By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for HobbyNut

Here is a list of all the postings HobbyNut has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 1 2 3 4 5 6
Thread: Emma Victoria
12/02/2013 00:31:38

I just uploaded some photos of my progress. I am attempting to keep up with the articles!. I know I will get behind, as I am fabricating/making from barstock. No castings will be used. I work as a programmer for a waterjet company, so parts are "easy" to get.frame assembly.jpg

This is what I was going to do about the shortage.

emma crank keeper.jpg

Edited By HobbyNut on 12/02/2013 00:57:04

08/02/2013 15:20:52

I too am building an EMMA. So far I have the wheels, frame, axle boxes and water pump almost finished.

I have a general ?. I have read that in "normal practice" the leading pin, when quartering, is on the RH side. Is the pin on the LH side, above or below the axle centerline? I guess below, because leading would be in "forward " direction of travel. Is this right?

Thread: Free drawings
30/06/2011 15:53:01
After all of that....Thank You David for your speedy answer/s
As an aside. I am 63 now, and when I was 14 or so I was given ME magazines from about 1951 onwards to about 1962. Unfortunately i had to dispose of them before moving countries from Australia to Canada in 1972.
27/06/2011 18:27:36
Is there a way of getting the "Free drawings" that come with the paper subscription issues, when you have a digital subscription?
Thread: My Farm Engine
18/12/2010 21:25:03
Thanks Jason, I will try a lighter spring.
 
Pat.
18/12/2010 17:35:56
Thanks John for the reply.
I did do just what you suggest as far as running in is concerned. It turns very freely. There are no rings on the piston, this design did not ask for them. I am going to try the WD40 trick to see if it helps.There is a "noticable" suction at the carb/needle valve intake when turning it over, so there is something happening at the intake . I cannot see the intake valve moving, and I have lapped it in good, it shows no form of leakage.
 
I guess I have to try a few other things, or maybe make a new piston c/w rings or 1 ring.

Edited By HobbyNut on 18/12/2010 17:37:58

Thread: Compression Ratio required
15/12/2010 16:34:18
My Farm engine is complete, has spark, and some compression. I had read that these engines do not like too much compression, and I have read recently that you need "good" compression. The original plans had the piston stopping about 3/8" down from the head, and there was little to no compression. I moved the cylinder and head so that there was 1/2 that amount of space, and it now shows "some" compression. It will not run, I can get a slight feel of firing if I use some butane as a fuel, but not so that it will run any more than 1 fire, and it is not enough power to turn it over 2 revs. It will not even fire with petrol or white gas.
With the spark plug out, I can flick the flywheel and it will turn over about 3-4 rev's. With the plug in , the same flick will only turn it over about 1 1/2 rev's.
Any suggestions, from anyone.?
I posted some of this under Beginners Questions, but didn't get any responses.
Thread: Details Required
13/12/2010 18:23:19
That should be MM plans...Issue1 #'s 6,7, 8,etc. This dwg is in Issue 8 page 452.
 
13/12/2010 16:03:05
I am building this Sweet Sixteen from ME plans, via magazine, and I am perplexed with the safety valve arrangement.
The details for the pieces are there, but I do not see how they are assembled, or how it works. Should there be a spring somewhere in this assembly?
Also, will a scaled up version of this valve be OK?
Thread: My Farm Engine
13/12/2010 15:56:12
How much compression should an engine like this have.
When I turn it over, it does feel like there is some, and this is after I moved the cylinder assy. 3/16 of an inch closer to the crank than the plan said to!!, but I don''t think it is enough.
The original cyl head to top of piston was almost 3/8"..the bore is only 7/8". I have lots of spark, it fires at TDC.
I hope to add some weights and make it a H & M.
 
 
Thread: Steam Locomotive timing
09/10/2009 17:41:15
Being a "newbie" to steam locomotive construction, I am having difficulty getting my motion timed.
I have built a "Big Goods" from ME, and I have assembled it, and can run it on 1 cylinder, in 1 direction only, either forward or reverse.
I cannot figure out where the eccentrics on the drive shaft have to be in relation to the crank. The reversing lever arrangement does not appear to move enough to reverse the engine ,but just enough to stop it. I have quadruple checked all the connecting rods, links etc for length and c-c distances and everything is "as per drawings"....
A diagram of where the slide valve should be at 0, 90, & 180 degrees of crank travel would help.
I am in Canada, and have been building this, from scratch, i.e. no castings since about 1996 or so.
<< First < Prev 1 2 3 4 5 6
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate