Member postings for Maurice

It certainly would be great to be able to buy the castings today, even at a relistic present day price. I have dismantled it now. Everything came undone nicely. The screws are tiny, but not B.A. Perhaps Whitworth; I have seen them listed down to 1/16". The flywheel has been very nicely machined, and incorporates the eccentric. The connecting rod, and the eccentric rod are made from nickel silver. No percepable wear in the strap but the eye the other end is very worn, as is the little end on the con. rod. The finish on the bed / cylinder casting is quite poor under the paint (whats left of it). Perhaps it was purchased with a finished flywheel, and the rest, home done, as Bob sugested. The slde valve is tiny, and very well made. Its all a bit of a mixture realy. I intend to repaint it, and probably do somethig about the worn parts, without discarding anything . I will post a picture when its done. Thanks again for all the feedback.

Maurice

Thanks for the feedback gents. I'm sure it is the same engine as in the link to the Basset-Lowke catalogue page. Thanks again.

Maurice

Can anyone identify this old engine please? The cast iron flywheel is 3" in diameter, anf the engine is 6" long overall. The cylinder and bed are cast in one in brass. The bore is about 3/8". There are no markings anywhere. At some time, a brass block has been soldered to the pedestal. I intend to remove this. Any sugestions about the maker would be welcome. Thankyou.

Looks a fine engine now! You perhaps should look inside the cylinder. I aquired an ancient and much worn Stuart No.1. All Whitworth threads. When the piston was withdrawn from the cylinder, the piston ring gap was filled with a piece of rubber electrical flex!

You could ask Stuart Turner where they source the studs used in their engine kits, although the new owners are very busy at the moment, sorting everything out.

Concerning your grasshopper beam engine, I have an aditional photograph of this engine that I believe Anthony Mount did not have. He drew the swinging frame as having curved sides . They are in fact straight. I hope this is of some help. It wont be if you have already made it of course! I'm afraid there are a nubmer of discrepancies between Anthony Mount's model and the photos. These, and all of George Watkin's photos are held at The National Record, English Heritage. I think you would find it worthwhile to obtain copies.

I have a chip "deflector" on my Super 7. It is cut and moulded from a large plasic milk container. There is a slot in the centre, the edges of which are moulded downward with heat, to fit in the gap between the bed shears. It is held in place by a screw, spring and a piece a plate screwed into the tapped hole intended for the travelling steady. It is also moulded to be biased downwards, so the when the gap in the bed is reached, it folds down into the gap. I have rarely contacted the chuck with it, but if I do no harm is done. In use the chips from the tool fall harmlessly into the gully running down the centre of the bed. It is most efective with iron and brass, which are the worst for finding their way under the saddle. It is not effective with curly steel swarf, but this is too large to get where it shouldn't anyway.

Thanks for the link to the video. It certainly looks a fine engine, and has encouraged me to persevere with the one I have in hand.

Hi there,

Has anyone out there had any experience of building a Stuart Turner 800 gas engine please? I am helping a friend with his, and the drawings leave much to be desired. The current problem is with the casting that carries the gas and the air valves. Some of the dimensions are taken from the edges of holes, and are contradictory. Others just seem completely wrong. I would welcome any help, as I dont want to "guess" on someone elses project. Thanks a lot.

Maurice Cox

Hi Mike,

Regarding the early Super Seven clutch, this was an expanding ring of iron inside the cone pulley. The pushrod to opperate it has a "ramp" which forces a wedge into a gap in the internal ring. If you look in the bottom of the belt groove on the largest pulley on the countershaft, you should see a screwed plug (mine is missing!). this gvies you acccess to the adjuster.Rotate the assembly inside the cone till you see a hole. Inside this is an alan grub screw,this is the adjuster locking screw. Remove the grub screw . You should now be able to screw the actuating rod in and out to adjust the clutch opperation. Not sure if this is another alan key job, or a flat screw driver. Replace the locking grubscrew when finished.

I have the manual for the early Super Seven. If you can give me you email address, I will copy the relavent parts for you.

The serial number is on the rear of the bed at the tailstock end.

I hope this helps

Regards Maurice

Hi Chris, yes multicore solder takes on brass very well, particularly if you apply a little flux from a tin first, to help the resin core. Make surethat the metal is free from gease.If you are heating with a torch, apply the heat away from the join you are making. Let it heat by conduction, to avoid burning the flux. I think I would favour tapping the holes a suitable size, and screwing in a threaded piece of brass rod. Just thread the end of the rod, so that the thread is tapered, apply a drop of "Locktite" or similar, screw the rod firmly into the hole(s), cut off and file flush. If you do not care for chemical sealants, you could lightly countersing the tapped holes, screw in the two pieces of threaded brass rod, then run some soft solder roud the counter sink.

I hope this is some help

Regards Maurice

I have just aquired an example of a De Walt DW755 linisher-grinder. The right hand end has a white grinding wheel with a water bath. At the other end is a belt linisher. When running, the front of the grinding wheel rotates upwards, the same as another water cooled grinder I have. However, this is also the case with the linisher belt, it moves upwards, tending to lift the work from the table. Is this correct? There is no means of reversing fitted.

Thanks for all the feedback. I have no intention of using petrol for the obvious reason, and paraffin is a bit smelly. I have taken up Mick H's offer of drawings. Thanks to you all once again.

Does anyone have a design for a meths blow lamp, suitable for firing a centre flue boiler? I know that the current preference is for gas firing, but I would prefer meths. I have just seen one opperating on ebay (end of April). Just what I want. Years ago, Stuart Turner used to list some sort of blowlamp, although I am not sure what fuel it used. Perhaps someone has one that they could photograph or measure for me. Thanks in advance for any imfromation that anyone can give me.

The jewelers' supply firm Cookson Gold list 30gm syringes of silver solder paste in three different melting points. The cost just under thirty pounds per syringe. It is an excellant way of getting the solder just where you want it, and have confidence that the solder has fully penetrayed the joint.

Is soft solder acceptable for fixing the brass olives on a steam pipe? The pipe in question is 3/8" diameter, and the maximum preasure is 60 lbs/squ. inch.I have silver soldered one on, but they tend to melt!