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Member postings for Peter Gain

Here is a list of all the postings Peter Gain has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Lathe/Milling Machine combination
15/12/2009 19:03:18
Give careful consideration to buying a used Myford or Boxford. The quality of either make them a pleasure to use. See Tony Griffiths web site.
 
Thread: Model Engineer Exhibition
10/12/2009 19:13:44
Agreed, a good exhibition, but looking at the time of your posting you must have sneaked off early!
Anon.
Thread: Fire Extinguishers For Small Workshops
07/12/2009 14:05:19
Hi David,
Thanks. Please place the article in ME. I subscribe to this one!
Regards,
Peter Gain.
07/12/2009 12:19:00
Hi,>>

Are there any Fire Officers out there who are also model engineers?>>

Will someone with authoritive knowledge of fire protection please comment on a suitable fire extinguisher for use in a typical model engineer's workshop? Ie. containing (say) a propane bottle, some small cans of various paints, thinners, oils, & etc. Sensible suggestions from qualified persons will be appreciated.>>

Peter Gain.>>

Thread: Milling Tools
27/11/2009 21:00:39
For good quality taps etc. try Folkestone Engineering &/or Millhill Supplies. They both sell UK/EU/USA made products. Both are easily found on the web. Folkestone currently advertise in ME. I have found both to be reliable.
Peter Gain.
27/11/2009 16:41:45
Purchase Harold Hall's "Milling, A Complete Course", Workshop Practice No. 35. There-in is much useful information & advice on making simple milling aids. The making of these will provide a basic knowledge of the mill & it's use & prove to be a good foundation.
As to turning tools, you have purchased a Myford, why spoil it's potential by purchasing Far Eastern tooling? Always ask the supplier of items such as drills, tool steel, milling cutters etc. for the country of origin. Far Eastern mills (& presumably lathes) can be worked on to make them surprisingly accurate but their idea of cutting edges is dire.
Peter Gain.
Thread: model engine builder
26/11/2009 20:13:58
I also have subscribed to MEB from issue 1. No problems, just send your card details, it's as easy as buying from your local WHS! As it is a small operation, issues are sometimes delayed. Worth the money.
Peter Gain.
Thread: workshop and tooling requirements
21/11/2009 17:22:09
Hi Stephen,
First decide which type and size of model you intend to build. Will you build small ICEs or 5" g locos? Go for the largest machines that you can house. A mill/drill though not essential makes life in the shop so much easier. Setting up for milling in the lathe can prove rather laborious. A lathe is intended for continuous cutting, a mill is built for intermittent cutting. The moment that you set up for milling you will find a need to turn a part. Grinder, essential. Of one thing you may be sure, which ever size shop and machine size that you settle for, next year it will be too small! Make sure that you insulate your shop.
Peter Gain.
Thread: Safety
20/11/2009 12:09:31
To The Moderator,
Is it possible to have two separate forum theads? One for sensible augument, debate, and information exchange and a separate one for the sarcastic, supposedly funny, and downright childish out pourings.
Peter Gain.
Thread: true Space
19/11/2009 19:17:59
Hi John,
I purchased TurboCAD v 8 a few years ago & like you was baffled. Try Google "DeltaCAD". This will give all the info that you require. The basic package is about $40, they accept all usual cards & will post the disc to the UK. You can download a trial run at no cost. I found DeltaCAD easy to learn because it is logical & is not primarily designed to show how very clever is the software man. Once you get the hang of DeltaCAD, TurboCAD comes easier, but unless you need 3D, why bother?
Peter Gain.
Thread: Silver Soldering
18/11/2009 10:59:10

In ME, Tony Meek is currently describing the construction of his lamps for "Princess of Wales". These little gems look exquisite. BUT! Will Tony and/or others with the "know how" please describe how to clean up after silver soldering. My silver soldering results in a most unattractive blackened lump which I find nearly impossible to clean. The photographs show brass components looking pristine after silver soldering. Discuss?>>

