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Member postings for John Hinkley

Here is a list of all the postings John Hinkley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Amadeal XJ300 miller T slots
03/01/2012 12:41:36
When I bought my XJ12-300 from Amadeal, I also got a collet set. It was a "cheap" set. It does the job fine - but it's a non-standard size - a halfway between ER25 and ER32. With hindsight, I should have specified an ER25 set and paid a bit extra. Typical! Now I'm adding an ER collet set to my tooling. I agree with previous posters who warn about the additional cost of the tooling to go with your mill - it's easy to get carried away with that extra little tool you just can't live without.
Unfortunately I can't read all the posts at the top, because of the long links in David Haynes posts, so, if I've repeated something from those, I apologise.
 
Regards,
John

Edited By John Hinkley on 03/01/2012 12:41:59

02/01/2012 20:41:06
Wolfie,
 
I have one of these mills. I'm delighted with it. Rather than give you the dimensions of the tee slots, I've just measured the tee nuts themselves. Can't see how to insert anything but a jpeg picture here so I'll try something else!
 
A -------------------------- B
   I                              I
   I___ D                ___I C
           I                 I
           I                 I
           I                 I
           -------------- F
 
Phew! That took some fiddling!
A to B 18.5mm
B to C 5mm
C to D 3.5mm
D to F 7mm
Therefore, B to F (vertically, of course) 12mm
Thread is 8mm.
The slots are nominally 12mm wide.
Hope you can make sense of that!
 
Regards,
John
 

Edited By John Hinkley on 02/01/2012 20:44:49

Edited By John Hinkley on 02/01/2012 20:45:18

Edited By John Hinkley on 02/01/2012 20:45:35

Edited By John Hinkley on 02/01/2012 20:45:59

Edited By John Hinkley on 02/01/2012 20:47:15

Thread: Christmas 2011
24/12/2011 08:41:26
I heartily concur! However, I trust you mean exciting, not exiting!
 
Joyeux Noël à tous!
 
John
Thread: Interesting Articles in this months 185
11/12/2011 13:40:50
Neither have I, but it's available to view on the digital issues page, once you've logged in. The home page still says the latest issue is 184, some days behind the digital page, as usual.
John

Thread: Drill chuck removal
21/11/2011 19:25:43
Just had a quick look at the manufacturer's web site, (www.lfa-amyot.com/P03/P0313.html), refers to what I think is your chuck - a key-less auto-locking device. It bears a remarkable resemblance to one I bought for use in my lathe and mill, but mine was made in Asia. Elsewhere on the site it refers to a lefthand thread securing screw as Neil says above. So beware if you do try to remove it from the arbor.
 
Regards,
John
20/11/2011 12:33:47
Sounds like a pretty standard chuck to arbor arrangement to me. Just use a pair of wedges betwen the back of the chuck and the shoulder on the arbor. I've just bought a pair of wedges from Arc Euro Trade. They work a treat. Mind you, if the chuck has been on the B6 taper for a while it might need a fair old bit of wellie (sorry to be technical) to get it moving. Perhaps a drop of penetrating oil overnight, if it's particularly stubborn.
 
Regards,
John
 
 
Thread: AC motor wiring
19/11/2011 10:37:38
Time to wrap this one up. The boiler's been serviced and I asked the plumber/electrician how to wire up the motor. He confirmed that the two-core cable is for the capacitor and the three-core is the mains - blue (neutral), black and white are the live connections. He reckons that they will give two speeds. Well, I have connected it up this morning, using the capacitor from the motor that used to power the pillar dill and an RCD plug (just in case!) The result was a motor which runs the opposite way to what I wanted and appears from the sound alone to be at the same speed whichever lead is used (black or white). Whatever, neither problem is insurmountable and at least I've got a motor which I know can be used instead of sitting in a cupboard taking up space. Better break out the cad software and start designing a cutter/grinder!
 
Thanks to all who have responded to my original query.
 
John
 
12/11/2011 18:59:49
Les,
Yes, I'm sorry. I should have written black-WHITE-blue for the three-core cable. My mistake - put it down to age and brain-fade.
Ed's link gives a pdf file which accurately shows the motor - apparently a common driving force in many oil burners - and the wiring diagram clearly shows three wires shooting off to the control box and the other two to the capacitor. How the mains gets from the other side of the box to the motor connections is the mystery. I also saw a reference to 50V on a similar wiring diagram, but that's the only reference to it I can find, so I'm inclined to ignore it.
 
Maybe I'll connect it up to the mains, stand back and switch on. Failing that, the boiler gets its annual service next week, so I'll ask the electrician who installed the boiler originally what he thinks.
 
John
 
12/11/2011 11:30:41
Ed,
Thanks for your lead, too. Unfortunately, I run up against the same old problem - the three "mains" wires go to a "black box" and the mains supply comes in somewhere else. What happens in between is a bit of a black art. Surely I can just wire the blessed thing up to the mains direct, and whack a capacitor on the other two? But which wire goes where?
 
I've changed the battery in the multimeter and the resistance values for the respective pairs are as follows:
Brown to red (almost certainly the capacitor connections) 128 ohm
Black to blue 35 ohm
Black to white 13 ohm, and
Blue to white 28 ohm
 
Does that help? If not, I think I'll use the motor from the spare pillar drill and crank the speed up with the pulleys.
(I should have explained that the grinder I'm intending to make will be a much simplified version, initially just to regrind end mills, which are horrendously expensive out here and cost a lot to import by post or courier from the UK.)
 
