Here is a list of all the postings Aidan Browne has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: What DRO to get? |
28/08/2012 23:44:20 |
Thanks to everybody that has taken the time to respond to me. I have gotton some really good information and it has really simplified what choices I should make as I had information overload before by reading all the different websites. I will hopefully pick out a system and run it by you all before I make a final decision in the next week. Thanks again, Aidan. |
27/08/2012 12:40:27 |
Hi, I have an Ajax milling machine for the last couple of years. I think its a ajt1. It looks the same as the one in the link **LINK**. I have tried looking up getting a DRO system for it but there is so much information on the net and it's overload at this stage. It would be for the X & Y axis with the option of a Z axis maybe down the line. I don't need a top of the range bells and whistle one but one of decent quality. I make a lot of bushes and brackets etc for motorbikes but I have some model kits that I would like to get to sometime so I don't know if that influences my choice. I have looked up the forum and can't find any definitive guide (Sorry if there is). But if anyone could point me in the right direction or give me some links I'd appreciate it. I have emailed **LINK** for some information but never got any response. Thanks, Aidan. |
Thread: Parting Off a Piece with multiple holes in the centre |
05/06/2012 19:33:30 |
Got sorted anyway. I took the advice above and cut them with a stainless cutting disk in the small grinder then faced them. Worked out nicely, just had 2mm of extra stock when finished. Hi John, that's some pretty heavy duty modification your doing. You'll have some severe stopping power when you make those modifications. Send me a pic when your done. |
04/06/2012 15:52:41 |
Thanks for everyones time to give me advice. I drilled the holes in the piece first as I put it in the Mill and it saved me changing chucks and spending time messing with the 4 jaw trying to set it up plus with my measuring I'd probably be out between the 2 pieces. I was hoping to part it off because the amount of stock I have is fairly tight. I think the best suggestion on the board is to take it out and cut it witht the band saw and face it. I think because it's 19mm to the centre my parting off tool is out further than I've ever had it out before and is vibrating a lot. By the way it's for a custom swinging arm I'm making for cub90. Bit off the wall but it keeps me out of the pub. **LINK** I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks. |
Thread: Construction Material |
04/06/2012 00:33:57 |
I have bought Model Engineers Workshop for the last 4 years and really enjoy it. The only suggestion I would have is if a list of material or stock used could be put in a box on the article. The dimensions and drawings are always there and sometimes a reference to the material used. But I think a small box with the stock material would be really helpful.
Aidan. |
Thread: Parting Off a Piece with multiple holes in the centre |
04/06/2012 00:24:33 |
Hi,
I'm making a pair of eccentic chain tensioners for a project I'm working on. The piece is a 38mm stainless steel bar. I have drilled a 12mm hole for the axle and 2 x 8mm holes for the tensioning tool to tighten the axle.These are like a trangle inside the diametre of the piece. I have a small clarke lathe. I tried parting off and the moment the parting tool (It's a glanza tool with inserts and a 2mm wide tip), broke through the first hole it jamed and bent the tool holder and the tip fell out. Before that it was curling off swarf perfect. I reversed the tool in the holder and fed it in at a slower rate and near the centre I heard a crack and the tip of the tool broke. I've no formal training on the lathe and any help to point out where I'm going wrong would be really appreciated. Image of something similiar if it helps http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-maintenance/chain-adjustment/pinch-bolt.jpg
Thanks, Aidan. Edited By Aidan Browne on 04/06/2012 00:25:28 Edited By Aidan Browne on 04/06/2012 00:26:07 Edited By Aidan Browne on 04/06/2012 00:27:57 |
Thread: Anyone used an Inverter with a Colchester Student |
13/12/2010 22:48:08 |
Hi, I got the chance to get a Colchester Student Lathe 6" recently and I don't have 3 phase near the workshop. I have an inverter that I have used on my Ajax mill for the last year without fail and I was wondering about using it on the Colchester as well. The Ajax mill was easy to wire up simply changing from Star to Delta. But the Colchester looks a bit more complicated. For example it is a 2 speed motor and it has a circular set of connections. I'm attaching a photo. If anyone can help I would be very grateful. Thanks, Aidan. Image of electrical connection http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/scruffyneck/Image0064.jpg . Edited By Aidan Browne on 13/12/2010 22:56:56 |
Thread: Ball Nose Mill Cutter, did I break it? |
26/04/2010 23:35:15 |
Hi lads,
I'll try the file and slot drill method and let you know how I got on. I have a Clarkson milling chuck that came with the mill it's an Int 30 but I only had the 4 basic collets. I found it really good but I have started using the ER collets lately as they are so handy to change.
I'll let you know how I get on, and thanks for the advice. |
21/04/2010 22:19:13 |
Thanks for the quick responses. I have milled the other side of the same casting flat with an end mill and it went through it like butter so I think the castings are OK. All the other castings I have worked in the kit have been OK also.