Thread: Beginners start here in Model Engineer
17/11/2009 14:24:19
Your correspondent complains that beginners do not have mills. Suggest that he uses some initiative & mills in the lathe. Plenty of printed works to give guidance. Might as well complain that some beginners do not have lathes.
Thread: Compressed air on lathe
06/11/2009 09:31:30
Eric Cox rightly draws attention to the danger of eye injury. Also, compressed air can force swarf under & into slideways etc. not a good diet for precision machines!
Peter Gain.
Thread: Depth of cut
23/10/2009 09:19:29
Re-cheap spirit levels/lazer beams. Be aware that some of these cheap instruments may be very inaccurate. This applies what-ever the use to which they are put. (Don't ask how I know)!
Peter Gain.
18/10/2009 12:18:46
Hi Eric,
I have a Warco WM16 mill/drill which is typical of the many clones from the Far East. When used for milling, don't try to control the head accurately, use the quill. The head is brought down such that the cutter is just clear of the work. The head is then locked using the locks provided.  The quill may be lowered by a separate control to that of the head. The quill is fitted with a DRO which is surprisingly accurate. The quill
can be raised/lowered within a thou (or the metric equivalent). The WM16 column is of the box type such that the head may be raised or lowered without loosing orientation. I have no experience of the round column types which allow the head to rotate with respect to the column. Most amateur mill/drills have heads that allow drilling/milling on the slant. Spend as long as it takes ( & it can take a long time) to set the head up accurately perpendicular to the table. Then lock the adjustment & leave it there. Read Harold Hall's "Milling, A Complete Course".
Peter.
Thread: Mini Lathe and Milling Machines
15/10/2009 19:07:25
 

Hi John,

Look at Warco. Depending on your location, but if you are within reasonable driving distance of Chiddingfold it may pay you to visit their showroom. (There is an abundance of good country pubs in the area in which to enjoy a pleasant lunch after concluding a deal)! I have one of their mill/drills & find it good value & surprisingly accurate. The staff are helpful & friendly & will remedy any shortcomings should the need arise. I have also dealt with Axminster (mail order) & found them very efficient & helpful. But if you require a lathe for the pleasure of machining with it, use your best endeavours to find room for a Myford.

Peter.

Thread: Wrong type of Model
02/09/2009 14:49:59
Please will the moderator stamp out this class of rubbish and devise a method of preventing further stupidity of this nature.
Peter Gain.
Thread: Hss or Carbide Tooling?
09/08/2009 11:21:21
Hi Chris,
Refer to "Milling - A Complete Course" By Harold Hall. Construct the simple grinding rest fully described there-in. This will provide good machining practice & enable you to sharpen HSS toolsteel. Then use indexable tips for fast, rough turning follwed by HSS for fine finish. HSS will remove the merest whisper of material unlike indexable tips which do not like removing much less than a couple of thou.
Regards,
Peter Gain.
Thread: Shed insulation
07/08/2009 13:55:29
Hi Bill,
The best course of action is to buy "Workshop Construction", by Jim Forrest & Peter Jennings, Worksop Practice Series No. 23. This is an excellent book which gives all the information needed to enable you to insulate to a high standard.
I used this publication when building my 10' x 8' workshop in 2001. The shop has an 800W storage heater (not on "off peak") controlled by a 'stat which switches on when the temp drops to 5c. The storage heater outputs warmth such that the inside temp never drops below the preset 5c, ie there is no appreciable lag. This provides sufficient background heat to prevent corrosion problems. The lowest outside temp recorded was -10c. A small fan heater is used to provide comfort heating (approx. 20c) which is rapidly reached. My shop seems similar to John Ludlow's, except that I used 50mm thick poly insulation.
I used the book recommendations re-vapour barrier & insulation thickness.
Hope that this helps.
Regards,
Peter Gain.
Thread: Milling Machine Low Speed Torque
02/08/2009 11:28:55
Hi All,
Thanks for your comments.
Re-fly cutter dia. For FCMS I have been using an HSS cutter with a 3" dia & 30 thou cut @ 50rpm. I culled these recommended figures from "Vertical Milling In The Home Worshop", Arnold Throp, Workshop Practice Series No. 2.
At 30 thou cut the mill will usually stall as soon as the cutter hits the workpiece. With a 10 thou cut the machine can cope but of course the job becomes prolonged.
Having read the forum comments, the penny has dropped. Throp was writing over 30 years ago & the machines to which he refers were good quality British products that employed belts & pulleys.
I will try Has Bean's tip & run the mill at a higher speed. The attraction of fly cutting is that I can easily grind & sharpen HSS using the simple rest described by Harold Hall. For some unknown reason I do not seem to be able to get on with indexable tips. I never seem to obtain as good a finish as with HSS. (I find this with lathe tools as well).
Regards,
Peter.
 
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