John

 
11/11/2011 19:59:39
Ian,
 
Thanks for the lead. One manual shows what certainly looks like my motor and has a wiring diagram, to boot. Unfortunately, the three-core wires just "disappear" into a control box, so I'm none the wiser about what to connect to what , although I'm almost 99% sure now that the spade connectors are for the capacitor. I'll keep trawling the internet.
 
John

11/11/2011 19:26:25
Thanks for all the replies, so far. I have uploaded a photo to my album. Additional information is as follows:
Length of motor 11cm
Diameter (excluding mounting lugs) 10cm
Rated power 90W
The photo was taken with flash and the part of the label you can't read says:
RHE 0932
R.B.L. 603SE (I believe this to be a manufacturer's reference.)
0117
220/230V ....
On the box is the name RIELLO, through which I can get to a French web site that sells the very motor, but gives no further details.
I tried to take some resistance readings, but I think the battery in my multimeter is giving up the ghost, so I won't give the readings until I've replaced it, tomorrow. Suffice to say, comparatively, the resistance between the red and brown wires, is higher, by a factor of 5, than that between the black-blue and blue-white, while the resistance between the black and white is lower still. I'm not sure whether that helps, or muddies the waters even more.
 
Finally, for today, the motor runs a fan, and drives the oil pump, which runs at the impressive pressure of 14 bar. Yes, 14 bar! So, I would have thought it could cope with a grind wheel!
 
Thanks again,
 
John
 
11/11/2011 13:51:49
Here's a question for all you electricians out there.
I have acquired a (brand new) 230V, 50/60 Hz AC electric motor. The plate on it states its speed as 2750 to 3300 rpm. It was bought to replace the broken one in my oil-fired central heating boiler - but turned out to be the wrong! However, it occurred to me that it would be ideal as a source of power for a cutter/grinder tool of the Quorn/Bonelle variety. Problem is, there are two cables coming out of the body: one three-core, black, blue and red, terminating in a plastic multi-way connector. (I assume this to be the mains connections) and the other is two-core, brown and red, with spade connectors, presumably for a capacitor. The boiler manual is no help. Can anybody help with wiring it up, please?
 
John
Thread: Tee-slotted cross-slide query
20/10/2011 08:26:58
Neil,
I very much appreciate the time and trouble you have taken to supply all these details. As I said in my last post, the cost of the basic material, plus the airmail costs are too prohibitive for what is basically a machine exercise, so it's going on the back burner until I win the lottery (tonight!). Add in the extra cost of tee-slot cutters and end mills etc and the freight costs, and I might as well buy new!
Thanks,
John
 
19/10/2011 16:21:27
Steve,
The only reason I have for wanting to make my own was, as you so rightly point out, for the pleasure of making it. Unfortunately, I've just got the quote for supply and delivery and it comes to over £60! That makes it economically not viable as a "fun" project. I'll stick to the cross slide I've got and think of something else to make.
Thanks to all of you who have replied with support and suggestions.
 
John

18/10/2011 20:15:58
Hi, all,
I've decided to fabricate one from Meehanite (awaiting a quote from College Engineering). Can anyone tell me the spacing of the tee slots on (dare I say it) a Myford ML7, please. I'd like to make it compatible with various accessories. Sorry, forgot to say, I'm all metric.
 
John

Thread: Milling Machine
13/10/2011 19:15:34
You could do a lot worse than what I did - that's buy an XJ12-300 from Amadeal. They are still quoting £412 inc VAT, which is what I paid a long while ago. You very much get what you pay for, does exactly what it says on the pallet and, in my humble opinion is an excellent machine for the beginner at a reasonable price. Be prepared to pay pretty much the same again for tools, clamps, vice, etc,etc ............
Usual disclaimer - just a satisfied customer.
 
John
 
Thread: Setting up a bandsaw
05/10/2011 10:18:57
Thanks, again, to all who have responded. I downloaded the Grizzly manual and, although its not exactly the same as mine, there are enough similarities for me to make the necessary adjustments, I'm sure.
Regards to all,
John
04/10/2011 19:57:58
Thanks, one and all, for your input. I tried slackening off the blade tension a tad, as it felt like it would break if I didn't. Result - the blade fell off! However, on remounting it, I did find that it wiggled like a snake as it made its way past the guide rollers etc. So, I think I'll take it to bits tomorrow and see if I can't align everything properly and get it to cut a bit more accurately.
 
John

04/10/2011 13:42:39
On a recent trip to the UK, I picked up a new Warco CY90 bandsaw that I had ordered online and had delivered to my son-in-law's house. I didn't have time to check it out before setting of for home and didn't discover, until I unpacked it, that the 'manual' was written in "Chinglish" and the photos accompanying the setting-up description were completely illegible. I have worked out how to adjust everything, but, no matter what I do, the damn thing won't cut a straight line!
Anybody got any ideas or tips on setting blade guides etc, so that it will make a vertical cut?
John

Thread: Newbie in France Needs Help
09/09/2011 19:51:21
Versaboss,
Thanks for the useful link. I tried a couple of items, just out of interest. For example, a bandsaw, exactly the same as sold by Warco - about £80 to £90 more expensive from Otelo (depending on the £/€ exchange rate) and at the other end of the scale, a 25mm dia. tee-slot cutter, around twice the price of the equivalent from the UK - or China via eBay, even.
 
Weary (Phil),
That site is for steamers. Of no interest to me at all, I'm afraid.
 
Regards,
John

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