I was running the Ball nose slot drill at 600rpm approx. I think it's beyond a file it just deteriorated in a second and barely marked the casting. The flutes at either side have lost their correct width now, so I think they are useless.The edge on it was very sharp but obviously very soft. I don't know if this matters but there is an initial semi-circle in the casting and I'm just trying to enlarge it to the correct size.
I had trouble finding a ball nose drill from any of the online shops. I have bought a lot of the stuff I needed from Chronos and they have been excellent but they do not have a Ball Nose slot Drill in the size I need.
As I said earlier I am very new to model making and could be going about this in completely the wrong way. I'm really enjoying it at the moment and it's very addictive. If there is a better way for me to carry out the job I need to do, I would be glad of your advice. |
21/04/2010 17:25:58 |
Hi,
I have just started making a Stuart D10 stationary engine and I needed to make a 7/16 inch semi-circle on the bed of the engine for the crank carriers to sit on. My plan was to use a 7/16 inch ball nose cutter to do this.
I order one on Ebay with the description
7/16 INCH. BALLNOSE SLOTDRILL 2 FLUTE HSS GRD MADE IN ENGLAND PLAIN SHANK INDUSTRIAL STANDARD...
it arrived and I set up the engine bed on the mill and gently plunged the cutter into the casting. It didn't sound like it was cutting well and removed it immediately only to see that the flutes had been worn away and the tool was overheated. It's only cast it's going into and none of my other cutters have had a problem. Did i get a dud or did I do something wrong.
|
Thread: Can somebody describe this Clarkson Chuck |
10/09/2009 20:44:26 |
Thanks John. |
09/09/2009 23:03:56 |
Hi,
My father was at the great Dorset Steam fair last week and he picked up this Clarkson Autolock Chuck for me. I'm only getting into milling and have just got an Ajax mill. It has an International 30 spindle. My father thought it looked the same and bought it. It is an International 50 but it has an additional adjustable dial that can be set by loosing a allen socket in the chuck.
I'm not that well up on industrial stuff and was going to sell it on ebay if I can describe it properly or if anybody here on the forum wants it. Although I suspect that it's far to large for a small workshop.
It seems to be be new but some slight marking on one side of the the taper from being moved around although no scoring and virtually impossible to feel it on it by running your hand over it.
Thanks,
Aidan.
|
Thread: Phase Converter Which Type? |
17/08/2009 22:36:44 |
Hi All, Just to give you an update I bought an Inverter from Direct Drives in Nottingham. They were £212 to buy direct but he was also selling them on ebay where I bought mine for £137 which is a 3HP Inverter. It was really east to set up I just chanded the motor to a delta configuration (5 minutes) and wired the inverter direct to the motor. I bought the remote control pad as well which cost me £20 but I have forward / stop /reverse on one switch and a variable dial to control the speed of the motor also.(Also still use the mechanical speed control on the mill, which I think I will use) It took only a couple of minutes to wire and setup and so far so good. I have not done any heavy milling yet to see if it will drop in power, but I'm assured from direct drives that it will work fine. I'll keep you posted if there are any problems. Thanks for the advice ![]() By the way: The inverter will not drive any transformers just motors so I got a cheap industrial 110V building site tranformer and wired my power feed to it so I'm setup now. You can buy inverters that will do such a thing (plug and play I think they are called), but they are big money. |
04/08/2009 22:26:42 |
Thanks for taking the time to write such detailed responses. I'm convinced now to go for the Inverter type. I was looking on Ebay and came across Direct Drives and this inverter http://cgi.ebay.ie/3HP-3-PHASE-INVERTER-CONVERTER-LATHE-MILLING-DRILL-SAW_W0QQitemZ270404656397QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_ Industrial_Automation_Control_ET?hash=item3ef55f9d0d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 I rang and was speaking to dave who told me about having to get the added control pod as he put it which is exactly what david above has kindly put up the plans for. Also the motor has to be change from a Star to Delta mode. If anyone has any experience of these Direct Drive Inverters I would like to hear from you. The feedback on Ebay seems to be positive. I have a power feed on the table which as far as I know is 110V so I will have to buy a 230-110 Transformer for that as well. But at least I'll be set up properly. Edited By Aidan Browne on 04/08/2009 22:27:44 |
02/08/2009 23:17:17 |
Hi, I recently got the chance to buy an Ajax AJT4 Turret Mill with a 3Hp motor on it. I only have a standard single phase supply and I am wondering what sort of converter to buy. The more I read the more conflicting information I get. A Static Converter has to be matched up and it seems that there is no overload protection and you are not really getting true 3 phase. More like 2 phase and a phantom 3 phase. Rotory Converter seems to be a good job but has to spin up to speed and remain running. Not Really ideal for start stop milling work. The one I like is the Digital Phase converter but there seems to be some controversy about the supply drawn from the mains. I would really like to hear from anybody that has experience in this area as the more I read the more confused about the truth I get. Thanks. |
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