindle nose protector which screws onto the the spindle nose thread. I use a different collet system i.e. the ER 32 system. Do You have a compound slide and toolholder?

If there is no play in the head bearings, I suggest you leave well alone they have taper roller bearings back and front. There are instructions on how to set the bearing pre load in the parts lists for these lathes, available for members in the files section on the BoxfordLathe_UserGroup on Yahoo. The excellent 'Know Your Lathe' Book is also available there.

I would personally not use the rear drive belt as a clutch - and I still have all of my fingers. As a lathe user for over 50 years I have seen all sorts of mods which have been made to these machines - most of them dangerous, if the manufacturers had thought it a good idea they would have done it believe me.

Do You have any gears to drive the leadscrew? If not I may have some duplicates I could let you have at a good price, message me and I'll have a look see. Otherwise they are again usually available on eBay. Don't buy a whole set, just the ones you need as you get a bit more experience.

As for help using it MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) have some excellent tutorials on the website search for 'MIT TechTV Videos'. Just found the first lathe video - here-

http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/144-machine-shop-8

There are others on the lathe in the series. BTW there is a list of Boxford serial numbers and dates on Lathes.co.uk.

Enjoy your lathe,

Terry

What a load of Tosh (politely put notice), who gave you the legal advice on that one, I suggest you get a new solicitor.

Next thing is that the Met Office, BBC et. al who are reporting the bad weather around London and the police, the RAC and the AA who are recommending not to travel will all get sued. Whatever next - goodbye, see you all on MEM, nobody seems to be worried about weather reports there.

T

Edited By Terryd on 18/01/2013 13:35:39

I intend to, it appeares that David is making up new rules as he didn't want to hear "bad comments" (? - who decides 'bad' about the show.

T

Moderation on every other forum or comment column I have ever used is applied to individual posts which break the rules of the forum, usually they are: Spam, Pornographic, extremely abusive or libellous, not for curtailing free discussion. I have never seen more than one or two posts moderated, never in all of many years of using the internet, a whole thread.

Whatever happened to the of quoted maxim:

"I do not agree with what you say but I will defend your right to say it"

I thought the internet was all about freedom of speech. Says a lot about this forum, I think I'll stick to MadModder etc in future. At least posts only get moderated according to the rules and not the whims of the moderator.

T

Edited By Terryd on 18/01/2013 12:25:14

Censorship oops moderation - not sure, I think HomeUse is right.

Hear hear,

I would much prefer a new Chinese machine than a clapped out old second hand one. I have never had a problem with any of mine.

T

I see that this forum has joined Red China, Burma, Russia and others as a protector of free speech,

T

The filing rest is not to be used when the lathe is running . It is used when the work is stationary and as pointed by Roderick is used to file flats, squares, hexagons etc on the end of shafts or other parts after turning. An example may be spanner flats or hexagon on a part. It is especially useful when a milling machine is not available and is often more convenient for 'one offs' than the mill.

A good friend of mine who was an excellent modeller used one when reducing the heads of BA bolts for a better scale effect when building his V8 miniature engine.

Regards

Terry

Hi Steve,

I promise that this will be my last post on this subject. Precision as you call it does not lie in the quality of the machine necessarily. It lies in the hands of the user, and these skills comes with experience and training. You could spend thousands on a 'quality' milling machine and still not get 'precision' if you are not skilled enough.

One of my other pastimes is cabinet making. I often get to hear the comment -'oh, I can't cut a straight line', while I can cut a precision dovetail by eye with the same saw they are using. Those novices then spend a fortune on Lie Nielson tools but still can't "cut a straight line or plane a surface flat".

Manual machines are just that - manual, you decide on the settings and you control the cut. The ability to make lovely things accurately is called craftsmanship and you can't buy that.

Best regards

Terry

But the books we discussed also provide free plans and specific construction details to help encourage the inexperienced rather than generic machining tips of the videos you mention which are of more use to these with some basic experience. It's also easier to scan or copy a page of instructions and drawings to take into the workshop than rig up suitable viewing equipment and then scan back and forth in a video to try to find the bit you need. Books are relatively inexpensive, pleasing to browse at leisure, are long lasting and still have a place and a role to play,

Regards

Terry

Thanks for the input Stew, I assumed that it was either a problem with the link or my browswer. I'll certainly try again later,

Best regards

Terry

Hi Jason,

The link you quote gives me a 'database error' on MEM could you check it please,

Thanks,

Terry

Graham,

Thanks very much for that, it is the sort of thing I am considering and the image makes for clarity,

RBest regards

Terry

Thanks for that Derek,

I guessed something like that was happenng, I just hope that Bogs is well and able to carry on ok, I do miss his words of wisdom.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Thom,

You probably can't heat treat them, you may work harden them by planishing with a polished hammer of suitable size. You could always experiment with one of the least useful shapes.

These tools are really made for wax carving believe it or not. We used them by gently heating in a spirit flame when making wax models for investment casting, it was more a case of 'wax forming by melting' rather than a simple straight forward carving process. Therefore they didn't need to be particularly strong or hard.

Regards

Terry

Hi all,

I have decided that I need a Backstop for my Milling vice and some time ago saw a great design by Bogstandard on MadModder. however the pictures have now disappeared from the thread on there and HMEM. I was hoping that perhaps someone had saved a copy of one or two of the pictures. If so I would be very grateful to look at a copy, preferably via email if John doesn't mind. I respect the fact that he has removed them from the public domain so perhaps he would not like them to appear here.

If you do mind them being viewed, even privately John please say so and I will respect that wish as well.

Regards

Terry

Hi Steve,

The collet holder and cap of the 'E' system does take up a little 'headroom' but much less than a drill chuck or say a Clarkson style holder. You have to have some method of hiolding milling cutters and this is probably the best

As for R8, it is simply a taper locating system as an alternative to Morse Taper. The 'E' collet holders are available for both systems, You will probably have a Morse taper on your lathe hence personally I keep to those on both my lathe and milling machine but others prefer the R8 taper for their milling machines. As for an R8 to Morse adaptor, I personally prefer not to add yet another link in the chain which may lead to inaccuracy - I'm just a simple bod at heart (and in mind perhaps )

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 16/01/2013 17:06:55

Hi Peter,

while Mr Bray's writing is aimed at the inexperienced I wouldn't say that his book is too basic, after all he extends the work of Tubal Cain by including information on the use (and making) of threaded glands and union nuts for steam pipes and cylinders, reversing and regulator mechanisms and a variety of safety valve types and more. Further his chapters on boilers goes well beyond that of T.C.s.

His final project is a rather nice 'De Winton' style locomotive with a twin, double acting cylinder engine with a compound crank for the driven wheels which would run on 0 gauge rails. I wouldn't call that more basic than Tubal Cain.

Regards

Terry

Hi Ketan,

Hope Christmas was ok and that you're keeping well. I agree with you on the plastic gears, putting a weak link into a drivetrain is considered good engineering practice, better to have a cheap plastic gear or shear pin fail than an expensive motor or worse.  I recently had a shear pin fail on my lathe, if it had been replaced with a stronger one as some have advised elsewhere it would probably have sheared a couple of gears in the gearbox.

We always designed our drive units (overhead conveyor systems and other materials handling equipment) with shear pins or similar as a fail safe to prevent damage to expensive equipment or operators. I too would be very wary of replacing such a device with an alternative which doesn't break but causes much worse damage.

Looking forward to visiting ARC again soon,

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 16/01/2013 16:33:34