Member postings for John Rudd

The foot switch needing to make to STOP the machine is the not the best way.......

if a wire were to become detached , then your E stop is ineffective........

cant you rewire it for a nc contact? 

Edited By John Rudd on 25/01/2014 20:52:32

Metal filler?

I presume it's cast? Welding an option?

" The terminals have two red wires and two black. As it was wired - one red and black together for neutral, end other red black pair for live. Wonder if that makes sense."

Somewhere in amongst all of that will be the switch....

the main winding will be the run winding , you should be able to identify that as the start winding goes thru the centrifugal sw....with you meter on ohms check which pair goes open when you operate the switch....

ideally megger the windings to check the insulation.....

Edited By John Rudd on 21/01/2014 20:01:16

That saw has never seen a billet.....it's far too clean...

I can endorse the use of blades from the Dragon saw guy too..Had numerous blades from him...

but still my motor runs cool...

I have exactly the same saw...no probs here...

if it's running hot, then there's a prob with the motor IMHO.....these motors are pretty simple, is the fan turning?

otherwise it's either a cap issue or windings......

opportunity to go to 3ph and a vfd?

There are orig KB boards as fitted to some machines and then there the Chinese clones.......

the clones come I two flavours...the early ones used thru hole components while the later versions use smd technology.....in both cases the circuit is exactly the same.......

Michael,

I contacted KB directly and got an official copy of the KB series circuit diagrams....

Was a long time ago and I think they don't supply anymore...

Also have a copy of the install/setup manual

These docs have really been useful in my repair work for these boards....

Incidently, the Sieg X3 mill uses a very similar circuit for its speed control.....

Michael,

I contacted KB directly and got an official copy of the KB series circuit diagrams....

Was a long time ago and I think they don't supply anymore...

Also have a copy of the install/setup manual

These docs have really been useful in my repair work for these boards....

Incidently, the Sieg X3 mill uses a very similar circuit for its speed control.....

Nice to hear a happy ending.......glad you got sorted.

strange that it was working one minute and then not working....

i have mill from Chester with the same board and never missed a beat.....(having said that am I'm tempting providence?) good job I have spare boards.....

Edited By John Rudd on 13/01/2014 19:18:59

You don't mention how long these spacers are?

Graham,

I have the Rage 14 inch chop saw.....it has the tipped blade but runs at around 1400rpm as opposed to something like 4500 rpm on a conventional saw....

I guess it runs slower because of its diameter....looking at the smaller saws with say a 185mm blade they're turning at around 3700 rpm....guess you could just buy the blade with a matching bore for your saw...

Any update Graham?

how did you get on with Chester?

Well sometimes things defy logic.....no matter how rational your thinking...

good luck with your fault finding ....

do let us know what you find.. I like a happy ending

Sounds like there's no power reaching the nvr switch...if you press and hold it in, does the green power lamp come on? If it doesn't, you need to check the guard switch

if not you need to check the wiring from the plug upto the nvr switch...

do you have a multimeter/ how to use one?

please make sure you do cold checks with the plug removed from the mains...We want your reply....

Nothing up north as yet....

my local smiths haven't had deliveries yet!

very disappointed

Edited By John Rudd on 30/12/2013 10:59:36

Should have read no better.... I think..whatever.....I best stop digging....

...errm basically, they are the boys!!

Edited By John Rudd on 29/12/2013 17:16:36

John,

you could do no worse than chat to the guys at Cupalloys....they really are the guys in the know....

personally I use a butane torch for small stuff, but then use a propane torch where more heat is required...on bigger stuff.

Merry Christmas to you all from me .......

have a Prosperous New Year and may all your mistakes be little ones

Rod,

The copper pipe used for car breaking systems is suitable for use on systems like ours.....

the wall thickness is such that it will withstand pressures greater than 1000psi....

you could Google the pressure rating of copper pipe for the given wall thickness....

Check out the link below.....

http://www.swagelok.co.uk/downloads/WebCatalogs/EN/MS-01-107.pdf

Edited By John Rudd on 23/12/2013 20:25:19

Sticks and stones..... Buddy!

i couldn't care less what people think of me personally, life is too short and so is this reply.

but that said, the forum does provide a lot of info and help....