Member postings for Peter Tucker

Hi Nathan,

Try using a D bit, they are reputed to drill straight. I have never used one to correct an off center hole though.

Best of luck.

Peter.

Hi Oompa Lumpa,

I make my own arbours, if you did the same you could buy something else.

Peter.

Speedy Builders said:

"Problem of using a pair of wedges (If not used in the hole of the quill) is that they can remove the chuck from the morse taper tang, leaving the tang still stuck in the quill."

This could happen with a drill chuck, however a properly manufactured milling chuck should be good.

Peter.

Hi Ronan,

If you make a pair of split wedges to fit between the spindle and chuck you will find they will extract your MT much less violently.

Peter.

I bought this magazine on the strength of the add that the full plans and build articles for "The Lynx" were contained there in, now I find that vital information is missing does this make it "not fit for purpose"? I do not expect JasonB to supply me or any of the rest of us who purchased this volume with the missing data, I think MTM are obliged to get this information to all who have paid for it.

Peter.

I have no prblem with "you lot"

Peter.

It looks like a case of fixing what isn't broken. Also we seem to have lost the "latest posts" from the middle of the front page.

Peter.

Hi Diane,

I'm very interested. Pleas put it in MEW so I can read it.

Peter.

Hi Allan,

When drilling on anangle I tend to make a flat area about the intended size of the hole with a small slot drill, also when drilling on the side of round material I start the hole with a centre drill.

Hope this helps, and good luck.

Peter.

Hi Alex,

Is it hed in with a draw bar?

Peter.

Hi Mark,

What about using a two or three mm thick steel plate, boring a 3/4" hole and mounting the dremel with it's own plastic nut.

Peter.

"You mean there is light at the end of the tunnel ??

I thought it was some bugger with a torch bringing more work................."

No The Light at the end of the tunnel is the headlight of the oncoming train.

Hi Geoff,

Be carefull of the three in one, If left on moving parts for some time it can set like varnish.

Peter.

Hi Rebekah,

One thing you may want to consider is the thread form to use. As this thread is for hydraulics dose it need to be fluid tight? A fully formed Whitworth thread is designed to be made fluid tight, the standard metric thread is not.

Best of luck in your endeavors.

Peter.

Hi Fizzy,

Full is a little over size and bare is a little under size, for example if one was out on a job and had a rule with 1/16" devisions full or bare would be not on a rule mark but no more than 1/64" away, very full and very bare are more than 1/64" from a mark but not quite 1/32". These are of course "best guese" useing the tools and materials at hand and may or not be "fit for purpose".

Hope this helps.

Peter.

Hi Richard,

I made replacement brushes an old battery carbon rod. These wher for an old power saw for nwhich brushes are no longer available. These home made brushes seemed to work fine.

Peter.

Hi Neil,>>

I have a pair of dividers with a broken spring, they have been in the "to be fixed" pile for years now your efforts have inspired me to have a go. I have some high tensile tube about an inch in diameter, this was skimmed inside and out to give a thickness just over a millimeter. The spring made from this was too soft so I hardened and tempered to just blue. This now seems to work well so I would suggest you might try some medium carbon steel rather than tool steel.>>

Best of luck with your endeavors.

Peter.

I apoligise to all for the font size I do not know how it came out so large or how to change it.

Edited By Peter Tucker on 28/04/2013 20:16:26